SOME NOTES ON CULTURE 
POMPON DAHLIAS do best in a sunny spot, in well-drained soil, with plenty 
of bumus in it. Any reasonable fertile soil, not too heavy, will grow nice Poms, but 
well-rotted manure, or leaf mold, or lacking these, a tablespoon of Vigoro spaded 
into soil under the tuber, will pay dividends. We plant between April 15 and May 1, 
but in cold dry climates, later planting is usually necessary, as all danger of frost 
should be past. Too, dahlias are essentially fall flowers, and the hot summer sun 
is not conducive to good bloom. 
Plant tuber on its side, about 6 inches deep, with eye up. Staking Pompons is not 
usually necessary, except for the taller varieties. However, if no protection from 
wind is afforded, it might be well to stake all but the lowest growing ones, in which 
case drive stake first, and lay tuber with eye next to stake. Cover with about 2 inches 
of soil, and continue filling the hole after dahlia comes up, thus eliminating weeds. 
Do not water when planting. 
In our coast climate, watering is not usually necessary till the first flowers show. 
When watering, soak the soil thoroughly, preferably by the ditch method, or using 
a soil soaker, rather than sprinkling. 
Dig clumps in the fall, after the first killing frost, usually around November 1. 
If no frost by the middle of November, dig anyway, first cutting off plant three or 
four inches above ground. Be very careful in digging, not to break the necks of the 
tubers. With a spade, cut the soil completely around the clump, thus cutting all long 
roots, and loosening the soil, before attempting to lift clump. Dry clump in sun for 
several hours, and store in cool but frost-free, dry place. Some store in dry sand, 
some in peat moss, and some just use newspapers around clump in ordinary boxes. 
Inspect occasionally during winter to be sure the clumps are not rotting. 
In the spring, when the sprouts begin to show, cut clump up, using sharp knife and 
clippers, leaving one or more eyes on each tuber, and being very careful not to break 
either the necks of tubers or the sprouts. Sprouts or eyes are usually on the extreme 
end of tuber, or even on the old stalk, in which case it is necessary to leave a piece 
of stalks attached to the tuber. Cut off all long roots and any rotten spots, dusting 
with ordinary garden sulphur any large cut places. 
MINIATURE GLADIOLUS require the same culture as the larger Glads, namely 
full sun, good soil, and plenty of water. We like a soil composed largely of leaf mold 
or compost. Plant in groups or in rows, 4 to 5 inches deep, and give plenty of water 
when buds start to form. 
BABY GLADIOLUS are planted in the fall, in October or November, 4 to 5 inches 
deep. They need full sun and soil that is VERY WELL-DRAINED and not too 
heavy. We use no fertilizer for either type of gladiolus, preferring heavy applications 
each year of leaf mold or compost. 
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