ATTENTION! 
Care of Fruit Trees on Arrival 
Dwarfs and Espaliers 
Trees are frequently ruined by lack of care, of bad managing 
after they fall into the hands of the purchaser. We have known 
them to lie for days tied up in a bundle just as received from the 
nursery, Or exposed to sun and wind and then set out. With such 
treatment they cannot be expected to live when one hour's time 
would have them buried in the ground and placed them beyond 
danger. 95% of trees fail thru improper planting. 
Plant trees immediately upon arrival. Unpack trees without 
exposing the roots to cold air, winds or sun, The roots should be 
covered with a wet blanket or straw until they reach their proper 
placing. If the roots become dried from too long exposure, straw 
should be spread on the ground and the trees laid upon it, then 
cover the roots and tops with straw, and the whole well watered. 
In this condition, they should remain for 48 hours when they will 
be found fresh as they were in the nursery. 
If trees are frozen when received, don’t unwrap the bale, but 
place them in the cellar or some cool, dark room that is frost free 
and let them remain until all frost is drawn out, usually from 
36-48 hours. If no cellar or frost proof room, bury the bundle in 
sawdust or dirt until thawed. The point is to get the frost entirely 
out without the sudden exposure of shock to the heat, light and air. 
Even if frozen solid, the stock will not be injured if handled in 
this manner, 
THE HEELING-IN TRENCH—If unable to plant trees when 
received because of weather or unpreparedness, dig a trench deep 
enough to take roots comfortably and located where the ground is 
moist, well drained and pulverized. Open the bundle so that you 
can put the trees or plants in the trench one at a time; lean the 
bodies of the trees over against the bank of earth with the tops 
pointing to the southwest. Shovel fine fresh earth over and around 
the roots, then fill up the trench until the roots and a few inches 
of body are covered. Now pack the earth well by tamping lightly 
with back of shovel to avoid air pockets. Then throw on a few 
shovels of loose earth to prevent baking. Let them remain until the 
hole is ready and remove one by one as they are needed. 
The trees will keep perfectly for about a month if these direc- 
tions are followed. 
SOIL PREPARATION—Cultivate thoroughly and deeply, rak- 
ing or harrowing the soil fine to facilitate planting. Dig the hole 
deeper and larger than necessary to admit the entire toot system 
in their natural pos'tion without crowding or cramping the roots. 
Loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole to provide aeration, good 
drainage, some plant food and a more adaptable condition for root 
development. If this is neglected, the roots are soon surrounded 
by a strong wall and you cannot expect them to live very well. 
Straw in the hole leaves air spaces and roots dry out. 
No manure of any kind should be put in the hole in direct 
contact with the roots; it is injurious, causing burnings of the roots, 
a rank growth, making the tree tender and consequently short lived. 
Give the tree a chance to forage for itself and when it has 
taken good anchorage on its own, it will more easily weather 
adverse storms than if you had stimulated a dense and short root 
system by feeding the tree in the planting hole. But, if the soil 
is not rich enough to give the tree a good start, feeding is necessary 
and will do no harm. 
Ordinary garden soil is sufficient for the good growth of fruit 
trees. Over-rich soil causes a profuse growth and impairs the 
bearing of a fruit tree, thus fertilizer should be avoided, 
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