6 
(3) As a violet likes warmer—/72 degrees is a good temperature 
in average weather. If it is below 65 degrees at night, move plant 
away from the window and cover lightly with a newspaper. 
(4) Transplant when the plant looks very tired, pot bound, and 
refuses to bloom. A 3” glazed container usually holds out for one 
year. Of course larger ones last longer. 
To raise more plants, if there are rooted shoots when you 
transplant. Plant them in smaller pots, however, we prefer just 
one head in a container, it makes a more symmetrical plant and you 
want blooms not small plants. Rub the small shoots off as they 
appear with a sharp pointed stick; and raise your new plants by 
cutting off the healthy old leaves at bottom of plant with a stem 
114” long. Place it in a small bottle of water for about three weeks. 
When well rooted, plant in same soil as parent. Three leaves to a 3” 
pot and do not disturb until the smallest plant in container has four 
leaves. In my home it takes five to six months to raise small plants 
from leaves. You may have better conditions and can raise them 
more rapidly. 
(5) Soil is very important. Different growers use different 
proportions of sand, peat-moss, and different fertilizers, but one 
fact remains—the soil must be rich and porous. Some use compost, 
some leaf mold, and some river mud. Each should be treated a little 
differently and we have learned some soils do better in one home 
and another mixture in another home. If you use compost, use 
about 3 cups of compost to 2-3 cups sand, and | tsp. bonemeal, no 
peat moss. If leaf mold, the same proportion of sand and bonemeal. 
(They neither need any peat moss as they contain enough humus.) 
If river muck is used, add 1 cup of peat moss to above receipt or 
mixture. If no bonemeal is used, plant must be fed as the violets 
like all continuous bloomers are heavy feeders. Some growers use 
liquid manure, some feed with Itsp. of a commercial fertilizer to 
three quarts of water. Some use tablets as directed. All should be 
used by bottom watering. Pouring water on surface rots the crown 
of the plant in time and you are more sure of water reaching every 
part of soil in container when it is soaked up from the bottom. 
Those above fertilizers are used about once a month on a blooming 
plant. 
(6) The nearest to rock crevices the violet planter can get in a 
container is a heavy giazed one. They keep the small feeder roots 
moist longer than a clay pot and prevent over-watering for the 
beginner. Over-watering sours the soil and the soured plant attracts 
the dreaded mealy bug A 4” by 3” deep mixing bowl with a hole 
drilled in the bottom makes an ideal container for most varieties. 
(7) Yes—turn your violet. At best it gets only a one sided 
light and as both or all sides need equal light, turning it occasionally 
is the best you can do in a window. 
No two successful African Violet hobbyists use the same 
soil or fertilizer; yet, this versatile little plant must like the method 
used or it just refuses to thrive. The heat and moisture in your 
home, window location and accessibility to the different soils will 
determine your own method and expericnce will have to be your 
best teacher. These hints I have given you are just a few guide 
posts. If they have helped you along what is an uncharted path I 
will fee! well repaid for my efforts. 
