TRANSPLANTING DIRECTIONS 3 
be heeled-in deep (buried) in moist, loose earth, 
waiting time to plant. In planting they should be 
set two or three inches deeper than they stood in the 
nursery in a deep, rich, well drained soil. All bud- 
ded roses should be planted with the junction of 
the bud and the original stock at least two inches 
below the surface. This junction is shown by the 
stub left where the original stock has been cut back. 
If the soil is dry it is well to plant the roses solidly, 
then wet thoroughly and after the water has soaked 
away, throw up a small mound of earth five or six 
inches high around the plant. Then cut off the 
branches about one inch above the mound, leaving 
it this way for ten days or two weeks, or until the 
buds start and show a desire to grow, when the dirt 
mound can be raked down. Roses handled in this 
way hardly ever fail to make a good start and a very 
satisfactory growth. They should be severely pruned 
every spring before the buds start, cutting back the 
last growth to three or four buds, except Climbing 
Roses, which may first be allowed to partly cover 
the space desired. Old, decayed branches should 
never remain. Hvery Autumn compost should be 
placed around the stems of the plants, and spaded 
into the ground the following Spring. 
BULBS, ROOTS AND PERENNIALS 
Prepare the ground by deep spading, twelve to 
eighteen inches, and work it into a well cies 
vondition. 
Peonies—Should be set with the crown two to 
three inches below the surface of the ground. Plant 
two to two and one-half feet apart. Mulch heavily 
after the ground is frozen and remove mulch in the 
spring. 
Iris—Should be set with the crown two inches be- 
low the surface. Plant twelve inches apart. Mulch 
as for Peonies. 
Phlox—Set the crown one inch under the surface 
and spread out the roots. Firm well. Mulch in 
winter. Water in summer. Plant twelve inches 
apart. Gaillardia, Delphinium, Platycodon and other 
poreo nes should be planted about like Iris and 
ox. 
BULBS—OUT-DOOR CULTURE 
Fall is the proper time for planting Hyacinths, Cro- 
cuses, Tulips and Narcissus, not in the spring. Let 
the soil be dug to the depth of 18 inches, thoroughly 
pulverized, and if the soil is poor, enrich with thor- 
oughly decomposed manure; if the soil is too close or 
heavy, mix some sand with it and thoroughly in- 
corporate the whole. When covered with half rotted 
manure this will sufficiently enrich the soil. The best 
covering is leaves or half decayed manure—never 
rotten manure, as it excludes light and air. By ex- 
cessive covering, many buibs are annually lost. 
Cover them from two to four inches, after the ground 
is frozen two or three inches deep. This will help 
to secure the bulbs from the depredation of mice and 
other vermin. It is not the freezing that kills, but 
the continued thawing and freezing, thus lifting the 
bulbs to the surface of the ground. As soon as the 
coldest weather is over the covering may be removed. 
When the blooming season is past, pinch off all the 
flower stems allowing the bulbs to remain until the 
leaves are yellow. If the beds are wanted for bed- 
ding plants, take up the bulbs and re-plant them 
very thickly in any vacant spot, allowing them to 
remain until the foliage is decayed ; then place each 
one in sand, putting them away until fall planting. 

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HYACINTHS IN GLASSES 
Nothing more easy, more fragrant, or will more 
richly reward the grower than the Hyacinth. First 
let your glasses be thoroughly cleaned, then fill 
them with water; the base of the bulb just and bare- 
ly touching the water; place them carefully away for 
three or four weeks in a dark closet. Then you will 
find that the roots have nearly filled the glass; 
bring them to the light gradually. Avoid placing 
them on the window ledge, as the cold draughts 
chill the roots; neither expose to the full sun, but 
keep them in a room of moderate temperature, with 
plenty of light and air. As the water evaporates, 
fill up with water at the same temperature as the 
room. Never change the water unless it becomes 
tainted, neither use cotton or other fidfads. The 
simpler the treatment, the more certain of success. 
SHADE TREES 
Ornamentals—Dig holes large enough to accommo- 
date all roots without bending or cramping. Fill the 
hole with good top dirt and firm it hard. Wher 
the hole is three-fourths full, allow a bucket or more 
of water to seep away around the roots, after which 
the hole may be entirely filled. It is well to mulch 
the tree immediately to prevent drying out. Prune 
all limbs back to five or seven good buds, even 
though the appearance of the tree is impaired by 
such treatment. Water trees during the summer 
months and give them plenty of attention until they 
have become well established. Large sizes of shade 
trees can often be stalked to advantage until their 
roots have obtained good anchorage in the soil. 
EVERGREENS 
These should be planted extremely solid, but be 
sure that all vacancies under the pronged roots are 
well filled with soil first, then press or tramp the soil 
leaving two inches of the goil loose to prevent bak- 
ing and to take in the rainfall. Be careful never te 
expose the roots to the sun and air long enough to 
dry them in the least, and if necessary to water 
them, it is better to dig a hole by the side of the 
tree one foot deep and water them through the hole. 
This applies to the watering of all trees. Better to 
water two or three pailfulls at a time in seven or 
eight days, as needed, than to pour water on the 
surface, which often does more harm than good, by 
crusting the surface and attracting the roots up- 
ward for moisture, instead of downward. Mulch with 
old hay or chaff, throw a little soil on the mulching 
and it will look better and will be more effective. 
HEvergreens should be watered during a drought in 
mid-summer or fall as well as spring. The ground 
should be filled with water at the approach of winter 
and then mulched. They do not need the above 
care after the first year. After planting protect ever- 
greens in yard by placing a screen about each to 
keep dogs away. 
Where evergreens are received with a solid ball of 
earth about the roots, cut the strings attached to the 
burlap and canvas and fold back under the roots, 
but do not disturb the earth about the roots. The 
burlap can either be cut away or left under the plant 
as it will soon rot away. 

Always remove the straw 
and moss from the pack 
age before planting. Never 
put manure so as to come 
in contact with the roots 
of any plant or tree. Use 
only good soil on and 
around the roots. 
The foregoing has been 
prepared with the greatest 
care, and with a special 
desire to aid our customers 
in the growth and care %7% 
their stock. 


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