It is a grave mistake to bury the trunk with earth. The tree 
bark is of such a nature that it requires air, light, etc., but covered 
with earth, it will split, peel off and fungus diseases and parasites 
will settle in the cracks, causing the bark to degenerate and impede 
the natural flow of sap. 
MULCHING—Is of vital importance and should never be 
neglected. The material used should be coarse manu.e, peat moss 
or well-aged compost applied when the tree shows signs of tired 
growth. If a tree 1s planted in good, well drained soil, and making 
strong vegetative growth, the tree had a chance to forage for itself 
and has taken good anchorage on its own and little or no benefit 
will result from adding mulch in a planting hole. 
The purpose of any mulch is to prevent moisture loss by excess- 
ive evaporation and to bring about more constant soil temperatures, 
but will not stop weeds from growing. Straw, grass, hay or sawdust 
make the best mulch. The gradual decomposition of the material 
adds organic matter to the soil layer where many of the feeding 
roots are located. Spread around the tree for a space of from 2 to 3 
feet and 2 to 3 inches deep. This mulch should be placed around 
the tree about December 1st and should be left around the tree 
all summer. 
The object of mulch’ng in early winter is to keep the ground 
from thawing around the roots unti late in sp.ing, as more trees 
die from alternate freezing and thaw'ng of roots than from all 
other causes, and the mulch will carry the roots through in perfect 
condition, if enough is kept on. 
AFTER CULTURE—Cult vate well in the early part of the 
summer and in the month of October. The principle of cultivation 
is that the loose and pulverized soil on the sutface prevenis the 
evaporation of moisture and keeps weeds in check. It is important 
to attend annualiy to surface dra nage. 
Wood ashes may be applied if hard-pan soil is the problem, 
otherwise not necessary. 
Bone dust, and plaster are excellent manuie and stimulant for 
trees when used on the surface. 
Cow manure is unquestionably the best fertilizer for all kinds 
of fruit trees, but they will be benefited by the | beral use of most 
any well-rotted manure, and planters should bear in mind that it 
pays both in the quality of the fruit to fertilize fruit trees. 
Compost is a mixed mater al consisting mainly of decayed 
organic material—manure, leaves, peat, etc.—in which mineral soil 
is merely incidental. 
The only safe way to apply fertilizer to the tree after planted 
is to rake them into the ground—not in actual intimate contact 
with the toots. When so applied, the moisture in the ground d's- 
solves them and makes dilute solutions which feed the tree instead 
of damaging the roots. 
Fertilizing in the fall acts as a winter mulch and enriches the 
soil for the next season's showing. 
WATERING—Avoid watering fruit trees for too much water 
harms the root system and pievents the trees coming into bearing. 
Fruit trees seldom require water ng, except in very dry weather, 
then artificial watering is advised. If a drought occu s, trecs bearing 
fruit must be watered. One good watering once a week at night 
and repeated the next morning is far better than ten times as often 
if improperly done. More trees are killed than saved by injudicious 
watering. The right way is to draw away a little of the sol from 
the side of the tree, and allow all the water that the soil will absorb 
to soak in, then replace the dry soil. Keep the surface soil always 
loose to avoid crusts. Avoid water sprouts and fountains within 
reach of tree roots to eliminate moist soils. 
THINNING OUT THE FRUIT—Many varieties of apples, 
pears, peaches, plums, nectarines, and apricots are naturally so 
productive that they set more fruit than the tree can properly 
mature. When this occurs, it is highly important to pick off the 
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