CULTURAL SUGGESTIONS FOR GROWING EVERGREENS (Cont’d.) 
Tramp the dirt in firmly, bearing your whole weight to pack 
it in tight. Leave the burlap around the earth ball, but cut the 
string and lay back the burlap as shown in sketch. (The burlap 
helps to anchor the tree and soon rots away.) When the hole is 
two-thirds filled, flood with water and then draw in enough 
loose dirt to mound up the hole and form a mulch. 
After the tree is planted, unwind the string from top and 
carefully straighten out the branches. 
(Special instructions are furnished for the planting of small 
trees, not balled and burlapped.) 
After the Planting 
HE planting instructions as outlined above do not include 
Is suggestions for the use of fertilizers, special soil prepara- 
tion or the use of peat moss, all of which are most beneficial in 
providing planting conditions to insure the greatest satisfaction 
in planting. 
Soil Requirements 
PACE does not permit a detailed discussion of soils, but we 
S can make a few general observations which we feel will be 
helpful. In general, we may say that a loose sandy loam, well 
drained, is the ideal soil for most Evergreens. Subsoil which has 
been taken out in excavating basements or soil which is mixed 
with the trash of building operations and which is frequently 
found around new homes should be dug out and good soil 
brought in. 
Very heavy stiff clay soil could be mixed with sand or peat 
moss to make it more porous, to give better drainage and allow 
the roots to more easily reach out into the ground. 
Except in the case of a very few species, Evergreens will not 
grow where the soil is wet, soggy or poorly drained. If poor 
drainage exists, the soil should be dug out to a depth of at least 
two feet and some coarse material filled in so that the water will 
not stand about the roots. 
Do not expect Evergreens to do well in soil that has been 
packed hard and not cultivated for many years. It is better that 
such soil be replaced with good top soil. 
Where soil is very shallow with rock close to the surface, there 
is not much opportunity for Evergreens to grow. 
Use of Peat Moss 
N RECENT YEARS, peat moss has become extensively used in the 
transplanting of Evergreens. This is a form of peat produced 
through a partial decay of various mosses. In former years, the 
best peat for horticultural uses came from Sweden and Germany, 
but domestic peat must now be used. Unfortunately, not all 
domestic peat is suitable for horticultural use. 
Good peat moss will hold seven times its own weight in water, 
in contrast to good garden soil which will absorb only one half 
its dry weight in moisture. Peat moss is the greatest reservoir 
known for retaining moisture in the soil when it is mixed with 
the soil. We recommend mixing peat with soil at the rate of one 
fourth peat moss and three fourths good top soil. Mix this to- 
gether thoroughly and use this mixture to fill in when planting 
Evergreens. This is particularly helpful when the soil is heavy 
and packs hard. 
Peat moss is very beneficial in promoting root growth and 
when used mixed with soil as mentioned above, it enables the 
new roots to form very rapidly and assists the tree to become 
quickly established. Many landscape gardeners make it standard 
practice to include peat moss in all of their plantings, and we 
feel that its use will well repay anyone for the small added ex- 
pense. Peat moss is not a fertilizer, but it has many other 
benefits as briefly outlined above. 
47 
Fertilizer for Evergreens 
LMOsT all fertilizers, regardless of origin or chemical analysis, 
iX are of value to Evergreens only insofar as they contain 
and make easily available the following materials: “‘Nitrogen, 
Phosphoric Acid and Potash.” Analysis of fertilizers is always 
stated in this order. Thus the 10-8-6 analysis means 10% 
nitrogen, 8% phosphoric acid and 6% potash. 
This fertilizer will benefit old plantings which have become 
neglected and will also insure from the start good thrifty growth 
on new plantings. 
Natural Manure 
HERE available, well composted cattle manure is excellent 
for use with Evergreens, and if it has been standing two or 
three years and has been composted, it is safe to mix with the 
soil at time of planting. 
Liquid Manure 
HERE trees are in a very weakened condition, they may 
y V sometimes be revived with liquid manure. This is made by 
immersing a bag of cattle manure in a barrel of water, leaving it 
there for several days. This can then be drawn off and applied 
to trees in a very weakened condition, often reviving trees that 
appear to be nearly dead. 
There are, of course, other fertilizers in addition to those men- 
tioned, but it should be borne in mind that application of ferti- 
lizer should so far as possible contain all of the necessary ele- 
ments rather than some fertilizer which contains only one of the 
ingredients beneficial to growth. In general, however, fertilizer 
which is high in nitrogen will be of greatest benefit to Ever- 
greens. 
Lime is not a fertilizer, but some types of soils might require 
the application of lime, then usually mixed with compost. 
Watering Evergreens 
T TIME of planting, Evergreens must be thoroughly watered 
jx and also at frequent intervals until such time as the trees 
are thoroughly established. Naturally, in periods of extreme 
drouth when the subsoil becomes dry, they will also require 
water. It is better to water thoroughly at less frequent intervals. 
A good way is to remove the nozzle from the garden hose, letting 
it run slowly until the ground will not absorb any more water. 
Deep watering is the only kind of watering that will do any 
permanent good to the tree. Frequent light watering of the first 
two or three inches of the soil around the tree does more harm 
than good, as this causes the roots of the tree to grow upward to 
seek the moisture and makes the tree more easily damaged 
when drouth occurs. 
There is no one rule to be followed in watering. Where the 
soil conditions are favorable and the trees have been planted in 
peat moss or in a type of soil which easily retains moisture 
naturally, the trees will require less frequent attention. 
There is no doubt that rain water is ideal when available, but 
hydrant water, unless it is highly charged with minerals or is 
extremely cold, will do no harm. 
Do not water the tops of trees when the sun is shining, but 
rinse off the tops occasionally in the evening, removing the dust 
and the loose soot. In many localities where there is much 
sulphur or other gas in the air or where a great deal of oil and 
soot accumulates on the trees, the successful raising of Ever- 
greens is out of the question. 
In conclusion, it may be said that more trees die from lack of 
water than from any other cause. 
