growth below the green leaf base. Some bromels are climbers and 
prefer hanging on to the edge of the pot. A tight soil makes firm 
roots. Moving or repotting does not set them back They can be re- 
potted or moved at any time of the season even just before the 
flowering period without retarding the flowering. 
Do NOT take it upon yourself to fertilize bromeliads except with 
pulverized or liquid cow manure at great intervals or occasionally 
with hyponex. 
When you obtain a bromeliad and you are sure that you have 
the proper potting medium, place it in a red clay pot making sure 
that several crocks have been placed over the hole in the clay pot to 
insure adequate drainage. Then place the clay pot inside a glazed 
jardiniere. 
In most bromeliads the mother plant eventually dies, one to three 
years after blooming. But in the meantime the plant may have put 
out several side shoots which, after they attain the height of about 
six inches at more or less six months of age, they can be cut off and 
potted on their dwn. However, a cluster of bromeliads makes a very 
nice decoration, so you may allow the shoots to remain and remove 
the older plant when it ceases to look nice. 
Any scale insect either black or white that may appear on the 
leaves, just push off with the fingernail or tooth brush. This may be 
a sign that the plant needs more light, so rotate your bromeliads. 
Most bromeliads do not like an oil spray, All of our plants have 
been sprayed with Parathion and are insect free. 
As in all plants there is constant process of growing new leaves 
and shedding old ones. If dry leaves appear at the bottom of the 
plant don’t be alarmed... consider them like one does fingernails; 
they need trimming now and then. But if dry leaves appear in the 
center that is a sign of being too dry and more frequent watering 
should be done. 
Bromeliads like cool nights, but of course, not freezing. 
Whenever it is possible during the summer months bromeliads’ 
would enjoy being out in the shade under a tree so as to catch the 
summer rains. 
Bromeliads do not make appreciable signs of growth by other 
plant growth standards. They grow from the center leaves and some- 
times you may be almost unaware of their increase. The additional 
new leaves come but they are not fresh new green leaves ... they 
are tough, mature leaves quite unlike the new growth on philoden- 
dron or any of the common house plants. 
Bromeliads are primarily foliage plants and have a way of being 
thrilling in form and color even without the bloom appearing but 
when they do bloom you really have a “double feature.” The big 
show in color of bromeliad flowers appears in the bracts of the flow- 
er stem. They are thrilling, different and a new plant experience. 
No matter what other delightful attributes the bromeliads have 
over other plants or share in equal glory with other plants... there 
is one characteristic which distinguishes bromeliads from all other 
house plants ... most of them can successfully be used as a living 
vase. The idea of a live, growing, self-producing flower vase at- 
tracts the attention of even the most experienced flower grower. 
This IS something new. Small cut flowers are placed between the 
leaves where the water is held. This forms an exceptionally novel 
flower feature and gives the observer really something to talk about. 
