POTTING DIRECTIONS 
Bulbs bloom better in pots that are not too large. A 2144” Amaryllis will do 
well in a 6” or 7” pot. Many use a 5” size but I prefer to give as large a pot as 
will be favorable to flowering. Give larger or smaller bulbs of any sort, pots in 
proportion to this size, that is, 2 or 3 times the diam. of bulb. Small bulbs ee, be 
planted 2” or 3” apart in any size pot. 
Most large bulbs, like Amaryllis, may have 2/3 of bulb above surface but 
small bulbs, especially Anemones and Ranunculus, should be covered about 1”. 
Use clean pots. It is advisable to boil and scrub the surface. Even new clay 
pots should be boiled, or soaked for two days to remove chemicals. Cover the 
hole at bottom with a piece of broken pot, concave side down. Above this place 
small pieces of broken pot and gravel. This helps to drain away excess water. 
The drainage must be perfect and it is essential that the soil above this 
drainage be of a friable texture that permits water to pass thru freely. 
The best soil is a rich sandy loam with the addition of plenty of humus. For 
humus one can combine rotted leaf mould and old rotted dairy manure well 
broken up and rubbed thru a screen of smallest gauge. For most plants the 
proportion can be 2/3 sandy loam, 1/3 humus. 
Fertilizers. Many advise the addition of fertilizer to potting soils. We never 
use any except the rotted dairy manure and leaf mould and sometimes a table- 
spoon of bone meal. If new roots come into contact with much fertilizer they are 
burned. Commercial fertilizer is especially a hazard. When the plants have become 
well rooted and have made a good top growth, most of them will be helped by 
using liquid manure. Cover manure with water and allow to settle. Pour off water 
and dilute further until it is a very light amber, the color of weak tea. This can 
be used about every two weeks but don’t use it on dry soil and thirsty plants. 
Sun exposure. Note requirements of plants under listings. For full sun, use a 
south window. For half sun use an east or west window and add a thin curtain 
if it proves too much. For Clivias and others requiring full shade or only alittle 
filtered sunlight, use a north window or place on a stand at a distance from 
window, but always give plenty of light and good ventilation, especially in gas 
heated rooms. 
Temperature. Most bulbs root better in a cool room of 45°. There must not 
be too much water given while roots are starting as it may cause bulbs to rot 
even when cool. When a bud or foilage shows that growth has started, gradually 
bring the temperature to about 70° and water a little more. The best temperatures 
for plahts vary. Some like more warmth than others. This is indicated in the 
special culture directions for these plants. 
Probably more failures in forcing bulbs result from starting the forcing 
process (bringing the bulbs into a warm room with more light) before they are 
well rooted, than from any other cause. When bulbs are well rooted bring them 
into warmer temperature by easy stages, not suddenly from 45° to 75°. Gradually 
increase water supply. 
When thru flowering, do not forget them but keep them growing as long as 
possible. An Amaryllis bulb will grow for 5 months or longer before going 
dormant. 
CATALOG ARRANGEMENT 
is by Plant Families, according to their relationships. 
In the following lists the genus (plu. genera) is mentioned first. After it, the 
species (plu. also species) or horticultural variety is named. The initial of the 
genus is used for the second and succeeding species. Thus A. will stand for 
Amaryllis or Agapanthus depending on the genus last named in full. When a 
person’s name in parentheses follows a plant’s name, that person is the botanical 
authority for the name. 
THE AMARYLLIS FAMILY—Amaryllidaceae — 
This Family includes the following bulbs, Agapanthus thru The Alliae. 
The American Plant Life Society was founded in 1934 as The American 
Amaryllis Society. The interests of the Society have recently been enlarged to 
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