

ONIONS, Continued 
White Portugal or Silverskin—Excel- 
lent flat variety. Dependable cropper 
excellent for sets, for green bunching, 
or as a pickler. 100 to 102-days. 
Red Varieties 
California Early Red—Uniform size, col- 
or and shape. Large half globe, with 
thick skin. Very white flesh and juicy. 
75 days. 
ONION SETS 
Onion sets used instead of seeds will 
produce earlier crops of green onions 
or large bulbs. Plant sets right side 
up and cover with garden rake; then 
firm the soil well over the sets, 
The quickest way to get onions early. 
We offer choice, select, dry sets, of the 
highest quality. (Prices on application.) 
PARSLEY 
Does bestsin rich, mellow loam. Seed 
is slow to’ germinate, and is helped 
by soaking in warm water over night 
before planting. Sow early and not 
too deeply. When curled varieties are 
about 3” tall, cut off leaves, The new 
growth will be brighter and curlier. 
Moss Curled or Triple Curled—Com- 
pact, dark green leaves, curled and fine 
cut. 70 days. : 
Plain or Single—Leaves dark green, 
flat, deeply cut, but not curled. 60 days. 
PARSNIP 
Needs rich, mellow soil for best 
growth. Sow in early spring and fall. 
Cover seed VY" and press soil down 
firmly. Thin to 3” to 4” apart when 
plants have made a good start. 
‘Hollow Crown (fr)—The most generally 
grown kind, Roots 2¥% to 3-in. thick at 
shoulder, 12 to 14-in. long uniformly 
tapered, hollow crowned. 95 days. 
PEAS 
Early peas need a light, warm soil; 
but general crop thrives best in mod- 
erately heavy soil, (Avoid fresh ma- 
nure and very rich or wet, mucky soil 
as this produces large growth of vine 
at the cost of quality of the peas.) 
Plant seed in rows at 2” depth. Keep 
rows 21" to 28” apart for dwarf va- 
riettes and 28” to 42" for the taller 
types. Gather crop as fast as it 1s fit 
to use or new pods will cease to form 
and those partly advanced will cease 
growth, 
Early and Second Variety 
Hundredfold or. Laxtonian—Exception- 
ally choice and prolific. Dark green, 
rather coarse vines, producing straight 
pointed, well-filled 2¥2-in. pods. 62 
days. 
Laxton’s Progress (fr) —Medium dark 
green vine, 16 to 18-in. Single pods 
almost an inch wide and 4% to 5-in. 
long, with 7 to 9 large peas. 62 days. 
Little Marvel (fr)—Outstanding, dwarf. 
Fine quality, large yield. Single and 
double, dark green, 3-in. pods—blunt, 
plump, well filled with 7 to 8 medium 
sized light green tender peas, 62 days. 
Later Varieties 
Alderman or Dark-Podded Telephone 
(fr)—Large podded variety of the Tele- 
phone family. Excellent for home gar- 
dens, truckers, shipping to distant mar- 
kets and for freezing; resistant to 
Fusarium wilt. Vine dark green, coarse. 
Pods single, very broad, plump, 
straight, dark green, pointed; contains 
8 to 10 peas of highest quality. Seed 
large, wrinkled, light green. 74 days. 
Dwarf Telephone or Daisy—Large pods 
4’2-in. long, broad, straight and’ pointed 
containing 7 to 9 large round peas. 
Vines about 24-in. tall. A popular main- 
crop pea. 79 days. 
Giant Stride—A _ wilt 
pea—heavy yielder. Dark green, 16 
to 18 inch vines. Top quality flavor. 
Long well filled pods. 74 days. 
Improved Stratagem — Large slightly 
curved pods on stout medium vines. 
Good succession crop variety. 8 to 9 
medium green peas. 78 days. 
Edible Podded or Sugar 
Mammoth Melting Sugar—Wilt 
ant. Coarse light-green vine, 
Single 4!/-in. pods, broad, 
light, blunt, stringless, without fiber 
fleshy, Contains 7 peas. Seed large, 
round, creamy-white. 74 days. 
PEPPERS 
Warm, mellow soil in sheltered loca- 
tion 1s best. Start under glass. Culti- 
vate regularly, drawing soil up around 
stems. When plants are 7” to 8” tall, 
hoe in light dressing of commercial 
fertilizer. Do not plant hot peppers 
near sweet; they are apt to cross. 
Hot 
Anaheim Chili—Hot. Long, smooth 
tapering, deep green fruits, changing 
to bright scarlet at maturity. 80 days. 
Long Red Cayenne—The hot favorite. 
For canning, pickling, drying. Pungent 
flavored fruit, tapering and twisted. 70 
days. Continued on page 10 
resistant dwarf 
resist- 
94-in. 
indented 

How? When? 
Continued from Page 15 
PARSNIPS 
Must be planted as early as ground can 
be worked. Soil must be loose to a 
depth of 12’’ and cannot be heavy. Space 
5” part. Cold weather turns starches into 
sugar and improves flavor. Roots are 
hardy: leave in ground over winter if, 
desired. 
PEAS 
Plant variety Alaska as soon as ground 
can be dug. Plant wrinkled varieties 
(which have better flavor) when narcissus 
buds show color or when crocuses are in 
bloom. Peas are not satisfactory when 
weather turns hot. Tall varieties must be 
staked. Most home gardeners’ prefer 
dwart varieties like Little Marvel. Peas 
want well-limed soil. Don’t forget, inocu- 
lation improves production. 
PEPPERS 
Need long growing season: start indoors 
8 weeks before plants are wanted. Set 
plants 15’ x 24’ and feed liberally for 
bigger fruits. 
PUMPKINS 
Follow muskmelon culture, 
corn after last cultivation. 
RADISHES 
As a rule the first crop to mature: plant 
as early as soil can be dug. Feed liber- 
ally for quick growth. Sow a 10 foot row 
every ten days until weather turns 
warm. Start planting again with the com- 
ing of cool weather in fall. The fall and 
winter types are sown in mid-summer to 
mature in fall for storage. 
SW 
or plant in 
SPINACH 
Seed in fall (protect with straw) or in 
very early spring. Must mature before 
hot weather. 
Spinach (New Zealand) 
While this crop grows freely in hot 
weather, it will not germinate except 
when soil temperatures are below 70 
degrees. Hence it should be sown with 
the half-hardy crops — those that are 
planted when the narcissi bloom. Plant 
in soil with plenty of organic matter, 
spacing the plants about 3 feet by 3 
feet. Keep them cut back, since only the 
young growing tips are eaten and long, 
woody stems have little flavor. Many who 
have tried a mixture of half Swiss Chard 
and half New Zealand Spinach say that 
this is better than either vegetable alone. 
SQUASH 
Follow culture given for muskmelon for 
vine types. Grow bush types in rows, 
spaced 24’ apart. Keep picked. Will bear 
all summer. 
TURNIPS 
Follow directions for radishes. 
can be cooked for greens. 
TOMATOES 
There are two schools of tomato culture— 
those who stake and those who don't. 
Reasons for and against are as follows: 
FOR STAKING: While staked plants pro- 
duce fewer fruits per plant, they produce 
more tomatoes for a given area. So if 
room is at a premium, it will pay to 
stake. Staked plants usually produce 
Thinnings 
me e7U UA CemeU Where? Why? 
cleaner fruits and bear somewhat earlier. 
AGAINST: Staking calls for much extra 
labor in staking, tying and pruning. The 
total production per plant is higher in un- 
staked and unpruned plants. If you have 
plenty of room, the saving in labor makes 
the unstaked method the best. All com- 
mercial canning crops of tomatoes are 
grown in this way. 
If the ground under the vines is cov- 
ered with a mulch of clean straw, this 
will improve the quality of the fruits and 
will also keep weeds down and save 
moisture. 
When staking, set plants 18’ apart in 
the row, in rows 3 feet apart. Use a 7 
foot stake, driven 1 foot into the ground. 
Tie plant to stake with soft twine or other 
plant tie. Habit of growth calls for a side 
shoot from the first point where a leaf 
joins the main stem, another side shoot 
from the second leaf joint, and a flower 
cluster from the third joint. This 2-1 pat- 
tern of growth is repeated up the entire 
stem. 
The staked plant is allowed to 
grow from the tip, and as it grows, the 
stem is tied to the stake. As the side 
shoots appear, these are pinched out or 
rubbed off, leaving the flower clusters to 
produce fruits. When training tomatoes to 
stakes, be sure to leave all possible foliage 
to hide the fruits from direct sunshine; 
otherwise they will sunscald. 
When grown without staking, the vines 
will sprawl on the ground. This means 
they will need more room, Three feet 
between plants and four feet between 
rows will not be too much ground to use 
if you can spare the room, 
If 

