TIPS ON BULB CULTURE 
GLADIOLUS—Here is perhaps the most useful of all summer flowering bulbs. 
Excellent to fill in places where perennials have died, or where annuals have 
failed. Gladiolus are really easy to grow and need no more care than that 
given other flowers and the soil need not be too fertilized for best results. 
In fact, too much food promotes production of bulbils or offsets at the ex- 
pense of good bloom and of a sound center bulb. 
Gladiolus bulbs can be planted at any time from earliest spring until July 
first. In San Antonio and yicinity they really should be planted as early as 
January, for best results. In this manner you will have enjoyed the blooms 
long before the really hot weather sets in to stunt them. Bulbs should be 
treated for thrips before planting (ask us for complete information). Plant 
5’. to 6 deep in light soil. Shallower planting in light soil isn’t recom- 
mended because light soils cannot support long plant spikes which might 
otherwise topple over. 4’ in heavy soil is sufficient. If planted too shallow, 
more bulbils will be produced but not as good flowers. Space 6”’ apart in 
rows 24’ apart, tho for smaller. older sorts, 4’’ may be sufficient. 
DAHLIAS—The most spectacular fall flower and the one probably which will 
be your pride and joy. Dahlias should not be planted too early as most 
varieties will not do well in warm weather. This is true of most except, per- 
haps, Jersey Beauty, which has been out in front for a long time as the 
hardiest of them all in this section. Do not keep tubers later than June Ist, 
since by that time they usually start shriveling and may be injured if kept 
later. Be sure that your tubers have ‘‘eyes’’ on them or they will not grow 
successfully. These are tiny growing points which assure growth and are 
easily seen if the tuber is inspected with care. Dahlias need plenty of potash 
and phosphorous in additions to a good fertilizer such as Vigoro. This will 
produce firm tubers that will keep over winter, healthier plants and better 
blooms. 
Leafhoppers which carry disease and which also injure the plant by suck- 
ing the juice from leaves and stems are easily controlled by regular dusting 
or spraying with Staffel’s 59 DDT or Staffel’s Pyrocide Dust. Mulching with 
straw, excelsior, peat moss or some other airy, light material will help keep 
the soil moist and cool. Don’t use leayes or grass clippings that mat down 
and pack because they’ll hold in too much moisture. 
FANCY LEAVED CALADIUMS—These spectacular foliage plants are particu- 
larly valuable because they do well in the shade. Start them with a mixture 
half sand and half leaf mold at a temperature of over 70°. When the roots 
are well developed and the shoot is beginning to show, put up in rich soil. 
Set out in the garden when weather is warm and settled. Elephant ears can 
be planted directly in soil out of doors but the weather must be warm and 
settled otherwise they will rot. 
TUBEROSE—A warm weather bulb which should be pianted in rich soil, with 
2” of soil over the tip after the warm weather is warm and settled. Do not 
try to save the bulbs: these must be grown by a specialist if they are to 
bloom well. Buy new bulbs each year. 






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NARCISSUSS—Lovely for greenhouse or outdoor growth; generally available 
from us in September. The tender kinds with smaller flowers in clusters 
are easily bloomed in bowls of pebbles or peat moss in the living room. 
Narcissi are not desirable for formal planting but show off to best advantage 
when they give the impression of not haying been planned or planted. With 
the exception of the Polyanthus kinds all Narcissi are hardy, which means 
that they can be grown outdoors in the temperate zone tho some winter 
covering is necessary in severe weather. A slightly sheltered spot without 
too much sun outdoors is best. Prepare the soil by digging deeply and en- 
riching with well-rotted manure or bonemeal but do not let the manure 
touch the bulbs. Place the bulbs upright and cover with 5 inches or more 
of soil. 
IRIS—(Becrded)—The plants grow good in almost any soil, but they are most 
satisfactory and less susceptible to disease such as root rot in soils of only 
moderate fertility. In planting the Iris, the root should be reduced to a single 
section of the rhizome with a single fan of leaves. The rhizome should be 
planted horizontally with a Sight covering of soil; not more than an inch 
and eyen less in light soils. BEARDLESS IRIS: Culture very much the same cs 
the Bearded Iris except at all times the Beardless Iris requires moister condi- 
tions and prefer heavier soils. 
RANUNCULUS—Piant from early fall to December; early fall for winter 
bloom, and from that time on in succession until spring. Soak the bulbs 
in water for a few hours before planting and cover with two inches of soil. 
In very heavy soils cover with pure sand. The bulbs have finger like pro- 
jections and these should be planted points down. For a good garden display 
they should be spaced from four to six inches apart. Do not over water 
while bulb is freshly planted and in the process of breaking through. 
CANNAS—Plant when the apple blossoms appear for best results in good, 
rich soil. If planted in round beds you wiil need 37 plants for a 10 foot 
bed (18 plants on the outside, 12 in the second row, six for the third row 
and one in the center). A 7 foot bed will use 19 plants, with 12 plants on 
the outside row, six for the middle row and one plant in the center. 
LILIES—Require perfect drainage. They like a moist, cool soil. This means 
that liberal quantities of old well-decayed compost is almost essential for 
lilies. They will not tolerate lime; your soil should have a pH of 6.5 or below 
if you want to grow good lilies. 
TULIPS—Bulbs can be planted as early as they are available from the dealers 
which is about September Ist or they may be set out anytime thereafter 
until the ground actually freezes. The size of the bulb has a definite bear- 
ing on the size of the flower that will be produced. With most varieties, 
bulbs measuring 114 inches in diameter will make the best showing the first 
year. Prepare the soil thoroughly by spading it deeply and enriching it with 
bonemeal or well rotted manure. If possible, do not use a location that was 
planted to tulips the year before. 
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