A FEW SIMPLE SUGGESTIONS RELATIVE TO 
GLADIOLUS CULTURE 
1. SOIL. The gladiolus is not choosey. Any good soil for vegetables is 
good for glads. 
2. LOCATION. Keep away from buildings, fences, trees, hedges and 
shade of all kinds. Give the glad full sunshine, well drained soil, and reason- 
ably loose ground. 
3. SOIL PREPARATION. The same as for any garden stuff. 
4. PREPARATION OF BULBS AND BULBLETS. It is not necessary to 
remove the husks before planting. Do not plant a diseased bulb, or one that 
is scrawny. Plant only healthy, solid bulbs. 
5. PLANTING. In light soil plant about six inches deep. Five inches is 
deep enough in heavy soil. Of course they will grow in shallow planting, 
but are more likely to blow over, and will not withstand a drought as well as 
in deep planting. Space large bulbs about two to the foot, and space rows 
to suit cultivation convenience. Plant bulblets in trenches two inches deep, 
sow thickly in the row, and cultivate often. 
6. FERTILIZING. Do not over fertilize. That is easily done. Ordinary 
good vegetable soil is good enough for glads. If you want to grow show spikes 
consult a grower who shows. There is nothing better than well rotted barn- 
yard manure. 
%. CULTIVATION. No plant is more appreciative of good cultivation, 
or more responsive, than the glad. Keep the soil loose after every rain, and 
constantly loose during drought periods, Do not sprinkle—if you apply water 
at all, give the ground a deep soaking, then when dry enough cultivate. Do 
this about once a week or ten days in drought for best results. 
8. FIELD OBSERVATIONS. Keep your eyes open for lost labels, dis- 
eased plants (those turning yellow and dying), strays (pull them out). 
9. CUTTING AND CURING THE CUT FLOWERS. Best to cut early in 
the morning, and place them in a cool place deep in water for a few hours. 
They continue to open out better if the spikes are occasionally cut back an 
inch or so on the slant, and given fresh water. The tip ends of the spikes may 
be cut short and put in shallow bowls and thus make a beautiful center piece 
for the table. 
10. DIGGING. It is better to dig while the foliage is green, as one can 
then determine the diseased plants and throw them out. The bulbs also lift 
out of the ground better than when the tops have died. Cut the tops off 
immediately when dug as close to the bulb as is possible. Let the bulbs dry 
in shallow boxes, not over three inches deep, in an airy, cool place, then re- 
move the old bulbs roots and bulblets, and put the cleaned bulbs in storage 
where the temperature remains low but without danger of freezing. Forty 
degrees is the ideal temperature for storage. 
11. DUSTING. It is good to dust the cleaned bulbs with a 5% DDT 
preparation. Use any ordinary hand duster, Leave it on them until planting. 
12. CHEMICAL TREATMENT OF BULBS. This is begun with the dust- 
ing when placed in storage. Then at planting time dip them in some good 
fungicide and insecticide. I recommend Lysol as the most convenient and 
effective for ordinary use. 
One teaspoonful to the gallon of water makes an effective dip. Leave the 
bulbs in this solution for six to eight hours, and a longer period will not in- 
jure them. In the field use DDT of 5% or 3%, in either dust or liquid form. 
I prefer dusting—much lighter work, and fully as effective. Begin treatment 
when the plants are around six to ten inches high, and apply several times, 
perhaps once a week for a couple of times, then less frequently. My exper- 
ience is that the three or four applications are sufficient, but some growers 
keep it up until the flowers begin to open. With DDT there is no need for 
anyone having thrips trouble, or any other insect trouble. 
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