
SWEET PEAS 
SWEET PEAS, Mixed 
(a) Culture III, 3-5' 
Orchid Flowered Spencer mixed—A 
complete blend of all colors in the 
popular Spencer strain. For those who 
want all colors, 
Burpee mixed—A choice blend of colors 
from the leading sweet pea specialist 
in the world. Many new and unusual 
colors. Fine for garden or cutting. Pkt. 
yey 
Fluffy Ruffled mixed—A colorful blend 
of a new strain with ruffled and wavy 
petals. Has an appearance of many 
double flowers. A lovely and distinct 
type of sweet pea for garden or bou- 
quets. 
Cuthbertson, mixed—A new strain origi- 
nated to flower all summer long. Heat 
resistant. Large flowers in many showy 
colors. An outstanding development. 
Pkie25c. 
SWEET PEAS, Selected Colors 
These are the best of many varieties 
tested by us. Each is the leader in its 
color. These are the famous Orchid 
Flowering Spencer type. 
Ambition—A large flowered, fragrant 
variety with clear deep lilac-lavender 
flowers, A favorite. 
Damask Rose —Numerous_ exhibition 
type blooms and heavy foliage make 
this outstanding. The color is a glorious 
cerise-rose. 
Gleneagles—Long stemmed flowers of 
a beautiful silvery blue. 
Loch Lomond—A new variety in a 
striking shade of mahogany. 
Picture—A beautiful flower in a dainty 
cream pink shading to apricot. 
Pirate Gold—A new variety in a fine 
rich deep orange color. 
Red Boy—The large beautiful flowers 
borne on study stems are a deep rich 
crimson. 
Sextet Queen—A free bloomer produc- 
ing many glistening white frilled flow- 
ers. 
Shirley Temple—An early blooming 
large flowered variety. Flowers are a 
beautiful clear pink. 
Smiles—A vigorous grower with waved 
blooms of a salmon-shrimp pink. 
Welcome—The large blooms 
brilliant orange scarlet. 
L 
are a 
What Joy—Heavily waved blooms in 
a lovely primrose yellow with creamy 
shadings. Deepest of the yellows. 
SWEET SULTAN 
(a) Culture II or IV, 214’ 
Mixed—Lovely colorful thistle shaped 
flowers, Easily grown. 
SWEET WILLIAM—Dianthus 
Barbatus 
(hp) Culture VI, 14-2’ 
Single—Lovely single pinks in large flat 
clusters, Fine for cutting. 
VERBENA 
(a) Culture I, 8” 
Mixed—Huge flower clusters, all colors. 
Ideal for beds and borders, Pkt. 15c. 
VIOLA 
(hp) Culture VI, 10-12" 
Cornuta—Sometimes called tufted pan- 
sies. Flowers are like miniature pansies. 
Plants have a tufted habit. Ideal for 
rock gardens and partially shaded spots. 
VIRGINIA STOCKS—Malcomia 
(a) Culture II, 10” 
A fine plant for edging, massing and 
cutting. Grows quickly and blooms for 
weeks. Flowers in rose and white have 
veins of deeper colors, 
WALLFLOWER 
(a) Culture I or V, iA" 
Mixed—Blood-red and yellow flowers. 
Resemble single stocks. Early and 
fragrant. 
WILD FLOWER GARDEN 
(a) Culture II or II, V%-3 
Old fashioned flowers in a fine mixture 
for all season flowering. Sow thinly 
and enjoy continuous flowers and de- 
lightful surprises. These are not wild 
flowers of the fields but a selection of 
garden flowers that gives a “wild” 
garden look when planted in a border. 
A good way to get acquainted with 
some of the unusual kinds of garden 
flowers, 

ZINNIA, Dahlia-Flowered 
ZINNIA 
(a) Culture I or II, 12-30" 
Double Giant mixed—A mixture of the 
largest and finest varieties in the large 
zinnias. Flowers are massive, well 
formed and brilliantly colored, Fine for 
the garden or for cutting. 
Fantasy mixed—Shaggy flowers are 
graceful and interesting. The medium 
size flowers are distinctly different and 
come in a range of colors from the 
brightest to the sofiest, 
nae 
Dahlia Flowered mixed—Huge flowers 
with broad overlapping petals. Includes 
a great range of vivid colors, 
Dahlia Flowered Crimson—A rich crim- 
son. Best of the red shades. Mammoth 
blooms, 
Dahlia Flowered Oriole—An immense 
flower of orange and gold colors. 
Dahlia Flowered Purple—A rich deep 
reddish purple. Striking. 
Dahlia Flowered deep pink—A fine rose 
pink that is a favorite, 
Lilliput or Pompon mixed—Dwarf grow- 
ers with many flowers of miniature size 
and shape, Free blooming. Many fine 
colors. 

Transplanting 
DON’T assume that transplanting is worth 
doing for itself alone. Transplanting is 
like an operation to a human being: the 
plant must recover from _ post-operative 
shock before it can take hold and start 
growing again. The only value in trans- 
planting is that it allows you to use 
larger plants—important in short seasons. 
If there is ever any question as to 
whether to direct-seed or to transplant, 
always direct-seed unless quicker ma- 
turity is a factor, Even tomatoes, the 
crop most cften transplanted, will usually 
produce as quickly from seed sown in 
the open as they will from transplants, 
which must grow new roots before they 
can begin growing again. 
DO use good seedlings if you must trans- 
plant. They should be medium green 
in color, not too tall, and the leaves 
should be free from spots or dead areas. 
Avoid seedlings that are reddened or 
purplish in color, or show signs of yellow- 
ing except in the case of celery plants, 
which can be quite yellow and still be 
good). 
If you want to grow your own trans- 
plants to get healthy stock, follow these 
directions: 
DON’T BEGIN too soon, unless you have 
a greenhouse or light hotbed and can 
give the seedlings plenty of room. For 
most vegetables, 6 to 7 weeks is time 
enough to allow between seeding and 
transplanting. Most homes are too dark, 
so don't try to grow seedlings unless 
you can do it in a sunny window that 
gets direct sunshine for a least six hours. 
Fill shallow boxes (flats) with a mixture 
of 1/3 good garden soil, 1 /3 clean sand 
and 1/3 compost, leaf mould or other 
well-rooted organic matter. Make very 
shallow rows or furrows with the edge of 
a ruler or a wood lathe, 3” apart. Sow 
seeds in these rows 1” apart in the row. 
For most plants, a temperature of 70 de- 
grees is a good compromise. 
DON'T let your soil dry out, and don’t 
let it be soggy. Spray lightly two or 
three times a day, using an atomizer or 
bulb sprinkler, When the best seedlings 
can be selected, thin out to stand 2” to 3” 
apart. Before transplanting into the gar- 
den, withhold water for 2 or 3 days. In 
transplanting, set the plants firmly by 
pressing on both sides of the stem with 
forefinger and thumb. If not firmed thor- 
oughly, seedling may be killed by being 
hung with an air space underneath, 
Always try to save as many leaves and 
roots as possible. Scientific tests show 
that it is better to allow the transplant to 
wilt slightly than to remove leaves to 
prevent that wilting. Removing leaves 
slows up manufacture of plant food that 
will help plant recover. Liberal watering 
should prevent wilting. 

After Transplanting 
As soon as the garden has been planted, 
water thoroughly but gently with a fine 
spray. This, by ihe way, is the only time 
we sprinkle a garden; once the plants 
are established, any watering should give 
the soil a good soaking. If a crust forms 
after watering, break this by working 
with a hoe or cultivator on both sides of 
the row, 
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