PLANTING 
The grape, more than any other fruit, responds to good 
care, and this begins with planting. 
The site, if possible, should be chosen with care. Warm 
soils are desirable, not too rich, with a reasonable amount 
of humus and above all, good drainage. Almost all varieties 
dislike wet feet. A location subject to late spring frosts 
should be avoided. Generally speaking, the grape is well a- 
dapted to most soils, only a few varieties being particular 
in their requirements. 
As most of us want only a few vines for home use, we 
must get along with what ground we have. Commercial growers 
will find complete information in the splendid books avail- 
able, or from their State Experiment Stations. 
The land should be well worked and in the best possible 
physical condition before planting. For the home vineyard 
the usual spacing is 8 x 8 feet; if power tools are to be 
used, 10 feet between rows will be much better. Rows should 
be as long as the plot permits with turning space left at 
each end. The direction of the row is usually dictated by 
the contour of the land. In the North, if there may be a 
choice, a north-south direction will give the vines a little 
more sun. In areas with a strong prevailing wind during the 
growing season, it is best to run the rows with the wind. 
We prefer planting in the early spring, but it is quite 
true that fall planting is successful somewhat south of our 
location. 
One year vines are the best to plant, altho some weaker 
varieties may benefit by spending two years in the nursery. 
Never buy so-called bearing age vines--you are just throwing 
your money away. Vines should have good tops and a husky 
root system, but nothing is gained by planting those with 
excessive growth. If the vines are dry when received, soak 
roots overnight in fresh water, then heel in at a convient 
spot until ready to plant. When ready to plant, cut the top 
to a single trunk as straight as possible and leave two buds 
only. The roots should be trimmed back to not more than a 
few inches, removing all shorter injured parts. Each hole 
should be freshly dug, the top and sub-soil being kept sep- 
arate. Set the plant in the exact spot desired, spread the 
roots and cover with a spadeful of top soil. Use no manure 
or fertilizer in the hole. Tramp the soil over the roots, 
finish filling the hole and tramp down. If .the ground is 
dry, water liberaly, at least a gallon to the vine. Then 
mulch around it with loose soil. Care should be taken that 
the vine is not set too deep or too shallow. Slightly deep- 
er than it stood in the nursery is about right. 
The first season is most important. Absolutely clean 
cultivation will pay good dividends. While one may grow a 
cultivated crop between the rows, we feel that the best 
practice is to use the available food and water for the vine. 
One may, if desired, place a small stake beside each vine, 
(if the trellis is not to be erected until the next season), 
select the strongest shoot and keep it tied as it grows. 
However, we incline to the method of establishing the trunk 
the second season, when the root system will be vigorous 
enough to make a strong straight cane for the purpose. 
At the end of the first season's growth, one selects the 
straightest, sturdiest cane and prunes again to two buds. It 
appears that nothing has been gained, but that is far from 
the truth. The vine now has a husky and vigorous root system 
and will be ready to perform the work demanded of it. This 
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