
DAHLIA, ‘% 
Formal Decorative 
DAHLIA, 
Miniatures 




Dream O’Beauty 
Lavender Ruffles 
GLADIOLUS 
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GLADIOLUS 
Perhaps the most useful of all summer- 
flowering bulbs. Excellent to fill in places 
where perennials have died, or where 
annuals have failed. When used in this 
way, need no care other than that given 
the other garden flowers. Do not use 
extra fertilizer; too much food promotes 
production of bulbils or offsets at the ex- 
pense of good bloom and of a sound cen- 
ter bulb. 
Gladiolus bulbs can be planted at any 
time from earliest spring until July first 
(if sound bulbs are on hand that late). 
Before planting, treat bulbs for thrips 
(ask for information). In light soil, plant 
5" to 6’ deep. This will help support 
the flower spike which might otherwise 
fall over. In heavy soil, 4’ deep is cor- 
rect. If planted too shallow, more bul- 
bils will be produced, but not as good 
flowers. Space 6” apart in rows 24” 
apart, though for smaller, older sorts, 
4" may be enough room to allow. 
Regular spraying to control thrips is 
essential wherever this insect pest has 
been seen. If your flowers failed to de- 
velop properly last year, and if the 
leaves had greyish tan patches on them, 
this means you had thrips, and will 
have them again unless you treat. 
D.D.T. has proved a perfect control for 
this pest. 

DAHLIAS 
Perhaps our most spectacular fall flower, 
the Dahlia should not be planted too 
early, as the flowers will not do well 
in warm weather. Do not, however, keep 
tubers later than June lst, since by that 
time they usually start shriveling and 
may be injured if kept later. Dahlias 
need plenty of potash and phosphorus. 
If you apply the 25 to 30 lbs. of mixed 
fertilizers recommended for general use 
before planting, then additional feeding 
of potash and phosphorus will still be 
needed to produce firm tubers that will 
keep over winter, healthier plants and 
better bloom. 
Leaf hoppers which carry disease and 
which also injure the plant by sucking 
juice from the leaves and stems are easily 
controlled by regular dusting or spray- 
ing with D.D.T. Mulching with straw, 
excelsior or some other airy, light ma- 
terial will help keep the soil moist and 
cool. Don’t use leaves or grass clippings 
that mat down and pack—they hold in 
too much moisture, 
Horticultural vermiculite is the perfect win- 
ter storage medium for dahlia tubers. Dry 
the freshly dug tubers in the sun for 
several hours. Then cover them completely 
with dry vermiculite, They can’t freeze in 
it. They won't shrivel or mold. 
FANCY LEAVED CALADIUMS 
These spectacular foliage plants are par- 
ticularly valuable because they do well 
in shade. Start them in a mixture of 
half sand and half leaf mould at a tem- 
perature of over 70 degrees. When -the 
roots are well-developed and the shoot 
is beginning to show, pot up in rich soil. 
Set out in the garden when weather is 
warm and settled. Elephant ears can be 
planted directly in soil out of doors, but 
the weather must be warm and settled, 
otherwise they will rot. 
Bulbs and tubers are a good 
INVESTMENT 
Few garden flowers pay such high 
dividends as bulbs and tubers! 
Lasting for years ... they return your 
investment over and over ... by 
giving so much beauty for such little 
care, or cost, or effort. 

TUBEROSE 
This warm-weather bulb should be 
planted in rich soil, with 2” of soil over 
the tip after the weather is warm and 
settled. Do not try to save the bulbs: 
these must be grown by a specialist if 
they are to bloom well. Buy new bulbs 
each: year, 
CANNAS 
While cannas will tolerate cold soil, they 
usually do not start growing until hot 
weather comes. If planted in round beds, 
you will need 37 plants for a 10 foot 
bed (18 plants on the outside, 12 in the 
second row, six for the third row and 
one in the center). A 7 foot bed will use 
19 plants, with 12 plants on the outside 
row, six for the middle row and one plant 
in the center. 
LILIES 
Even the swamp lilies will not tolerate 
wet feet; all must have perfect drainage. 
Yet they like a moist, cool soil. This 
means that liberal quantities of old well- 
decayed compost is almost essential for 
lilies. Most varieties will not tolerate lime; 
your soil should have a pH of 6.5 or below 
if you want to grow good lilies. 
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