
Je~ : 
chit” ~Peonies 
Huge Bombshells 
of Bursting Beauty 
It would be hard to improve this list of 
Peonies, unless we offered you varieties at 
$5.00 and $10.00 per root. Even then you wouldn’t 
have any more beauty than you get with these. 
SARAH BERNHARDT. Like a big fluffy ball of 
chiffon, but prettier. Apple-blossom-pink in 
shade. Semi-rose type, strong grower. Free bloom- 
er. Midseason. Fine for cutting. PRICES: 1 for $1.75; 2 for $3.40. 



LA LORRAINE. Dreamy, creamy white, blushing to flesh-pink near 
center; with a saffron glow of buried stamens. Globular shape; 
strong, tall stems. A fine rival for Le Cygne and Solange. Blooms 
abundantly and dependably. PRICES: 1 for $1.75; 2 for $3.40. 
SOLANGE. Large, compact rose type blending delicate waxy white, 
golden buff, and delicate orange. It glows and shimmers. Free 
bloomer. Late. PRICES: 1 for $1.25; 2 for $2.40. 
KELWAY’S GLORIOUS. You will love the creamy white of this 
amazing Peony, its mammoth rose-type flowers, and its delightful 
fragrance. Midseason. PRICES: 1 for $2.50; 2 for $4.90. 
FESTIVA MAXIMA. A magnificent Peony, lusty in size, but dainty. 
Double, pure white flowers, crimson-marked in the center. Strong 
grower. Midseason. PRICES: 1 for $1.00; 2 for $1.90. 
MONSIEUR JULES ELIE. Huge. but oh, so delicate! Flowers are a 
beautiful satiny pink, and resemble mammoth hothouse Chrysan- 
themums; just as beautiful. Very early. Tall, strong. Long lasting. 
Outstanding for cutting. PRICES: 1 for $1.75; 2 for $3.40. 
(Index of Plants and Bulbs—page 15.) 16} 

How to Grow Them 

portant when stable manure or other animal! 
fertilizers are used. Spread it about 2 inches deep. 
In any event, do not use fresh stable manure, as 
it will generate heat which will severely damage 
- the bulbs, in spite of being separated from them 
by the sand. Let’s emphasize this again: Do not 
use fresh manure in the trench. 
How does the fertilizer benefit the bulbs under 
such circumstances? Answer: The feeder roots of 
the bulb go down through the sand, reaching 
into the fertilizer after passing through the separ- 
ating layer. Then it will not do any damage, but 
will serve as a well-balanced ration for the bulb. 
Really, we recommend this method of using fer- 
tilizer in the trench in any event, as Dutch bulbs 
always respond beautifully to this extra feeding. 
If, however, you really feel that your soil has an 
abundance of fertility, and if it is well-drained 
soil, you need not go to the bother of using a 
foreign material for drainage. Simply spade your 
soil, and work it thoroughly to a depth of about 
12 inches, then put part of the soil back in the 
trench, set your bulbs, and fill in with the rest 
of the soil. 
ie on 
Dis Pea Depth 
, 4 Ti 
7a 
EN Bulb 
WWI A ——_ ara. Soi 
XXX XXX XX 
XXX Ag erttilizer 
x XX 






This drawing shows four things: (1) How to 
supply drainage as described on page 5; (2) How 
to separate fertilizer from the bulbs when animal 
fertilizer is used in the trench; (3) How to set 
the bulb upright in the trench, and (4) Proper 
planting depth. Note that depth is governed by 
bulb size. Bulb size will vary somewhat. A good 
rule: Planting depth—four times diameter of 
largest bulb. 
ce ee ee 
Note:—You will observe our emphasis on well- 
rotted stable manure as a good fertilizer, but 
sometimes it simply cannot be obtained. In that 
case, slow-acting commercial fertilizers can be 
used, and these can be mixed directly into the 
soil. Coarse bone meal is best for fall use, and 
can be used in this manner, 3 to 5 Ibs. per 100 
square feet of soil. 
In case of really heavy soils, like clay, go even 
deeper, perhaps 6 or 8 inches deeper than the 
bulb is to be set. But before laying down your 
layer of fertilizer, first put down a layer of your 
loose sand or other porous material. This can be 
2 to 3 inches deep. Then add your fertilizer, 
then another layer of sand, and then your bulb. 
Why is this done? In the first place, it is done to 
give the extra drainage, but if the fertilizer were 
put on the very bottom of the trench, it would 
be too far from the bulb, hence you first fill up 
the bottom of the trench with loose sand. 
Fertilizing After Planting 
Fertilizing at the time of planting is so much a 
part of soil preparation that it has already been 
discussed. Now you will want to know whether 
or not you must fertilize after planting, and how. 
Usually the answer is “no”, if you have fertilized 
at planting time. But if you were unable to fertil- 
ize at the actual time of planting, the next best 
How-to-Grow Index—page 22.) 
