
NAVLET’S PLANTING GUIDE 
How to plant 
ROSES 
The planting season for roses follows the 
dropping of leaves after the first heavy 
frost—the time when field-grown roses are 
dug. Obviously, the sooner planted, the 
less care required. 
Give the roses the best location possible. 
They want: well-drained soil; at least a 
half-day’s full sunlight (morning sunlight 
is not especially desirable); shelter and 
protection from prevailing winds. They 
should not be too close to large trees. 
Prepare the rose beds in advance, if pos- 
sible. Where the soil is good garden loam 
which has been under cultivation for 
some time and is well drained, so there 
is no standing moisture, the preparation 
is easy. Dig to twice the depth of a spade 
—about 24 inches. Mix thoroughly gener- 
ous quantities of Manure and Bonemeal 
and two tablespoonfuls of Sulphate of 
Potash with soil in bottom of hole. Let 
stand and settle. 
Promptness and Care are important 
When the roses arrive, try to plant them 
at once, If ihe weather is bad, or the 
ground soggy, they had better be partially 
buried in a shady, moist place in the 
garden. If the tops are shrivelled, bury 
the plants completely in moist soil until 
the wood becomes plump again—several 
days. 
When ready to plant, special care should 
be taken to handle the roses with the 
least possible exposure of the roots. Se- 
lect a cloudy, cool day when there is no 
wind, and keep the roots covered at all 
times. Better carry the roses to the garden 
in a bucket of water and frequently ““pud- 
dle” the roots in thin mud before planting. 
Examine each plant carefully before plant- 
ing, and cut away all broken or bruised 
roots. If canes are very long, shorten to 
an outside bud about 6 inches above 
knuckle. Leave only three canes, pointing 
out, with open center. 
Make a hole in the prepared ground large 
enough to accommodate the roots without 
twisting, coiling or bunching them. Try 
to put the roots in the ground the same 
way they were before the plant was dug. 
That is, spread them out so there are lay- 
ers of soil between the various strands. 
Work the soil around the roots with the 
fingers, jiggling the plants up and down to 
settle it among them, The whole plant 
should be set deep enough so that the 
“bud! or ‘knuckle’ is just beneath the 
surface. 
Roses thrive on attention 
As the earth is filled into the hole, make 
it very firm by pressing it down with the 
fingers and fist. When the roots are COv- 
ered, it is advisable to step into the hole 
and rock gently backward and forward to 
make sure that every air space is closed 
up with soil. If the soil is dry, the hole 
should then be filled with water, which 
must be allowed to drain completely be- 
fore putting in more soil. 
Mound the soil up high about the lower 
branches to protect the canes from drying 
out. The mound should be leveled when 
the roses begin to make normal growth. 
The hoe and hand cultivator are the best 
tools for the rose garden. If the ground is 
thoroughly cultivated once a week, most 
rose troubles will be prevented or over- 
come, Soak soil thoroughly every week 
and always remove spent blooms, 
24-H 
PRUNING HINTS 
All pruning can be classified under one 
of the three following heads. Sometimes 
two or three apply to the same plant, but 
they are distinct, nevertheless: 
1. Pruning to increase health or vigor. 
2. Pruning to get a special form of growth. 
3. Pruning to increase quantiy or improve 
quality. 
The first step in any kind of pruning is 
to determine just what it is we want to 
accomplish. It is easy to ruin a plant by 
thoughtless or haphazard cutting. 
Vigorous plants should be pruned less 
severely than weak growing plants. 
The more vigorous parts of a plant should 
be pruned more severely than the weaker 
growths. 
As a general rule, the earlier in the de- 
velopment of a plant, limb or shoot the 
pruning required can be done, the better. 
In using pruning shears, four points are 
to be remembered: First—Always leave a 
clean smooth cut. Second—Cut just the 
right distance above the bud. Third—Prune 
above an outside bud. Fourth—Cut close 
up to and parallel with the main branch, 
trunk or stem. (It is well to disinfect all 
pruning tools before using.) 
Prune shrubs by type 
For the purpose of pruning, all ornamental 
shrubs should be considered in two gen- 
eral groups: 
First—those which flower, usually in the 
spring or early summer, from buds on the 
wood of the previous season’s growth. 
This group should be pruned green di- 
rectly after flowering. By dormant prun- 
ing, many of the flower buds would be 
sacrificed. Examples: 
Azalea (Ghent, Mollis) Prunus (Flowering 
Berberis (Barberry) Almond) 
Bignonia (Trumpet Rhododendron 
vine) Roses (Climbing 
C. oxyacantha varieties) 
(Hawthorne) Spirea Thunbergii 
Deutzia S. Prunifolia 
Forsythia (Golden (Bridal Wreath) 
Bells) Spirea Van Houteii 
Hydrangea (Hortensis) Viburnum (Snowball) 
Jasminum Weigelia 
Kudzu Vine Wisteria, etc. 
Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus 
(Mock Orange) 
Second—those which flower, usually dur- 
ing late summer or in early autumn, from 
buds on the current year’s growth. This 
group should be pruned dormant before 
growth begins in the spring. Example: 
Calycanthus 
(Sweet shrub) 
Clematis Jackmanii 
Genista (Rock Broom) 
Honeysuckle 
Spirea 
Hydrangea paniculata 
Roses (Garden 
Bush varieties) 
Viburnum tinus 

CLIMBING ROSES 

PRUNING AND BUDDING TOOLS 
BUDDING and GRAFTING 
HINTS 
Budding is a form of graftage wherein a 
bud from one plant is inserted underneath 
the bark or stock of another. It must be 
done when the bark of the stock is still 
loose or will peel, which is in the spring 
and summer. Twigs are cut from the tree 
which it is desired to propagate. The buds 
are cut off with a sharp knife—a shield 
shaped bit of bark (with possibly a little 
wood) being left with them. 
Make a T-shaped incision in the stock a 
little longer than the bud. Roll back the 
bark, then shove the bud into the slit 
until firmly placed against the inner wood. 
Tie with a soft strand, starting above the 
bud and working downward, making sure 
that the strand is directly above and be- 
low the bud to press the bark firmly 
against it. 
In two or three weeks, the bud will have 
“‘stuck’’ (grown fast to the stock) and the 
strand can be cut to prevent its strangling 
or cutting into the swelling stock. 
Ordinarily, the bud does not grow until 
the following spring, at which time the 
entire stock or branch in which the bud 
is inserted is cut off an inch above the 
bud so the bud receives all the energy 
of the stock, 
Grafting. The success of this simple opera- 
tion is the growing together of the cam- 
bium of the cion (or cutting) and that of 
the stock. The cambium is the new and 
growing tissue which lies underneath the 
bark and outside of the growing wood. 
Therefore, the line of demarcation between 
the bark and the wood must coincide when 
cion and stock are joined. 
The greater part of the grafting is done 
when the cion is nearly or quite dormant, 
usually in winter and early in spring. 
In grafting on small stocks, it is customary 
to employ the whip-graft. Both stock and 
cion of approximately the same diameter 
are cut across diagonally, and a split made 
in each so that one fits into the other. The 
graft is tied securely with a band, and, if 
above ground, it is carefully waxed. 
In large limbs or stocks outdoors, the 
usual method is the cleft-graft. This con- 
sists of cutting off the stock from 6 inches 
to 2 feet from the main trunk, splitting it 
from the top for a short distance and in- 
serting a slender, wedge shaped cion with 
three or four healthy dormant buds in one 
or both sides of the split. Push the wedge 
in to just below the upper surface of the 
cut. Cover the tips of the cions and the 
stump of the stock with Snow’s or M&P 
Grafting Wax. 
