
How? When? HOME GARDENING e76}/2]53 Where? Why? 
Vegetable Seed Culture 
There's no end to the science of vegetable gardening—nor to the books that have 
been written about this fascinating subject. 
But if you haven't the time to read 
all the books, then try the brief paragraphs that follow. Here are the fundamental 
facts—the things.every vegetable gardener should know—AND DO! y 
ASPARAGUS 
Soak seed 24 hrs. before planting. Sow 
in loose, rich, moist soil after weather 
warms up. Thin to stand 6” apart. In 
early spring, set in permanent position, 
24" apart, in rows 20” apart. Set in hole 
so that crown is 8’ below surface, but 
only cover tips with 3’ of soil. As plants 
grow, fill in until level. Don't cut first 
year after setting. 
SNAP BEANS 
Don't plant until the weather is warm and 
settled. 
Sow beans in bottom of 3” to 4” furrow, 
24” between rows, but do not fill in with 
more than 114" of soil over seeds. Thin to 
stand 4” to 6” apart in row. Bean seed- 
lings are likely to be slowed up pushing 
through heavy soil. In such soils, cover 
seeds with mixture of half sand and half 
soil, or sand and peat or any other loose, 
light material that will allow seedlings 
to break through easily. 
Make successive sowings every 2-3 
weeks. Don't cultivate beans when wet: 
this may spread disease. 
BUSH LIMA BEANS 
Plant two weeks later than bush snap 
beans, when soil is warm. Space rows 
24" apart; otherwise follow instructions 
for snap beans, 
POLE BEANS and POLE LIMAS 
Both these should be planted two weeks 
after bush beans. Rough poles set 3 feet 
apart should be used. Anchor well, as 
heavy beanvines blow over easily. Some- 
times three poles set to form a tepee are 
used and several seeds planted around 
each tepee, 
SPECIAL NOTE ON ALL BEANS. 
—Two scientific facts about beans will 
help produce better crops. First, being 
legumes, they should be inoculated with 
special legume culture listed in supply 
section. This enables plants to manufac- 
ture their own nitrogen from the air. 
Second, bud drop of the tiny flowers (even 
before they can be easily seen) cuts the 
‘early set of pods. By spraying with a fruit 
setting spray these buds are held on and 
the early crop increased by as much as 
100 per cent. BEETS 
Each “seed” is a fruit with several true 
seeds. No matter how thinly beets are 
sown, they will need thinning. Plant as 
soon as ground can be worked in spring, 
thin gradually (use thinnings as greens) 
until roots stand 3’’ apart. Make three 
sowings, one early, one three weeks lat- 
er and one 60 days before fall, 
BRUSSELS SPROUTS 
Grow like late cabbage, but don't use 
CABBAGE, —“——™ 
Copenhagen Market 
until after heads have matured. 
CARROTS 
Pick carrots when they are the size of 
your little finger for sweetest flavor. They 
can also be left to grow to maturity for 
storage. When harvesting always remove 
alternate carrots to give space to the re- 
maining ones, 
EARLY CABBAGE — COLLARDS 
Start plants inside, Set out 12” x 24” as 
soon as weather is settled. Dusting with 
D.D.T, is safe if outer leaves are discard- 
ed, since plant grows from the inside 
out. LATE CABBAGE 
Direct-seed four months before crop is 
wanted, Or start plants indoors 30 days 
before needed, transplanting outdoors 90 
days before frost. Don't water freely when 
heads are nearly filled, as this promotes 
splitting; irrigate only enough to keep 
plants growing well. 
CELERY 
Start in hotbed 60 days before needed. 
In setting outdoors, don’t get soil in or 
over crown. Set 7’ to 12” apart. Soil 
must be rich, moist and loose. As soon 
as plants have grown to 14” to 15” tall, 
set 12’ boards on both sides of row and 
hold in place with earth. Or 4” drain tile 
can be used to blanch individual stalks. 
Celery must have warm, settled weather: 
if chilled, plants are likely to go to seed. 
CHINESE CABBAGE 
Must never be grown as a spring crop 
since it will only go to seed. Plant after 
June 15, as days are getting shorter, then 
it will head. An excellent succession 
crep to follow early peas, 
Zucchini - 

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