No doubt many fine seedlings have gone fo rest without having a chance to show what they 
could do, but more often a promising seedling is given its fair chance. Some colors, however, 
show up better in different soils. Blues, for instance, will look bluer in some localities, and some 
blends are much richer in certain soils. A safe rule, however, is not to judge a new plant too 
harshly. Branching, size and color can best be judged on a two year plant. Some varieties like 
Snow Flurry (in some sections, that is), Elmohr, Blue Rhythm, etc., nearly always give typical 
bloom on first year plants. However, back to selection of seedlings. If you live in an isolated 
place and you have no way of knowing how good your pet seedling may be it would be wise if 
you should send it to a fancier's garden for trial, and don't feel hurt if he tells you, “it is just 
another nice blend, but not distinctive enough to merit introduction.’ Because you are a novice 
don't be afraid to send a plant out for trial-it may be you have a future Dykes Medal iris. 
Cousin's first introduction, Great Lakes, won him the medal, as did Wills’ Chivalry. Miss Rees’ 
first named iris, Snow Flurry, has brought her world fame, and an ever-increasing number of 
"grandchildren''—a posterity that iris fanciers will thank her for for years to come. 
Naming Iris 
Hybridizers say it is much easier to produce an iris of quality than to find a fitting name. 
Personally, | like simple and descriptive names. Hybridizers who understand French or Indian 
may choose names for their producitons that mean a lot to them but nothing to the majority 
of fanciers. Many an iris has been boosted to fame by its name, and many a good variety with 
a difficult name has been greatly hindered. Names like Kachookio, Kahokio, Rangitikia, or even 
Tishomingo are not likely to find favor among the average, and surely such simple names as 
Naranja, Ola Kala or Gudrun are difficult enough for some of us to pronounce to say nothing 
of Jean Cayeux, and Depute' Nomblot. How much easier to pronounce names like: China Maid, 
Great Lakes, Grand Canyon, Remembrance, Tiffany, Mulberry Rose, Snow Flurry, Black Forest, 
Sable, etc. Very often just looking at an iris will name it for you. Each flower has its own 
charm, its own personality, and it will suggest a name if you give the matter a little careful 
thought. Of course, very often some of the best names have been used and as is often the 
case such descriptive names as Pink Ruffles, Dogrose, Pink Satin, etc., have been used for earlier 
productions that were, perhaps, at that time considered pink, but which now are considered 
lavender or orchid and the names are no longer truly descriptive. 
Iris Planting 
W. R. Dykes suggested that planting immediately following the blooming period would 
give excellent results, and that during July the buds were forming for next year's bloom and 
if disturbed at this time might not bloom the following year. Later planting, however, in August 
and September was suggested as an excellent time. Some varieties seem to bloom well regard- 
less of the time they are transplanted while others are slow to establish and bloom the first year 
regardless. One must take into account the climate and weather conditions, Iris transplanted 
during very hot weather may just "'sit'’ and if watered excessively may rot. Fanciers living in, 
mild climates can, very often, plant iris all but the very hottest months, where fanciers in colder 
sections have shorter growing seasons and must plant during July, August and September. Later 
plantings in cold sections (especially where there is chance of open winters) with thawing and 
freezing conditions during the winter should cover plants with leaves and wire, excelsior, marsh hay, 
cornstalks, or some other coarse material that will allow some ventilation without allowing the 
ground to thaw. Sometimes, however, field mice or other rodents will do some damage to plants 
so covered, therefore the fancier must understand his problems and act accordingly. 
lris Diseases 
| suppose no section of the country is free, entirely, of the common diseases of iris. Rot, of 
two types, especially, is the worrk of the average iris fancier. Botrytis (Winter Rot) which causes 
a grey or black mould to grow in the fan and rhizomes will be found in early spring—especially so 
after a mild or wet winter. It is best to remove all affected parts—being careful to lift these into 
a box whence they should be burned. The plant, if any is left in the garden, should be treated with 
a solution of improved Semesan (the strength suggested for use in dipping gladiolus bulbs), Lysol 
solution (same as for gladiolus dipping), Powdered Gypsum, Sulphur or a strong solution of Po- 
tassium Pomanginate, this latter being especially useful against infections of Mustard-Seed Fungus 
(crown rot) which affects the iris during the summer; however, any plant with this disease should 
be cleaned of all affected leaves (and these destroyed) then the solution of Potassium Pomanginate 
applied and the parts left exposed to the sun. Bacterial Soft Rot will appear in the late spring 
and early summer or fall. The above remedies might be helpful against this disease, but needless to 
say the affected parts should be cut away, the plants treated and the parts left exposed to the 
sun. Keeping water away from the plants and insuring good drainage should also help. Mrs. Glen 
Suiter of Nyssa, Oregon, ''swears'’ by fine wood-ashes as a good preventative of rot—this she 
"plants well under the newly set rhizomes. Perhaps it is potash that does the good. Healthy 
plants which have been given a well balanced ‘'diet'' will be more likely to withstand disease than 
weak plants or plants that are ''fat'' due to over-watering. Incompletely rotted or composted plant 
life as well as some kinds of animal or poultry manures may cause types of rot or other diseases. 
(26) 
