fruit. As soon as the fruit is fairly set, as a general rule, pick off 
the fruit with a spacing of 4 to 5 inches between the fruit. Very 
young trees should not be allowed to bear too heavily. When a tree 
is overloaded with fruit, it requires thinning to obtain fruit of good 
size and quality, and to keep the tree from going into the un- 
desirable biennial habit. 
WINTER CARE—Rabbits, Cats, Rodents and their control: 
1. To protect a tree in winter from depredators, it would be 
advisable to wrap several thicknesses of newspapers or tar paper 
around the trunk and lower branches of the tree in the fall. The 
paper should not be tied too tightiy and it should be removed in the 
spring. 
oe Another method to prevent damage by animals is to treat 
the trunk with a repellent solution. The copper Soap Rodent 
Repellent is a dark green paint-like material which can easily be 
applied to a tree or shrub, giving a repellent protective coating. 
Has fine lasting qualities, and wili remain on trees throughout the 
winter and spring. This is endorsed and used by the Michigan State 
College. You may obtain this solution from M. J. Beck, 510 N. 
Cedar Street, Lansing, Michigan. 
THE PEACH BORER 
This is one of the most destructive pests attacking peach, 
apricot, nectarine, cherry and plum trees. 
When masses of gum-like substance mixed with sawdust-like 
refuse appears at or near the base of the tree reveals the presence 
of peach borer infestation. The gum is the bleeding of the tree and 
if the borers are not eliminated, they girdle under the bark and the 
tree will eventually die. The injury itself may extend about 3 to 4 
inches above the ground line and about 8 inches above the ground 
line along the main roots. 
Around July 1st until early August, the adult moth deposits a 
large number of eggs on the trunks of the trees or in the ground 
near the trees. The caterpillar is a yellowish white color with a 
dark brown head and about 11% inches long full grown. The 
young borers that hatch, tunnel through the bark into the growing 
tissues of the tree. Watch for the first signs of gum every year 
to prevent complications. 
To eradicate them, take a piece of wire or a knife and follow 
the channel until they are located. Most likely, there are more than 
one—look carefully. If the wound should be a large one, we 
suggest painting it to avoid infections. 
CONTROL OF THE BORER (Two Methods) 
1. Dg around the base of the trunk for about 2 inches and 
then cover this with some animal fat or some other fatty substance 
up about 10 inches, this forming a coat and preventing the borer 
from getting into the tree. This should be done during the month 
of August. The purpose of using some animal fat ’s that it will not 
injure the bark of the tree or the tree itself. 
2. Remove weed growth around the base of the tree and level 
the soil. Next, paradichlorobenzene ciystals are spread in a circle 
about 1 inch from the base of the infested tree. Finally, loose soil 
is used to cover crystals and is mounded up and tamped firm around 
the tree with shovel. 
Use a Harmone Spray to prevent preharvest drop—control wind- 
fall losses—and get better color and size fruit. 
Use paradichlorobenzene for the control of peach borers. 
Materials for the Harmone Spray and borer control may be 
obtained from the following manufacturers: 
Dow Chemical Company, Midland, Michigan. 
General Chemical Co., 40 Rector Street, New York City, N. Y. 
E. I. du Pont de Nemours & Co., Grasselli Chemicals Dept., 
Wilmington 98, Delaware, 
FRUIT SPRAY CHART 
SPRAYING—The amateur home gardener will find that one 
or more of the recently introduced preparations now on the mar- 
ket are practical to use. Nearly every type necessary is sold in 
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