

LETTUCE 
1. Great Lakes 2. Oak Leaf 3. Imperial 
No. 847 4.- White Paris Cos 
KALE OR BORECOLE 
Requires moist, well enriched soil. 
Pick leaves as wanted, or pull whole 
plant. Leaves are best after a frost. 
Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch — Wide 
spreading, fine curled blue-green plant 
plume-like leaves. Use as a vegetable 
and for ornament. Exceptionally uni- 
form. 55 days. 
KOHLRABI 
Sow early as possible in light, rich 
soil. When plants are in the third leaf, 
thin to 6” apart. Plant at intervals of 
Jo days for succession of bulbs until 
hot weather—after which they do not 
grow, Use while still young and 
tender, before skin hardens. 
White Vienna Early (fr)—8 to 10-in. 
leaves on slender stems. Bulbs 2 to 
3-in., globular, light green. Crisp, ten- 
. der, clear white flesh. 55 to 60 days. 
LEEK 
Large American Flag—Early, thick, long 
white stems. Leaves large and drooping, 
medium green. 130 days. 
LETTUCE 
Keep lettuce growing rapidly for best 
results, A light, rich soil needed for 
this. Earliest varieties must be started 
from seed in cold-frame. As soon as 
open ground can be worked, trans- 
plant. For later use, sow seed in open 
ground as soon as weather is favor- 
able. Thin plants in rows 4” to 8” 
depending on variety. 
Heading or Cabbage 
Bibb—Farly, small headed lettuce of 
excellent quality and flavor. Perfect for 
home gardens. Very smooth, dark green 
leaves, bleaching to a rich yellow. 
Big Boston or Mammoth Boston—Pop- 
ular for cold. frame forcing and outside 
culture. Medium compact heads with 
creamy, yellow heart. Smooth, glossy 
leaves, edges wavy, and slightly tinged 
with reddish brown, 75 days. 
) Great Lakes—All-America award. An 
outstanding new Iceberg or Crisp-head 
type. A summer lettuce that stands heat 
well and in very resistant to tip burn. 
Heads medium size, solid, crisp. 
Iceberg—Late, large variety. Compact 
heads, crumpled, crisp and sweet. 
Leaves light green, slightly brown on 
edges. 85 days. 
‘ Imperial No. 847 
(Florida Iceberg)— 
Heads are of good size and solid, Does 
well in hot weather and is resistant to 
tip burn. Very hardy. 83 days. 
New York No, 12—The standard crisp- 
head lettuce. Large globular shaped 
head, dark green with blanched, silvery 
white heart. Successfully grown out- 
doors spring summer and fail. 85 days. 
White Paris Cos or Trianon—Medium 
large selffolding, dark green loaf 
shaped heads. Greenish-white, well 
blanched interior. 66 days. 
Loose Leaf Vaieties 
Black Seeded Simpson—Light green, 
frilled and crumpled, 45 days. 
Grand Rapids—Erect, compact plants. 
Light green, broad heavily fringed. For 
forcing or early planting. 43 days. 
Oak Leaf—The most popular leaf lettuce 
for home gardens. Rick, dark green 
leaves, tender and delicious. Outstand- 
ing resistance to hot weather. 
Prizehead — Early non-heading | sort. 
Medium sized plants, crisp and tender. 
Color light brown on a medium green 
base. Leaves frilled at edges, and 
crumpled, 47 days. 
MANGEL WURZEL 
(See Beets, Stock) 
MELONS 
Muskmelon and Cantaloupe 
Requires long season to develop and 
is easily injured by frost, or even by 
cool weather. Before planting, spade 
in liberal forkful of well rotted ma- 
nure in each hill, Thin plants to 4 per 
hill after third leaf develops, and train 
vines in diffrrent dirctions, Cultivate 
as long as possible, On moist ground 
use shingles to hold melons off ground 
to prevent rotting. 
Bender’s Surprise—Similar to Tip Top. 
Coarse netted 7-lb., oblong fruit, distinct- 
ly ribbed hard greenish-yellow skin. 
Flesh bright salmon, 95 days. 
Continued on Page 16 
ORCL UAT CMCLU | Where? Why? 

Transplanting 
DON’T assume that transplanting is worth 
doing for itself alone, Transplanting is 
like an operation to a human being: the 
plant must recover from post-operative 
shock before it can take hold and start 
growing again. The only value in trans- 
planting is that it allows you to use 
larger plants—important in short seasons. 
If there is ever any question as to 
whether to direct-seed or to transplant, 
always direct-seed unless quicker ma- 
turity is a factor. Even tomatoes, the 
crop most often transplanted, will usually 
produce as quickly from seed sown in 
the open as they will from transplants, 
which must grow new roots before they 
can begin growing again. 
Use good seedlings if you must trans- 
plant. They should be medium green 
in color, not too tall, and the leaves 
should be free from spots or dead areas. 
Avoid seedlings that are reddened or 
purplish in color, or show signs of yellow- 
ing (except in the case of celery plants, 
which can be quite yellow and still be 
good). 
If you want to grow your own trans- 
plants to get healthy stock, follow these 
directions: 
ON 
DON'T BEGIN too soon, unless you have 
a greenhouse or light hotbed and can 
give the seedlings plenty of room. For 
most vegetables, 6 to 7 weeks is time 
enough to allow between seeding and 
transplanting. Most homes are too dark, 
so don’t try to grow seedlings unless 
you can do it in a sunny window that 
gets direct sunshine for at least six hours. 
Fill shallow boxes (flats) with a mixture 
of 1/3 good garden soil, 1/3 clean sand 
and 1/3 compost, leaf mould or other 
well-rooted organic matter. Make very 
shallow rows or furrows with the edge of 
a ruler or a wood lath, 3”. apart. Sow 
seeds in these rows 1” apart in the row. 
DON’T let your soil dry out, and don't 
let it be soggy. Spray lightly two or 
three times a day, using an atomizer or 
bulb sprinkler. When the best seedlings 
can be selected, thin out to stand 2"’ to 3” 
apart. Before transplanting into the gar- 
den, withhold water for 2 or 3 days. In 
transplanting, set the plants firmly by 
pressing on both sides of the stem with 
forefinger and thumb. If not firmed thor- 
oughly, seedling may be killed by being 
hung with an air space underneath. 
Always try to save as many leaves and 
roots as possible. 
Scientific tests show, 
that it is better to allow the transplant to 
wilt slightly than to remove leaves to 
prevent that wilting. Removing leaves 
slows up manufacture of plant food that 
will help plant recover. Liberal watering 
should prevent wilting, 
After Transplanting 
As soon as the garden has been planted, 
water thoroughly but gently with a fine 
spray. This, by the way, is the only time 
we sprinkle a garden; once the plants 
are established, any watering should give 
the soil a good soaking. If a crust forms 
after watering, break this by working 
with a hoe or cultivator on both sides of 
the row. 
In the case of slaw-germinating seeds 
like carrots and parsnips, mixing a few 
radish seeds in the packet will mark the 
row early. Otherwise you may have to 
delay cultivation until too late to do a 
good job of weed control. 
DON'T take it for granted that cultivation 
will substitute for watering. Tests prove 
that pulverized soil loses just as much 
water after working as before. The real 
reason for cultivating is to destroy weeds. 
Weeds shade desirable plants, rob them 
of moisture and use up soil plant food. 
13 
