Water or water with vitamin BI with good results. Plain water hastens rotting of the stalks and 
saps the natural nourishment from the ripening seed pods. There is enough strength in the 
ordinary stalk to ripen one or two pods without other feeding. Watch these broken-off-stalks for 
aphids, and if some are found the stalks should be sprayed with nicotine sulphate solution, 
otherwise these insects will take much of the vitality from the stalk. Some fanciers have placed 
broken-off pods in the moist soil under the plants right in the garden..This might be alright if 
one had only one or two crosses of this type to watch, but if such pods receive too much 
moisture will rot before the seeds develop. As soon as the pods turn brown or start to crack 
the seeds should be shelled out into small envelopes with the cross written on the outside. The 
envelopes should remain open and the contents shaken occasionally to prevent moulding; how- 
ever, if the seeds do mould there should be no alarm for it does not seem to interfere with germ- 
ination. 
Here in this section we do not plant the seed until late October or early November. There 
are many methods of planting seed. One might choose the method most suitable to his time 
and ambition. If, for instance, one is sure to be able to transplant seedlings early in the season 
just before the Tall Bearded start to bloom then planting in cold-frames would be wise, or even 
planting in open seed-beds, where the seed is planted, very closely, and will have to be trans- 
planted. | have found seed planted very thickly seems to germinate well. Whether this is due 
to the closeness of the seed or some other factor | am not prepared to say. Some fanciers will 
prefer to plant in rows (furrows for ditches are made), where the seedlings will grow to 
maturity and will not have to be transplanted; however, there is a disadvantage to this type 
of growing seedlings for many seeds will fail to germinate until the second or third season and 
some may even germinate years later. Needless to say, anything that germinates beyond the 
time one decides to give for this should either be dug and transplanted to another spot or 
destroyed immediately after they come through the ground. If one has used a seed-bed over a 
long period of years needless to say the soil should be given some fertility. The best fertilizer 
of course is either perfect compost or barnyard manure (fine), and not too old, for old well- 
rotted manure has lost much of its fertility and only the humis may remain. In preparing cold 
frames or small seed-beds, light soil, humis, light manure, leaf-mould, and fine sand should be 
mixed in about equal proportions. Commercial fertilizers should be avoided. Seed should be 
planted from one-half inch to three-fourths of an inch deep where the beds will have shelter 
of either frames or some other covering such as excelsior, leaves, marsh hay, cornstalks, etc., 
which will prevent thawing and freezing that often heaves seeds out of the ground. Beds should 
be weeded regularly at all times to insure access to the food and sunlight they need for full 
growth. Water on the seed-beds will insure germination. Beds that become dry, before or after 
germination starts, may do considerable damage to delicate plants or if not enough moisture 
is supplied from early season until germination is over seed may not germinate until the next 
year or even later. 
Marking the Crosses 
As mentioned last year, | use India ink to write on the wood stakes which are my markers. 
Ringed wires (galvanized) might be used to mark crosses in cold frames, or even in the field— 
in the rings might be tied either a plastic, wood or aluminum marked indicating the cross. 
Recorded in a book, one might have the various crosses, and rows, just in event a marker 
is lost or obliterated, as often happens. 
Selecting Seedlings 
When the seedlings actually bloom the important time has come to make selections. Some- 
times one wishes to save almost every plant from some crosses, and if a row of blue seedlings 
are examined in the late evening, after the sun has fallen over the horizon, it is easy to see 
the finest ''Blues” yet produced. One might mark a half dozen only to look at them under sun- 
light, with the blue sky above for comparison, and the markers will come off immediately. Many 
a flower has been marked in the early morning only to have the selection tag removed in the 
afternoon when it has proven to be just another pretty piece of fluff without enough substance 
to withstand the sun's hot rays. No fancier can judge his seedlings with finality the first season, 
some seem to improve on second year plants, while others seem to have given a ‘'swan-song’' 
their first year and are never as good again. | believe, however, another season finds us ever 
more critical and what pleased us last year, or a few years ago, might look like last year's 
Easter bonnet. Any fancier, too, must grow or have access to a garden growing the latest novel- 
ties or he cannot appraise his own seedlings. Unless a seedling shows considerable merit it is 
hardly worthwhile to keep it, unless for some purpose in breeding. Odd, though, some new 
plants are such "'stinkers'’ the first season, and some of these might be mentioned: Flora Zenor, 
White Wedgewood, Miobelle, Black Banner, etc., and | have seen plants of Chamois that one 
would not look at a second time, so if it were a seedling one might easily pull it up without 
a thought of remorse. 
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