In bulk at money-saving prices. 
Special quotations to market gardeners. 
Prices subject to change without notice. 

TOMATOES 
Do best in shady, well pulverized 
loam. Sow seed in hotbed or indoors. 
When plants are about 2” high, set out, 
3” apart, in boxes or pots—later trans- 
plant into the garden. Or keep in flats 
until all danger of frost is past, and 
then set plants out directly into the 
garden. Water around the roots of the 
plants when setting them out, if ground 
is dry, Cultivate frequently until plants 
shade the ground. Remove all but the 
two or three strongest branches. Study 
methods of staking and training vines 
and adopt the one best suited to your 
situation. 
Beefsteak—Rich scarlet-red, extra large 
fruits, more or less ribbed. Juicy, solid, 
with rich sub-acid flavor. One of the 
best for home use. 90 days. 
2 
Bonny Best—Second early variety, valu- 
able for canners, Medium-vine not very 
hardy. Medium-sized, apple-shaped, 
solid -fruits bright scarlet, 73 days. 
Break O’ Day—Medium size, scarlet 
smooth, round fruits. Wilt resistant. 
Vigorous and prolific, 70 days. 

Continued from Page 15 
PARSNIPS 
Must be planted as early as ground can 
be worked. Soil must be loose to a 
depth of 12’’ and cannot be heavy. Space 
S’’ apart. Cold weather turns’ starches into 
sugar and improves flavor. Roots are 
hardy: leave in ground over winter if 
desired. 
PEAS 
Plant variety Alaska as soon as ground 
can be dug. Plant wrinkled varieties 
(which have better flavor) when narcissus 
buds show color or when crocuses are in 
bloom. Peas are not satisfactory when 
weather turns hot. Tall varieties must be 
staked. Peas want well-limed soil. Don’t 
forget, inoculation improves production. 
PEPPERS 
Need long growing season: start indoors 
8 weeks before plants are wanted. Set 
out after weather has become warm and 
settled. Set plants 15’’ x 24'’ and feed 
liberally for bigger fruits. 
PUMPKINS 
Follow muskmelon culture, 
corn.after last cultivation, 
or plant in 
RADISHES 
As a rule the first crop to mature: plant 
as early as soil can be dug. Feed liber- 
ally for quick growth. Sow a 10 foot row 
every ten days until weather’ turns 
warm. Start planting again with the com- 
ing of cool weather in fall, The fall and 
46 
Jubilee — Orange colored fruit. Juicy 
with few- seeds. Weighs about 6 oz. 
Bears over a long season. 72 days, 
Marglobe—Moderately productive, with 
heavy foliage. Vigorous and resistant 
to wilt and rust. Fruits medium large, 
nearly round, smooth, and solid. Deep 
red. 77 days. 
Pritchard's, Scarlet Topper—Medium to 
large, round, with thick, firm flesh and 
small seed cavities. Brilliant red 
throughout, coloring right to top with- 
out hard green spots. Free from acidiy, 
one of the best home canners, Early. 
Puget Sound Special Earliana—Open, 
spreading, medium small vines. Red 
fruits run to medium size. This seed is 
selected for thick, smooth fruit. 66 days. 

Bonny Best Tomatoes 
Rutgers—Second early variety. Large 
thick stems, vigorous foliage. Fruits 
similar to Marglobe but flatter at stem 
end. Bright red, with thick walls. Red, 
firm flesh, low acidity. 72 days. 
Re MCPUaN IN CMeLe|8 Where? Why? 
winter types are sown in mid-summer to 
mature in fall for storage. 
SPINACH 
Seed in fall (protect with straw) or in 
very early spring. Must mature before 
hot weather, 
Spinach (New Zealand) 
While this crop grows freely in hot 
weather, it will not germinate except 
when soil temperatures are below 70 
degrees. Hence it should be sown with 
the half-hardy crops— Those that are 
planted when the narcissi bloom. Plant 
in soil with plenty of organic matter, 
spacing the plants about 3 feet by 3 
feet. Keep them cut back, since only the 
young growing tips are eaten and long, 
woody stems have little flavor. Many who 
have tried a mixture of half Swiss Chard 
and half New Zealand Spinach say that 
this is better than either vegetable alone. 
SQUASH 
Follow culture given for muskmelon for 
vine types. Grow bush types in rows, 
spaced 24’’ apart. Keep picked. Will bear 
all summer. 
TURNIPS 
Follow directions for radishes, 
can be cooked for greens. 
Thinnings 
TOMATOES 
There are two schools of tomato culture— 
those who stake and those who don’t. 
Reasons for and against are as follows: 
FOR STAKING: While staked plants pro- 
duce fewer fruits per plant, they produce 
more tomatoes for a given area. So if 
New Stone—Medium late. Popular with 
canners. Ripens evenly. Fruits large, 
flattened. Scarlet red. Fine flavor, 86 
days. 
Victor—Round smooth, scarlet. Early. 
38-inch fruits. Excellent for home and 
market. 65 days. 
Small Fruited 
Ground Cherry—Small yellow fruit en- 
closed in a husk. Very sweet, prized 
for eating, making pies and preserves. 
TURNIP 
For summer greens or roots, sow as 
early as radishes and lettuce. Then 
cut when plants are 6” high. Sow 
again in summer for fall and winter 
use. Turnips do best when most of 
their growth is made in autumn or 
early spring. Should be grown rapidly 
for best flavor and texture. 
Purple Top White Globe (fr)}—All pur- 
pose variety. Large, sweet tops. Smooth 
globe-shaped roots, purple-red above, 
white below. Sweet, tender, crisp, white 
flesh. 50 to 60 days. — 
Snowball—Small, erect tops. Medium 
sized roots, round, white throughout 
crisp and tender, 45 days. 
Yellow Aberdeen—A fine winter turnip. 
Root is globe shaped, pale yellow, firm. 
Leaves are cut. Skin is yellow with 
purple top. 80 days. 
Rutabaga or Swede Turnip 
Lilly’s King of Swedes—Hardy and pro- 
ductive. Tender firm, light yellow sweet 
flesh, 88 days. 
room is at a premium, it will pay to 
stake. Staked plants usually produce 
cleaner fruits and bear somewhat earlier. 
AGAINST: Staking calls for much extra 
labor in staking, tying and pruning. The 
total production per plant is higher in un- 
staked and unpruned plants. If you have 
plenty of room, the saving in labor makes 
the unstaked*method the best. All com- 
mercial canning crops of tomatoes are 
grown in this way. If the ground under 
the vines is covered with a mulch of clean 
straw, this will improve the quality of the 
fruits and will also keep weeds down and 
save moisture 
When staking, set plants 18 apart in 
the row, in rows 3 feet apart. Use a 7 
foot stake, driven 1 foot into the ground. 
Tie plant to stake with soft twine or other 
plant tie. Habit of growth calls for a side 
shoot from the first point where a leaf 
joins the main stem, another side shoot 
from the second leaf joint, and a flower 
cluster from the third joint. This 2-1 pat- 
tern of growth is repeated up the entire 
stem. The staked plant is allowed to 
grow from the tip, and as it grows, the 
stem is tied to the stake. As the side 
shoots appear, these are pinched out or- 
rubbed off, leaving the flower clusters to 
produce fruits. When training tomatoes to 
stakes, be sure to leave all possible foli- 
age to hide the fruits from direct sun- 
shine; otherwise they will sunscald. 
When grown without staking, the vines 
will sprawl on the ground. .This means 
they will need more room, Three feet 
between plants and four feet between 
rows will not be too much ground to use 
if you can spare the room, 
L 
