


Gladiolus Core and Culture 
(Revised to September, 1948) 
When bulbs are received they should be opened at once and stored in a cool, dry place. About a week later 
check them over for frost damage. Best storage temperature is about 40 degrees. 
PLANTING TIME: This is in general when the soil is warmed up in the spring. In Central New York it 
may be any time from April Ist to July lst, depending upon the time bloom is wanted in the summer and the variety 
planted. Comparative blooming dates are listed after varieties in the retail list. The average planting date here is 
ie May 15th to May 30th. A good rule to follow is to ynake your earliest planting when the Maple trees begin to 
leaf out. 
THE BEST PLACE TO PLANT: Is where they will have full sun, as they do their best if they have no 
competition from trees or shrubs nearby. A soil that will grow good potatoes will be most satisfactory but Glads are 
very tolerant in their soil requirements. Good drainage is essential to best performance. Glads like lots of water at 
blooming time but can’t stand wet feet. They grow best in neutral soil but will also do well where it is slightly 
sweet or slightly acid. 
DISINFECTING: Bulbs should be clean when planted. If there are thrip on them they should be killed. 
5% DDT Dust with talc is a perfectly safe treatment at any stage and the dust does no harm if planted on the bulbs. 
It will kill thrip if used on the bulbs in storage. Best method is to sprinkle dust on them when they are taken in 
from the field in the fall and then give them another shot after they have been cleaned. But to be absolutely sure, 
dust any bulbs you get during the winter regardless of the source. Most diseases of Gladiolus are of a fungous na- 
ture. These are spread through spores, tiny organisms which are checked by fungicides. The usual method of treat- 
ment is a pre-planting dip. We use New Improved Ceresan, but Lysol, Cresol Compound or Corrosive Sublimate are 
used by many growers. These dips are used to control disease and are not necessarily a thrip control. The only 
thrip you kill with the dip are those you drown. The eggs still remain to hatch and cause you trouble. 
NEW IMPROVED CERESAN FORMULA: One ounce of New Improved Ceresan, 3 tablespoons of 
Grasselli Spreader-Sticker (or 1% box of DREFT), 3 gallons of water. For larger quantities: 4% lb. New Improved 
Ceresan, 5 tablespoons (or 1 box of Dreft), 25 gallons »f water. Soak bulbs 15 minutes, Bulblets 30 minutes. DO 
NOT EXCEED THIS TIME! Let drain and plant same day, while wet if possible. If you cannot plant within a very 
few hours, rinse thoroughly and do not soak again. Severe losses can happen unless you follow the above directions 
very carefully. To mix above formulas easily, add the spreader to the Ceresan with a small amount of water and 
stir until a smooth paste is formed; then add the rest of the water. When stirring this do not use the hands, as the 
concentrated mixture can cause serious burns. Use a wooden paddle. Bulbs treated in the weak solution can be 
handled safely. DO NOT FORGET you may lose your bulbs if you leave them in the solution longer than 15 minutes 
or 30 minutes for bulblets. 
LYSOL: For most amateurs this is probably the easiest and safest dip to use. One teaspoon of Lysol to 1 
quart of water; 4 tablespoons to 4 gallons of water; 1 pint of Lysol to 25 gallons of water. Soak bulbs in solution 
from 3 to 6 hours, bulblets 12 to 14 hours. Plant the same day as treated, while wet if possible. Solution good for 
five lots. 
CRESOL COMPOUND wyy be substituted for Lysol in the above formula, same quantity. Your local 
druggist can supply LYSOL, we can supply CRESOL COMPOUND. 
Have a Supply of Dipping Materials Shipped With Your Order 
—— 0 O 0 ———— 
SOIL PREPARATION: A good coat of well rotted stable manure plowed or spaded under the fall before 
planting is a very good start. The soil should be plowed or spaded deeply to give the roots opportunity to secure food 
and moisture at a lower level. If manure cannot be obtained, peat moss can be used for humus with a good commer- 
cial fertilizer such as 4-8-8 or 4-12-8 for bloom production and 4-8-12 for production of bulbs. Any garden compost 
will serve as good humus or a cover crop of rye, clover, soybeans or rye grass, plowed under the year before is ex- 
cellent. 
For bloom production, on medium to heavy soil, one half the fertilizer should be broadcast on top before plowing 
or spading, and the balance before fitting the ground. This should give excellent results. For exhibition bloom some 
like to put part of the fertilizer in the bottom of the trench mixed with the soil and an inch or so of peat moss on 
top for humus. Most of our soils are deficient in humus and peat moss is an excellent aid in building up this lack, 
retaining moisture in light, sandy soils and loosening up the heavier clay types. Most of our special planting plots 
would be much improved by this method. It is especially valuable in growing bulblets or Gladiolus seed. 
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