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BULBS AND ORCHIDS AS POT PLANTS 
Bulbs and orchids are most desirable as pot plants. They may be grown in 
the living room, kitchen, a light basement room or in a small greenhouse quite 
as well as in a large commercial greenhouse. 
The following bulbs are recommended for growing or forcing in pots. 
Agapanthus, Amarcrinum, Amaryllis, Clivias, Crinums, (rather large and require 
space), Elisena, Habranthus, Haemanthus, (especially Katherinae and next 
coccineus), famous Blood Lilies of South Africa, Ismenes, Nerines, Sprekalia, 
Tulbaghia. All the above are in Amaryllis family. Then there are the Marica, 
Orchids, Oxalis, all the Araceae including Zantedeschia or Calla Lilies, Amor- 
phophallus, Arums, Sauromatum and Fancy Leaf Caladiums; also Gloxinias, 
Achimines, Saintpaulias, Tuberous Begonias and Billbergias. 
Nearly all bulbs may be grown in pots. Crinums do well but require large 
pots and a wide space for the foliage. Crinum Cecil Houdyshel will often give a 
half dozen or more scapes of flowers scattered thruout the year. It would 
probably require a space of two feet on every side and an 18” tub for top size 
bulb. 
POTTING DIRECTIONS 
Bulbs bloom better in pots that are not too large. A 2144” Amaryllis will do 
well in a 6” or 7” pot. Many use a 5” size but I prefer to give as large a pot as 
will be favorable to flowering. Give larger or smaller bulbs of any sort, pots in 
proportion to this size, that is, 2 or 3 times the diam. of bulb. Small bulbs may be 
planted 2” or 3” apart in any size pot. 
Most large bulbs, like Amaryllis, may have 2/3 of bulb above surface but 
small bulbs, especially Anemones and Ranunculus, should be covered about 1”. 
Use clean pots. It is advisable to boil and scrub the surface. Even new clay 
pots should be boiled, or soaked for two days to remove chemicals. Cover the 
hole at bottom with a piece of broken pot, concave side down. Above this place 
small pieces of broken pot and gravel. This helps to drain away excess water. 
The drainage must be perfect and it is essential that the soil above this 
drainage be of a friable texture that permits water to pass thru freely. 
The best soil is a rich sandy loam with the addition of plenty of humus. For 
humus one can combine rotted leaf mould and old rotted dairy manure well 
broken up and rubbed thru a screen of smallest gauge. For most plants the 
proportion can be 2/3 sandy loam, 1/3 humus. 
Fertilizers. Many advise the addition of fertilizer to potting soils. We never 
use any except the rotted dairy manure and leaf mould and sometimes a table- 
spoon of bone meal. If new roots come into contact with much fertilizer they are 
burned. Commercial fertilizer is especially a hazard. When the plants have become 
well rooted and have made a good top growth, most of them will be helped by 
using liquid manure. Cover manure with water and allow to settle. Pour off water 
and dilute further until it is a very light amber, the color of weak tea. This can 
be used about every two weeks but don’t use it on dry soil and thirsty plants. 
Sun exposure. Note requirements of plants under listings. For full sun, use a 
south window. For half sun use an east or west window and add a thin curtain 
if it proves too much. For Clivias and others requiring full shade or only a little 
filtered sunlight, use a north window or place on a stand at a distance from 
window, but always give plenty of light and good ventilation, especially in gas 
heated rooms. 
Temperature. Most bulbs root better in-a cool room of 45°. There must not 
be too much water given while roots are starting as it may cause bulbs to rot 
even when cool. When a bud or foilage shows that growth has started, gradually 
bring the temperature to about 70° and water a little more. The best temperatures 
for plants vary. Some like more warmth than others. This is indicated in the 
special culture directions for these plants. 
Probably more failures in forcing bulbs result from starting the. forcing 
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