
even a quarter of an hour, if you can avoid it. 
Then store the bulbs in a cool, dry place, pre- 
ferably dark, where they will “cure” and be 
ready for planting in the fall. 
In laying the bulbs out for curing, use shallow 
receptacles, preferably ventilated from the bot- 
tom as well as from the top. A wooden frame 
three or four inches deep, with wire screen for a 
bottom is excellent—and easily made. 
If you have room, you can leave the bulbs in 
these trays, or you can transfer them to porous 
sacks, and hang them from the rafters, or from 
poles. The sacks in which grocery stores often 
supply Onions, Potatoes or Oranges are excellent. 
It is also a good practice to dust the bulbs 
thoroughly with sulphur before storing them. 
A further precaution is: Hang the bulbs in a posi- 
tion free from air currents, to prevent their dry- 
ing out. 
Most gardeners like to leave the matter of new 
bulbs to the nursery, and so we will not go into 
further detail about the storing and growing of 
bulbs of your own. However, should you wish 
information on these subjects, we can give it to 
you as part of your Consulting Service. 
When the time comes for replanting the bulbs, 
seek a new piece of ground for them. You can 
take up the soil from your old bed or border, and 
bring in new soil, or sterilize your old soil, but 
new ground is best. 
Watering Your Garden 
Yes, watering will benefit Tulip, Hyacinth or 
Narcissus gardens during the early spring and the 
blooming season—if for some reason you fail to 
get sufficient rainfall. These are not desert flow- 
_ ers, by any means, in spite of our repeated admo- 
nition that they require good drainage. 
After the leaves have died down, the bulbs are 
dormant, and it is not necessary to worry too 
much about watering; but in really dry periods, 
watering certainly will do no harm. In any event, 
water throughly. 
The correct method of watering is to use a spray- 
er or hose whose nozzle has been set for fine 
spray, so that the moisture can penetrate into the 
soil nearly as fast as it is applied. Water by the 
hour, not by the minute. 
Can I Grow Other Flowers 
Between Crops? 
This question is asked of us a lot. Yes, it is pos- 
sible to set other flowering plants over your 
Tulip bulbs, but it should be done with care. 
Flowers that take deep soil preparation should 
not be used, as you would then disturb your 
bulbs. If you will confine yourselves to flowers 
that do not require preparation to a depth of 
more than three inches, you can use inter-crops. 
Annuals that are grown from seed, and that can 
be planted late (after the Tulip tops have died 
down and have been removed) can usually be 
used. Perennials are more dangerous to plant 
over bulbs. 
Diseases and Insects 
Tulips, Narcissi and Hyacinths are comparatively 
disease free, but there are certain diseases and in- 
sects that may bother them under certain con- 
ditions. Often they can be prevented, usually 
they can be controlled. 
(How-to-Grow Index—page 22.) 
But first of all, let’s go back to Mr. X and his 
beautiful garden. We have already told you how 
this man starts out with the best of planting stock, 
from only the most reliable nurseries, and now we 
are going to emphasize that fact again. Part of 
Mr. X’s success is due to the fact that the bulbs 
he plants are healthy when he gets them, and so 
he need only take a few precautions to prevent 
diseases from coming in by other means; and it 
is then seldom that he ever does have a disease 
to control. But when he does, rarely, he usually 
licks it in jig-time. 
First, let’s talk about prevention. You have al- 
ready bought good bulbs, let’s say. The bulbs 
are healthy when you get them, and now the 
thing to do is keep them that way. 
There are two things that we suggest, both of 
them simple. They are as follows: 
(1) Keep down weed growth. This is particularly 
important, as many of the weeds that will grow 
around your garden, and near it, are excellent 
hosts for the very diseases that may affect your 
flowers. And, they find excellent breeding places 
for insects, which also may be dangerous. 
It is, therefore, important that they be eliminated. 
And, we do not refer only to weeds in the garden. 
Weeds that grow around fence corners, old cis- 
terns, old trees and other such spots, can harbor 
diseases and insects which can reach your flowers, 
just as well as those that you might allow in the 
garden. 
Tt is hardly necessary to advise you against rub- 
bish heaps in this enlightened age. 
(2) Give your flower garden at least a reasonable 
amount of cultivation. Do you see that crust at 
the top of your soil? Hard, isn’t it? But, do you 
realize its danger? Not only does it allow mois 
ture to escape from the ground, but it prevents 
air from penetrating to the roots or bulbs of the 
flowers, and thus deprives them of a most im- 
portant disease-preventive. Most diseases find air 
distasteful and will not thrive where it is present. 
Therefore, keep that crust well broken. 
And, in keeping the crust broken, you will be 
eliminating weeds from your garden at the same 
time. 
Here are the principal diseases that might cause 
you trouble, and you are going to be amazed at 
what a few of them there are: 
Botrytis or Fire Blight: Where this is present, 
there will be smallish green spots on the leaves 
of your Tulips, which will gradually grow larger, 
until many of the leaves will turn yellow. You 
will then notice decreased blooming, and the 
failure of many buds to mature. The remedy is 
simply to remove and burn the infected leaves 
and stems. Then, if the disease is bad, you may 
have to remove your bulbs to a clean location. 
Botrytis or Fire Blight is usually prevented by 
burning weeds and rubbish before it has a chance 
to appear in your garden, rather than waiting 
until it does, then burning the Tulips. 
Mosaic: This is something that you should look 
for if you appear to have new varieties in your 
Tulip planting, as the disease causes them to 
change color, perhaps even change form. This 
is not due to mixing, or “reverting,” as we ex- 
plained in a previous chapter. It is the disease 
that causes the change. The remedy: Dig up and 
remove the infected plants, and destroy them. 
This does not save those particular plants, but 
it does stop the disease from spreading. 
Striping: This really is not the name of a dis- 
ease, but is the symptom of one. Varieties which 
(Continued on page 18) 
[15] 
INDEX 
of Flowering 
Plants and Bulbs 
ANEMONE mie celeste 31 
Aquile gia ectemte ct em 30 
SA SUC ESAT ores cena Pee 18 
Astilbeas n,n 19 
Azaleamums 16, 17, 20, 21 
also catalog envelope 
Babys. Dteathmeauen cn 30 
Canterbury Bells .... 30 
Carnations utero nein 24 
Chionodoxe tahun sate 3 
Chrysanthemums ..... 
Aino Girdle, PAD DIL. D5) 
Crocusicass ec peeres 3 
Datlodilsesencss cee 28, 29 
Day. Lilés=. caeieseeae 19 
IDMEYMAOOS 555 coo 24, 30 
Digitaligmomcen steetee 31 
Double Russian Violets 18 
Double Tulips . 72 22% 9 
Ducehelrig aia acces 3 
Fall Blooming Iris. .10, 11 
Roxcloveswerse. cee 31 
Gatllagdia™ =. ae eer 19 
Gardenia-Type Nar- 
CISSUISIEiecueccner ene 29 
(rape tivacintns rom ciee > 
Groumdsivy seotes ook 30 
Gypeopitia sata eu 30 
Helianthemum ...... 31 
Hyacinths (front cover) 1 
Hyacinths,Grape >. 3 
Tristate: 25 ons ee KO), ak, 4 
Trigsm@Dutcives.. i. . ste 3 
Pee ecctcsstne oe ie ee 30 
Japanese -Irisee. os cece 14 
i feteKeperi Ce) AS ro ime 28, 29 
Lilies inc eo cat iee 19 
also catalog envelope 
Miniature Inis’.. 5... 11 
Muamnise.<. 16.017. 20 900 to 
INatcissinee tein 28, 29 
Painted Daisies ..... 30 
Parrot Lulipses. eee 2. 
Pasque Flower ...... 31 
Peony-Type Poppy .. 23 
Peoniess.ws ote ce ee Ow) 
Perenmialst.e sun: 30, 31 
BhlOx Paes hee oe 2 
RINKS Ae ose eh eee 30 
ROp pickin. eraser. Ppa oe! 
Perimyroses ae oc Senin clele 31 
Pigreth runes, ce. e aretate 30 
Rainbows tig ee ace eee 14 
Rock Garden Plants .. 18 
Ritssian .Violetsss oe ce 18 
CUA ce oe eee ee ee 
SNOWOLEDS enshe oat eee 3 
Speedwell uot sete 31 
DLT NOSE aera oe 31 
Tulips 4.5.07 9eloetae3) 
Veronica as ote 31 
WAIGLETS beets ae eee als 
R. M. Kellogg Co. 
Three Rivers, 
Mich. 

SS Ses es ss *  — ee * 

