



LETTUCE 
1. Great Lakes 2. Oak Leaf 3. Imperial 
No. 847 4. Paris White Cos. 
LEEK 
Large American Flag—An early, popu- 
lar variety, with thick, long white stems. 
Leaves large and drooping, medium 
green. 130 days. 

LETTUCE 
Keep lettuce growing rapidly for best 
results, A light, rich soil needed for 
this. Earliest varieties must be started 
from seed in cold-frame. As soon as 
open ground can be worked trans- 
plant. For later use, sow seed in open 
ground as soon as ‘weather is favor- 
able. Keep rows 12” to 18” apart. 
Thin plants in rows 4” to 8” depend- 
ing on variety. 
Heading or Cabbage 
Big Boston or Mammoth Boston—Pop- 
ular for cold frame forcing and outside 
culture. Medium, compact heads with 
creamy yellow heart. Smooth, glossy 
leaves, edges wavy, and slightly tinged 
with redish brown. 75 days. 
Great Lakes—All-America award. An 
outstanding new Iceberg or Crisp-head 
type. A summer lettuce that stands heat 
well and is very resistant to tip burn. 
Heads medium size, solid crisp. 
Hanson—Old hardy variety for home 
and market gardens. Large globular 
heads, compact tender and sweet. Light 
yellowish green leaves, broad and cur- 
ly. 80 days. 
Iceberg—Late, large variety. Compact 
heads, crumpled, crisp and _ sweet. 
Leaves light green, slightly brown on 
edges. 85 days. 
Imperial No. 847 (Florida Iceberg)— 
Heads are of good size and solid. Does 
well in hot weather and is resistant to 
tip burn. Very hardy. 83 days. 
New York or Los Angeles—Long dis- 
tance shipper. Large curled heading 
lettuce. Dark green, curled edge leaves. 
Well blanched heads, sweet, and 
tender. 80 days. 
White Paris Cos or Trianon—Medium 
large self-folding, dark green loaf 
shaped heads. Greenish-white, well 
blanched interior, 66 days. 
Loose Leaf Varieties 
Black Seeded Simpson—Light 
frilled and crumpled. 45 days. 
Oak Leaf—The most popular leaf lettuce 
for home gardens, Rich, dark green 
leaves, tender and delicious. Outstand- 
ing resistance to hot weather. 
Prizehead — Early non-heading sort. 
Medium sized plants, crisp and tender. 
Color light brown on a medium green 
base. Leaves frilled at edges, and 
crumpled. 47 days. 
Simpson’s Early Curled—Also called 
Early Curled Silesia. Early, hardy and 
dependable. Non-heading. Leaves large 
frilled, crumpled, light green; form a 
compact bunch at center. 45 days. 
MANGEL WURZEL 
(See Beets, Leaf) 
MELONS | 
Muskmelon and Cantaloupe 
Requires long season to develop and 
is easily injured by cool weather, Be- 
fore planting, spade in liberal, forkful 
of well rotted manure in each Aill. 
Thin plants to 4 per hill after third 
leaf develops, and train vines in 
different directions. Cultivate as long 
as possible. On moist ground use 
shingles to hold melons off ground to 
prevent rotting. 
Cranshaw—A cross between Casaba 
and cantaloupe. Salmon flesh, wonder- 
ful flavor. Matures late in Summer— 
requires long growing season. 110 days. 
Casaba, Golden Beauty—Grown in hot- 
ter sections. Fruits medium large and 
globe shaped. Outer color golden yel- 
low. Flesh white, luscious and spicy. 
110 days. 
Hale’s Best—Flesh thick, deep salmon 
pink, sweet and tasty. Heavily netted 
rind, with faint stripe. Small seed cav- 
ity. Outstanding variety, resistant to 
powdery mildew. Weight, 4 lbs. 86 
days. Continued on page 16 
green, 
Bee CCmCLe|e Where? Why? 

Transplanting 
DON’T assume that transplanting is worth 
doing for itself alone, Transplanting is 
like an operation to a human being: the 
plant must recover from post-operative 
shock before it can take hold and start 
growing again. The only value in trans- 
planting is that it allows you to use 
larger plants—important in short seasons. 
If there is ever any question as to 
whether to direct-seed or to transplant, 
always direct-seed unless quicker ma- 
turity is a factor. Even tomatoes, the 
crop most often transplanted, will usually 
produce as quickly from seed sown in 
the open as they will from transplants, 
which must grow new roots before they 
can begin growing again. 
Use good seedlings if you must trans- 
plant. They should be medium green 
in color, not too tall, and the leaves 
should be free from spots or dead areas. 
Avoid seedlings that are reddened or 
purplish in color, or show signs of yellow- 
ing (except in the case of celery plants, 
which can be quite yellow and still be 
_ good). 
If you want to grow your own trans- 
plants to get healthy stock, follow these 
directions: 
SW 
forefinger and thumb. 
roots as possible. 
DON'T BEGIN too soon, unless you have 
a greenhouse or light hotbed and can 
give the seedlings plenty of room. For 
most vegetables, 6 to 7 weeks is time 
enough to allow between seeding and 
transplanting. Most homes are too dark, 
so don’t try to grow seedlings unless 
you can do it in a sunny window that 
gets direct sunshine for at least six hours. 
Fill shallow boxes (flats) with a mixture 
of 1/3 good garden soil, 1/3 clean sand 
and 1/3 compost, leaf mould or other 
well-rotted organic matter. Make very 
shallow rows or furrows with the edge of 
a ruler. or a wood lath, 3’ apart. Sow 
seeds in these rows 1” apart in the row. 
DON'T let your soil dry out, and don't 
let it be soggy. Spray lightly two or 
three times a day, using an atomizer or 
bulb sprinkler. When the best seedlings 
can be selected, thin out to, stand 2” to 3” 
apart. Before transplanting into the gar- 
den, withhold water for 2 or 3 days. In 
transplanting, set the plants firmly by 
pressing on both sides of the stem with 
If not firmed thor- 
oughly, seedling may be killed by being 
hung with an air space underneath. 
Always try to save as many leaves and 
Scientific tests show 
that it is better to allow the transplant to 
wilt slightly than to remove leaves to 
prevent that wilting. Removing leaves 
slows up manufacture of plant food that 
will help plant recover, Liberal watering 
should prevent wilting. 
After Transplanting 
As soon as the garden has been planted, 
water thoroughly but gently with a fine 
spray. This, by the way, is the only time 
we sprinkle a garden; once the plants 
are established, any watering should give 
the soil a good soaking. If a crust forms 
after watering, break this by working 
with a hoe or cultivator on both sides of 
the row. 
In the case of slow-germinating seeds 
like carrots and parsnips, mixing a few 
radish seeds in the packet will mark the 
tow early. Otherwise you may have to 
delay cultivation until too late to do a 
good job of weed control. 
DON'T take it for granted that cultivation 
will substitute for watering. Tests prove 
that pulverized soil loses just as much 
water after working as before. The real 
reason for cultivating is to destroy weeds. 
Weeds shade desirable plants, rob them 
of moisture and use up soil plant food. 
13. 

