FISCHER'S NUBRSER 
Box 36 
BAKERSTOWN, PA. 

iced ae 
4 JAN191949 

U.S. Department of Agriculture 

Phone Gibsonia 323-R at Nursery 

TRANSPLANTING DIRECTIONS 
In presenting these instructions to our patrons, we would earnestly request that they give 
the most careful attention to the details. 
They have been compiled with a view to making them 
as simple as possible; and, have fulfilled our part of the contract by delivering first-class stock 
in good condition. This stock will give entire satisfaction if properly planted and cared for. Im: 
proper planting will kill it and 1ack of care will prevent proper growth. Close attention to the 
following instructions will mean all the difference between success and failure. We allude to this 
because years of experience have taught us that the public lose nursery stock because they 
neglect it. : 
CARE OF STOCK 
' The bundles should be opened immedictely, the” 
roots dipped in water, then heeled up in moist ground 
so that the mellow earth will come in contact with 
the roots and thoroughly protect them from the air, 
having the earth tramped solid about them. 
*’When ready to plant, take up only a few at a 
‘time, puddle the roots in liquid mud, and do not 
allow them to lie exposed to the sun or air. 
The ground should be carefully prepared by deep 
plowing and firming down with a disc and harrow. 
PLANTING 
The holes for planting must be large enough to 
receive the roots freely, without cramping or bend- 
ing them from their natural position. All broken or 
mutilated portions of the roots must be cut off so 
as to leave the ends smooth and sound. All trees 
should be planted two or three inches deeper than 
they stood in the nursery row; pack the soil very 
firmly about the roots by tamping with the feet or 
post tamper, being careful not to bark or break the 
roots. Leave three inches of the surface soil loose 
to serve as a mulch. If the ground is very dry apply 
one to two pails of water before this soil mulch is in 
. place, and after the water has soaked away it can 
then be placed over the moist soil. 
$ a MULCHING 
«Unless thorough surface cultivation will be prac- 
ticed during the summer a mulch should be applied. 
_. This may be a layer of coarse manure or vegetable 
matter around the trees three to six inches deep, 
and extending out from the trees three or five feet. 
Mulching protects the soil against the sun and dry- 
ing winds; against alternate freezing and thawing, 
and provides some plant food. 
PRUNING 
The pruning of trees should begin when they are 
planted. The transplanting of a tree marks a very 
critical point of its life history, and to neglect care- 
ful and proper methods of planting and pruning at 
that time is to invite disaster or, at least, unsatis- 
factory returns from one’s efforts. 
Apple and Pear—Select from three to five of the 
branches to form the permanent head of the tree. 
These branches should be well distributed around 
the trunk, and at safe distance apart up and down 
the trunk. Shorten these selected branches to about 
five buds, cutting the branches just above a bud that 
points outward. Remove ail the other branches 
close to the trunk, leaving no stub longer than one- 
eighth to one-quarter inch. Also shorten back two- 
thirds the central leader of the tree, if one exits, 
else the tree assumes a too upright growth for best 
results in later life. 
Peach Trees—These should be planted immediately 
on their delivery, or if not prepared to do so, the 
roots should be buried in the ground; they will not 
stand exposure to sun and air, and many are lost 
simply for want of care. As soon as planted, cut 
back all side branches to within two or three inches 
of the main stem. Make this the invariable practice, 
and never deviate from it if you wish to save your 
trees. The growth will be much more rapid and 
vigorous in consequence of this pruning, and by 
« 
strictly adhering to it, and by immediately planting, 
or my arey the roots in the soil, very few, if any, 
trees will be lost. 
Cherry—Five or six good limbs, well distributed 
around the trunk will be sufficient to form a well 
balanced top. The limbs left after pruning should 
not be cut back as severely as recommended for 
some other classes. 
Plum—Cut back all branches to about two or three 
buds. After the tree has grown for a year, remove 
all but four or five branches, but do not cut these 
back. These limbs will form the permanent frame- 
work for the top and subsequent growth may be 
prones to meet the requirements or taste of the 
planter. 
SMALL FRUITS 
Gooseberries and Currants—Prepare the ground 
by deep plowing or spading. Cut the plants back 
fully one-half. Plant four feet apart both ways. 
same depth as plants stood in the nursery row, anGé 
firm soil well. 
Blackberries, Raspberries, Dewberries — These 
should be set fairly deep, except one-year-old rasp- 
berry plants, the new growth of which starts from 
the crown in the mass of hair-like roots; these 
should be planted shallow, with the crown not more 
than one inch below the surfaec. Too deep plant- 
ing is often fatal to one-year-old raspberry plants. 
Plant in rows five or six feet apart, with plants three 
to four feet apart in the row. Firm the dirt around 
each plant. Keep surface of ground loose. Water 
in dry weather during growing season. Mulch in winter 
after the ground is frozen. 
Strawberries—Plants should be set and cared for 
the same as tomato and cabbage plants. Plant in 
rows three to three and one-half feet apart and 

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twelve to fifteen inches in a row. The cheapest way 
to grow them is to plant in long rows and tend with 
a corn plow, using shields. Never allow rows to 
spread to more than eight or ten inches in width. 
Cover the plants late in the fall with one or two 
inches of prairie hay or stable litter (if free from 
weed seed.) This covering should be removed from 
the plants in early spring and left between the rows 
until the fruit is picked, then it should be removed 
from the patch and the rows cultivated the samé 
as before. 
