KERR-LANGEN SEED CO. 
JANUARY AND FEBRUARY GARDEN GUIDE 
SPRAYING. It is essential during these two months to catch up with pruning and 
spraying on fruit trees, roses and all shrubs which drop their foliage during winter. 
At tnis time of year stronger sprays can be used than any other time. Many diseases 
and insects which carry over during the winter can now be eliminated, thus avoiding 
much ef next spring and summer's garden troubles. In order to obtain best possible 
ecntrol we give you a formula whicn should give the maximum control possible in a 
winter spray. The amount of each material listed is for each gallon of water. 
4 Tablespoons C. O. C. S. Copper, 1 Tablespoon Niagara D.D.T. 50% W., 
b Tablespoons Oil, 1 Teaspoon Black Leaf 40. 
This formula should control peach leaf curl and many other diseases and insects. It 
should readily flow through the average home garden spray equipment without clogging 
‘he nozzle. For the average garden we thoroughly recommend the type of sprayer 
which attaches to the end cf the garden hose. We have them with three gallon and six 
gallon capacity, light to handle, even for a woman, and the water company does the 
pumping. lf normal care is given this type of sprayer it makes spraying a pleasure 
instead of a chore. Remember, to control peach leaf curl the control (copper) must be 
on the tree at the time the leaf buds open. If the control is not on at that time 
the chances are peach trees will have leaf curl. Avoid spraying just before a rain as 
this washes off some of the materials. The minimum application should be once in 
January and again in February. 
SPECIAL SEEDS. Again, we hope to receive a supply of the world renowned Blackmore 
and Langdon tuberous begonia seed. Many of our customers reported gcod luck with it 
last year. One lady told us she had 210 seedlings from a one-dollar packet. They can 
be started in the kitchen or in the wash room provided the temperature-does not fall 
below 45 degrees. A 65-degree day-time temperature should give germination in about 
ten days. Use well rotted leaf mold for a planting mixture. Cover the pot with paper 
until germination starts. Water very carefully and not too generously. Transplant to 
a flat placing plants about two inches apart each way in a mixture of two parts well 
rotted leaf mold and one part sand. 
BULBS. We have booked Tuberous Begonia bulbs of the famous Antonelli strain for 
those who prefer to grow them from tubers. Do not start the bulbs until they show 
little growth sprouts. Naturally the warmer the temperature the quicker the bulbs will 
start. However, don't try to force them. A warm garage is an ideal place to store 
Beg¥nia bulbs. After the bulbs have started place them in damp peat moss. Water 
gently overhead with a spray bulb. Your plants should be ready to set out doors about 
the end of April. February is a grand month to plant Gladioli. Our bulbs are all num- 
ber one and we have a beautiful selection of colors. When planting cushion the bulbs 
in sand. Plant about four inches-deep. Those of you who have Gladioli bulbs stored 
over winter, sprinkle the bulbs with naphthalene flakes and Niagara 50% W.D.D.T. This 
confrols thrips and other insects. 
VEGETABLE SEEDS. All of the half hardy annual vegetables can be started indoors 
during January and February. A six-inch pot of Tomato will give all the plants neces- 
sary for the average family. Use a good potting mixture, one part leaf mold or peat, 
one part sharp sand and one part good garden soil Start in the kitchen or porch or 
garage, just to make sure the pots are protected from frost. Start your own Tomato, Pep- 
per, and Egg plant and be sure you get the variety you want. This really makes vege- 
table gardening interesting. 
Many other vegetables can be sown directly outdoors during January and February 
:n a well drained situation. Naturally shallow planting is the rule at this time of year. 
Plant now Beet, Carrot, Endive, or Escarolle, Kohl Rabi, Leek, Lettuce, Mustard, Onion, 
Parsley, Parsnip, Peas, Radish, Salsify, Spinch, Swiss Chard and Turnip. All of these 
vegetables will survive the average frosts experienced in California. The important 
thing is to be sure to plant KERR-LANGEN SEEDS. We admit blushingly they are the 
world's best. Treat your seed with Spergon to prevent rot from possible excessive 
moisture. 
FLOWER SEEDS. Many flower seeds can also be planted directly outdoors now. The 
hardy annuals love the cold and the moisture and will not give the maximum perform- 
ance unless they flower during May, June, July. In other words they start to “‘go back’’ 
as soon as the really warm weather starts. Such things as Alyssum, Antirrhinum, Bache- 
lor‘'s Button, Calendula, Candytuft, Chieranthus, (Siberian Wallflower), Clarkia, Dianthus, 
(Various Pinks), Eschscholtzia (California Poppy), Gypsophila, Larkspur, Linaria (Love- 
in-a-Mist), Mattholia (Evening Scented Stock), Migonette, Nemophila (Baby Blue Eyes), 
Nemesia, Stocks, Schizanthus, Virginian Stock, Wallflower, and many others. Final plant- 
ing of Sweetpeas should be meade during January. At this time of year try the Cuthbert- 
son type. They are more heat resistant than the standard types. Refer to our November- 
December guide for planting instructions for Sweetpeas. It will pay you to follow them. 
Garden peas are a winter planting item also. Get them planted as soon as possible. 
The pole types yield much more heavily than the bush. Trench them exactly like we 
suggested for Sweetpeas if you want a larger yield. 
PERENNIAL VEGETABLES. It is now time to plant perennial vegetables such as 
Asparagus, Rhubarb and Artichokes. As they are long lived items, ground preparation is 
ot first importance as it affects the growth of the plants for many years. While on this 
subject it is good practice to give special consideration to the planting of all new items 
in your garden. Unless you are particularly fortunate in the native soil in your garden 
it is necessary to prepare ahead for fruit trees, roses, camelias and all other long living 
plants and trees. A general rule is to dig a hole at least twice the size of the roots 
of the new plant. Into this hole put a mixture of the following in equal parts: leaf mold, 
peat moss, sand, soil, well rotted manure plus a handful each of soil sulphur and bone 
meal. If insects, such as centipedes, nematodes, wire worms, etc., are suspected treat 
the prepared hole with Shell D.D. This is an excellent soil fumigant for the elimination 
of soil insects. All this preparation should take place at least ten days before planting. 
The plants then have a favorable home to start new roots and growth long before they 
encounter the native soil and are usually acclimated by this time. 
