
Double Painted 
Daisy Buckeye 
An exceedingly beauti- 
ful.variety; rich, dark red 
coloring. Grows 24 to 30 
in. high, spread about 1 
foot, .. lots>. of = flowers, 
PRICES: 65c each; 2 for 
$1.14; 3 for $1.65. 


AQUILEGIA, Crimson 
Star. Crimson petals, 
white - Center: 53... sin: 
across. Grows 1!/ to 
2 feet tall. May-June. 
AQUILEGIA, Scott Elli- 
ott. Red, pink, blue, 
purple, white, yellow, 
mixed colors. No color 
choice. May-June. Rows 
3. feet. Hardy.” Plant 
12 to 15 inches apart. 
Shade or part shade. 
BABY’S BREATH (Gyp- 
sophila Paniculata). 
Tiny white flowers; 
bloom July. 
CREEPING’ BABY’S 
BREATH. June-July. 
Six inches high. Pink 
or white. You choose. 
Plant 10 to 12 inches 
apart. Ordinary soil; 
ordinary moisture; sun 
or part shade. 
CANTERBURY BELLS. 
Colors: Blue, Rose, Li- 
lac and White. 
DOUBLE CANTER- 
BURY BELLS. Even 
more beautiful than the 
singles. Produced in 
masses on tall, 2- to 4- 
ft. stems. You choose 
colors: Blue, Rose, Li- 
lac, and White. 
GARDEN PINKS (Di- 
anthus Plumarius). 
Pink, red, or white. 
Mixed colors only. 
Bloom nearly all sum- 
mer. 15 to 18 in. high. 
Plant 12 to 18 inches 
apart; non-vacid soil; 
ordinary moisture; sun. 
GROUND IVY (Nepeta 
Mussini). 12 inches. 
Lavender-blue flowers. 
Silvery gray foliage. 
Plant 12 in. Ordinary 
moisture; ordinary soil; 
sun or shade. 
PAINTED DAISIES 
(Pyrethrum), Varying 
shades (red, pink, 
white, etc.) Mixed col- 
ors’ only. 2 to. 3 ft. 
high. May-June. Plant 
12 to 15 in. apart. Good 
soil; sun or part shade. 
Prices at far right. 

Perennials for Fall Planting 
Perennials 
Perennials are plants which remain in the garden 
year after year: whereas annuals grow from seeds, 
and are killed by the first frost. 
There is nothing dificult about growing peren- 
nials. Just give them good soil, and a reasonable 
amount of care. Nearly all of them require a 
fertile soil, and nearly all require some sun. 
For success with perennials in general, observe 
the following: 
First, prepare the soil well. Work it deeply, and 
eliminate lumps as completely as possible. Do 
this to a depth of 10 to 15 inches, and if this 
brings you down to the non-fertile subsoil, you 
can greatly increase your chances for outstanding 
success as follows: 
First remove the top soil completely, then 
spade up the subsoil, and work in well-rotted 
stable manure, or other well-rotted animal fer- 
tilizer. Do not use chicken manure, however. 
You are now ready to replace your top soil. 
It is usually best not to mix manure directly into 
the top soil, but you will usually benefit it by 
mixing in peat moss. Peat moss helps retain 
moisture, prevents baking, and serves as a 
digestive, helping the plant absorb the fertility 
already in the soil. 
Carnations and Dianthus in general do not like 
peat moss, or acid soil; therefore, if you are pre- 
paring the soil for them, omit the peat moss. 
Do not place manure next to the roots. Take 
your time in planting, and make the opening in 
the soil large enough and deep enough so that 
the roots can go straight down, and have room 
to spread. Do not crowd the roots. 
Now press the soil firmly against the roots, using 
your feet around the plants. This eliminates air 
pockets, which would cause the roots to dry out, 
and the plants to die. 
After the plants are set, water them thoroughly. 
And we mean thoroughly. An hour or more 
once every three or four days is far better than a 
little sprinkle every day. 
WINTER PROTECTION: After you finish 
planting your perennials in the fall, give them a 
light mulch. Straw or coarse stable manure is 
best. Do not use leaves unless you provide some 
method for keeping them from packing down; 
otherwise they will smother the plants. 
Mulch after the first freeze. Mulching keeps the 
ground from alternately freezing and thawing, 
which process is really the cause of winter injury. 
Plants can stand rather severe cold, if the ground 
does not heave. 
The foregoing instructions will be all you need 
now for setting perennials. If you send us an 
order for plants this fall, you will receive our 
spring book, ‘“Kellogg’s Famous Flowers and 
How to Grow Them,” which will give you in- 
structions from then on. 
Azaleamums 
and Other Mums 
These require a rich, well-drained soil, and we 
urge you to prepare the soil well. Also be sure 
to prepare a large enough area, as the plants 
must have room to spread underground, and 
make the large, bushy plants that you expect of 
Azaleamums. We really recommend an area of 
at least 214% feet across for each Azaleamum 
plant. Prepare it to a depth of 10 to 15 inches, 
as just indicated for perennials in general. 

We supply field-grown Azaleamum plants in the 
fall. In planting them, spread the roots well. 
New growth comes from stolons (runners), and 
the new growth starts more easily if the roots are 
spread. Set the plants at least two feet apart. 
Do not go into the subsoil in preparing for the 
plants, unless you take it up separately and mix 
in stable manure as indicated for perennials in 
general. Then replace it before replacing the 
top soil. 
After the plants are set, firm the soil well with 
pressure of the feet around the plants, to elim- 
inate air pockets. This is important. Note: We 
supply Azaleamum plants with tops removed in 
the fall. The tops are not necessary, and you 
will really have better success in planting, with- 
out them. 
PROPER SOIL: Azaleamums like any good, 
slightly acid garden soil. They do like drainage, 
and generous quantities of humus. If drainage is 
lacking, it can be supplied in the same manner as 
for Tulips, by first digging up the soil, then 
adding a layer of coarse sand, then replacing the 
soil on top of the sand. If you add peat moss, 
you also help supply drainage, as it makes the 
soil more porous. 
If you do provide drainage as above outlined, it 
would be a good thing to put a layer of well- 
rotted stable manure in the bottom of the hole 
before adding the layer of sand, as outlined for 
Tulips. In that case, you will have to dig the 
hole deeper, to allow for the extra layer of ma- 
nure and sand. Always see that you separate the 
manure from the plants by a layer of sand. Ob- 
serve that we have said before, do not allow 
manure to come in contact with the roots. 
WHERE TO PLANT: All Mums, including 
Azeleamums, like sun, and should have it at 
least six hours per day. Do not plant them in 
full shade or close to trees. Not only will the 
trees shade the plants, but they will rob them of 
fertility and moisture. You can expect no success 
if you plant under trees. 
After your Azaleamums or Mum plants are set, 
water them in well; then, after the first freeze, 
mulch them as for perennials. Further details 
regarding their later care will be given in our 
spring edition of “Kellogg’s Famous Flowers and 
How to Grow them,” sent free to all who order 
of us this fall. 
Hardy Asters 
Observe the instructions for planting perennials 
in general. Give Asters full sun or part shade. 
They do not like too much fertility, therefore it 
is best to give them just a good, average garden 
soil. Plant them 2 feet apart. They require very 
little care after planting, and insects and diseases 
seldom bother them. 
Hardy Carnations 
Kellogg’s field-grown Carnations are the best for 
transplanting in the fall. With proper care they 
will produce an abundance of flowers the fol- 
lowing summer. Plant in rich, well-drained soil, 
not less than 15 inches apart, and water well. 
Plant so that the crown is just level with the 
soil’s surface. If the weather is hot, shade the 
plants for a few days after planting to protect 
them from the hot sun and wind. Carnations 
do not like acid soil, so do not use peat moss or 
other acid producers, You may use bone meal. 
It’s good for them. 3 
[30] 





