ing them out as far as branches grow. 
Pour fertilizer in holes, cover with soil 
and irrigate. 
PEST CONTROL. See PEST 
CONTROL under GENERAL IN- 
FORMATION. : 
PRUNING. We suggest you pur- 
chase “How to Prune Fruit Trees” by 
R. Sanford Martin. This book gives de- 
tailed descriptions and illustrations of 
all fruit tree pruning operations. We 
have the book, price, $1.25. 
POLLENIZATION. Most varieties 
of fruit and nut trees are self fertile and 
one tree will bear satisfactorily by itself. 
However, Tartarian Cherry should be 
planted with other varieties of sweet 
cherries. Bartlett Pear will produce 
more satisfactorily if combined with 
Beurre d’Anjou or Winter Nelis. Most 
plum varieties require no cross polleni- 
zation, but plant Santa Rosa with Becky 
Smith, Wickson with Satsuma. For 
best results plant two varieties of 
prunes. Almonds, plant Jordanola with 
Ne Plus Ultra. 

WHEN TO PLANT. January, Feb- 
ruary, March. 
PLANTING DISTANCE. Crandall 
Blackberry, Boysenberry, Youngberry, 
Thornless Logan, 5 to 6 feet; Rasp- 
berries, 3 to 4 feet; Strawberries, 1 to 2 
feet apart in rows, rows 2 feet apart. 
PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS. 
(All Berries except Strawberry.) Plow 
or spade soil to a depth of 8 to 12 inches. 
Stretch a string or wire so as to have 
straight rows. Dig holes the required 
distance apart, making them 4 inches 
deeper than is necessary to accommo- 
date the berry roots. Place 2: inches, 
half soil and half manure, in bottom of 
hole. Tamp firmly. Then add 2 inches of 
top soil. Firm down. Plant berry bush to 
same depth it was growing in the nurs- 
ery. Difference of color of stem will 
indicate where this point is. Make fur- 
row on either side of row, close to 
plants. Irrigate thoroughly. Repeat ir- 
rigation in 3 days and as often there- 
after as necessary. General purpose 
fertilizer may be applied, 2 teaspoonfuls 
per plant, when berries have grown to 
about 6 inches in height. In succeeding 
springs 1 to 3 cupfuls may be applied 
just after plants have begun to grow. 
Generous quantities of manure may be 
used between the rows. 
PRUNING AND TRELLISING. 
All varieties except the black raspber- 
ries and Crandall Blackberry should be 
tied to trellis or fence the winter follow- 
ing planting. The second winter all of 
the canes which were tied up the past 
winter (these were the canes which 
bore fruit), should be cut to the ground 
and the new canes which grew during 
the previous summer should be tied to 
the trellis or fence. If canes are too 
numerous, remove the weaker ones. The 
foregoing operations are repeated each 
year CRANDALI BLACK BERRY; 
requires no support. 
PEST CONTROL. Spray with dor- 
mant strength lime sulphur about Janu- 
arya 
Same procedure as for other berries, 
above, except that no manure should be 
in ground before planting (unless 
spaded in 2 months in advance). Add 
a general purpose fertilizer, 1 teaspoon- 
ful per plant, 2 months after planting. 
The second and third years after plant- 
ing 1 pound of fertilizer may be used, 
in early spring, for each 10 feet of row. 
Allow each plant to form 3 new plants 
from runners, keep all other runners 
removed. At the end of the third season 
the strawberry bed should be spaded up 
and replanted, preferably in another 
location. Irrigate heavily during the 
fruiting season. 
Grapes 

fall into two types—those that may be 
grown on fence, trellis or arbor, and 
those that are grown as bushes without 
support. 
WHEN TO PLANT. January, Feb- 
ruary, March. Some varieties obtain- 
able in containers and may be planted 
at any time. 
PLANTING. See PLANTING un- 
der GENERAL INFORMATION but 
plant vines so that the point where top 
growth leaves the stem is 2 inches 
above ground. 
DISTANCE APART. Grapes to be 
trellised, and the following varieties 
may be grown in that manner (Black 
Monukka, Flame Tokay, Ribier, 
Thompson Seedless) should be planted 
from 6 to 10 feet apart. American 
Grapes, Concord, Niagara, etc., must be 
grown on fence, arbor or trellis. Varie- 
ties to be grown as bushes should be 
grown from 5 to 7 feet distant from 
each other. 
IRRIGATION. After becoming es- 
tablished, grapes require little or no 
irrigation if clean cultivation is prac- 
ticed. 
FERTILIZATION. The spring after 
planting and as soon as the plants be- 
gin to show growth add 1 level table- 
spoonful of Gro-Master per plant. In 
following springs from 1 cup to 1 pound 
of Gro-Master may be used. 
DISEASE CONTROL. The year 
after planting dust vines with Dusting 
Sulphur when vines have put on-spring 
growth to 6 or 8 inches in length, again 
when runners are 12 to 15 inches long. 
After this dust twice, at 2 week inter- 
vals, again when fruit is half grown 
and still again just before fruit is ripe. 
American varieties (Concord, Dela- 
ware, Niagara, etc.) require no dusting. 
PRUNING. See PRUNING under 
GENERAL INFORMATION. 

WHEN TO PLANT. Dormant, 
bare-root roses should be planted dur- 
ing January, February, and March. 
Plants in containers may be obtained 
during other months. 
WHERE TO PLANT. Roses prefer 
a sunny spot with good air circulation. 
If necessary to plant in a rather shaded 
spot, the varieties with glossy foilage 
such as Feu Joseph Looymans, Hinrich 
Gaede, Lady Forteviot, Signora, Ville 
de Paris are more suitable. 
DISTANCE APART. Bush roses 
should be spaced 2% feet apart; Climb- 
ing roses 10 feet; Tree roses not closer 
than 6 feet. 
PLANTING. If bed can be prepared 
2 or 3 months in advance of planting, 
spread several inches of cow or steer 
manure over the top of the selected 
spot, also about one pound of Bone 
Meal for each bush to be planted. Then 
spade to a depth of one foot or more. 
If roses are to be planted soon after bed 
is prepared, spade the soil as above. 
Dig holes twice as wide as, and 8 inches 
deeper than is necessary to accommo- 
date the roots. Place four inches of top 
soil and steer manure, half and half, in 
bottom of hole, then 4 inches of top soil. 
Tamp soil. Then plant rose bush, mix- 
ing 1 cup of bone meal thoroughly with 
top soil that is used to fill rest of hole. 
Leave bud union just above the ground. 
Press soil firmly about roots. Water at 
once, thoroughly. 
Bare-root roses should be unpacked 
as soon as received. If impossible to 
plant at once dig a trench sufficiently 
deep to accommodate the roots. Cover 
roots with soil and keep wet until plant- 
ing can be done. 
IRRIGATION. See IRRIGATION 
under GENERAL INFORMATION. 
Also, after new roses are planted sprin- 
kle lightly, daily, in addition to regular 
waterings until roses have started to 
grow. Roses should be watered, at 
least weekly. The basin method of ir- 
rigation is satisfactory. Overhead wa- 
tering is also good practice if water is 
applied in sufficient quantities to wet 
deeply. If this method is followed, early 
morning is best time. 
FERTILIZATION. After roses, 
planted this year, have put on 3 or 4 
inches of growth and just previous to 
an irrigation. punch 3 holes 4 inches 
deep, and spaced about equidistant 
apart, about 6 inches from base of each 
bush. Pour a small handful of good 
commercial fertilizer in each hole. Cover 
holes with soil. Fertilize again after 
their main spring bloom and at six- 
week intervals thereafter until Septem- 
ber 15. In subsequent years make more 




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