IRIS CULTURE 
WHEN TO PLANT. For best results plant July through 
September. Early planting establishes the new Iris 
plants before winter. This is the time to reset clumps 
of Iris that are crowded, generally clumps 3 to 4 years 
old. In the extreme heat of the South, it is more advis- 
able to plant after the extremes of summer heat are 
over—September is recommended. 
WHERE TO PLANT. The ideal location for your Ivis is 
a sunny, well drained position. Sunshine, at a mini- 
mum half days; Iris will not do well in the deep shade. 
No water should stand in your Ivis beds. Raise beds 
slightly above the level of your garden paths if necessary. 
DEPTH TO PLANT. Place your rhizomes just below the 
surface of the ground with the roots well spread out 
underneath so the rhizome is within reach of the 
warmth of the sun’s rays while the roots beneath are 
in moist (not soggy) soil. Be sure to firm the soil tightly 
around each rhizome when planting. Follow ordinary 
good garden practice of watering and setting soil on 
newly set plants, of course. 
DISTANCE APART. Depends on your particular plans. 
Generally Iris are planted from 8 inches to 2 feet apart. 
Closer plantings are for immediate effect and will need 
thinning sooner. Plant three of one kind to give an 
immediate clump effect in a triangle with the toes of 
the rhizomes pointing inward. Place 8 inches apart. 
Planted 2 feet or more apart they may be left for 
longer periods of time. 
SHOULD OLD CLUMPS BE THINNED. Yes, after they 
become crowded, about every four years. Dig up clumps, 
remove and discard the old center divisions that have 
blossomed and replant the fresh, largest foliage fans 
after the soil has been renovated. If you wish, the old 
center rhizomes and smaller fans may be grown in a 
nursery row a year, cut apart to single or double units. 
SOIL PREPARATION. Work soil well to a depth of 10 to 
19 
2 inches. If soil is heavy, incorporate sand so moisture 
percolates out quickly. The soil should not be acid. If 
it is, apply lime, otherwise no lime is recommended. 
FERTILIZATION. Ivis will thrive without feeding but will 
respond to its application. In the matter of fertilizers, 
garden sense should be used in liberal quantity. A nice 
garden soil will grow fine Iris. Use care not to get nitro- 
genous materials on or near the roots, rot may start. 
An excessively heavy nitrogenous feeding will give very 
lush growth which is more susceptible to rot. In the 
preparation of your new Iris bed, spade in a good 
application of compost below the roots. Well processed 
compost is ideal. Then an application of a well 
balanced fertilizer applied as a top dressing dusted 
around and in between the plants in early spring or 
very late fall is desirable. Steamed bone meal and 
super-phosphate are fine top dressing materials. The 
compost furnishes humus and valuable soil organisms. 
We have found the yearly spring application of gypsum, 
just as growth starts, has always been helpful as an 
antidote for Iris troubles; it also helps as a soil condi- 
tioner. It is easy to overdo Iris fertilizing, but unde- 
sirable to omit feeding entirely. 
CULTIVATING, Yo it shallowly. Iris feeding roots are very 
near the surface. Keep your Iris free of weeds and do 
not allow neighboring plants to encroach upon them. 
Remember, they should have sunlight right down to 
the rhizome. Remove the outer leaves as they begin 
to brown. At all times keep litter, old Iris leaves, 
grasses, etc., away from the rhizomes. Clean cultivation 
is the finest precaution for Iris troubles. 
GENERAL GARDEN CARE. We prefer to cultivate shal- 
lowly after each rain when the ground has dried suffi- 
ciently for proper tilth. As the Iris grow, the outside 
foliage becomes limp. We remove these outside leaves 
every so often. Particularly about two weeks after bloom- 
ing time. We do not trim the Iris foliage on established 
plants except to cut off some leaf spot should that show 
up. Bloom stems are cut level with the ground after 
blooming on a dry day so the cut heals quickly. 
WATERING. Depends on location. Newly set plants need 
moisture so they can grow a new root system. They 
appreciate this attention. Water at fairly long intervals 
in dry weather. Established plants do not require 
watering except in very arid parts of the country. The 
common mistake is to give the Iris too much water. At 
times of excessive heat newly set plants can be shaded 
by an upright shingle or some such protection cutting 
off the direct rays of the sun for a few days. 
IRIS BORER—USE DDT! We would like to quote from 
Bulletin No. 2 of Region 1, New England Section, of 
the American Iris Society. The article by Dr. I. Fraim 
gives the following recommendations and procedures: 
“We are convinced that at recommended strength of 
suspension and routine application which we have out- 
lined borers can be almost completely controlled. Hap- 
hazard spraying cannot be effective. Larvae must be 
intercepted before entering the leaf fans, and to bring 
this about spraying or dusting must be started early in 
the spring after the first warm period, and continue 
weekly until blooming season. We believe the spray 
must be applied the first time immediately after the 
first warm period in late March or early April in this 
area. Not only the Iris should be sprayed, but, at least 
of equal importance, the contiguous soil, plants, shrubs 
and any other material nearby. Thereafter weekly 
applications should be made. If rain interferes, spray 
should be applied as soon as the weather clears. Form- 
ula for the ordinary 3-gallon pressure tanks as follows: 
DDT WETTABLE 50%-—6 heaping tablespoonfuls. 
Water—3 gallons. Sticker Spreader—as directed on con- 
tainer. Du Pont Sticker suggested. The DDT should 
be made into a paste and added to the water. Frequent 
agitation is necessary to maintain a good uniform mix- 
ture. If you prefer to use dust, 5% WETTABLE DDT, 
applied early in the day is best.” 
We think these suggestions are most helpful and lucid. 
Do not just try one or two sprayings and expect controls. 
WINTER PROTECTION. We strongly advocate protective 
winter covering, particularly in the most northern sec- 
tions. A light covering of marsh hay, straw, or some 
like weed-free litter is highly advised. New set plants 
in particular must be protected as a preventative to 
the injury caused by freezing and thawing. Remove 
covering when spring growth begins. 
TO THE BEGINNER. Ivis are one of the easiest perennials 
to grow. They survive with less care and reward you 
with fine bloom with a minimum of attention. These 
few suggestions are all simple and proper care is very 
easy. Treat yourself to some of the finer Ivis that have 
been developed recently. 
AN IRIS BOOK 
A fine book: “THE IRIS—AN IDEAL HARDY 
PERENNIAL.” Contains a wealth of information in 
its 224 pages on culture, fertilization, disease control, 
companion plantings, color harmony, border planting, 
hybridization, elementary genetics and a host of re- 
lated subjects. 
Permanent Binding, $2.50; Paper Binding, $1.50 
THE AMERICAN IRIS SOCIETY 
Issues four fine bulletins a year which are filled with 
interesting information. 
Membership fee, $3.50 per year 
THE HEMEROCALLIS SOCIETY 
Those interested in Daylilies will find the “YEAR- 
BOOK” published by this society most informative. 
Membership fee, $3.00 per year 
You can send your remittance to us for the book or 
membership in the Societies and we will forward it 
» for you. 
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