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LETTUCE 
1. Great Lakes 2. Oak Leaf 3. Imperial 
No. 847 4. White Paris Cos. 
KALE OR BORECOLE 
Early fall or spring sowing. Either in 
rows or broadcast. To produce large 
plants have rows 2’ apart and thin 
to 2’ in rows. Leaves are best after 
coming of cool weather in fall. 
Dwarf Siberian—Hard and productive. 
Bluish green foliage. Leaves large and 
spreading. 65 days. 

Transplanting 
DON’T assume that transplanting is worth 
doing for itself alone. Transplanting is 
like an operation to a human being: the 
plant must recover from _ post-operative 
shock before it can take hold and start 
The only value in trans- 
planting is that it allows you to use 
larger plants—important in short seasons. 
If there is ever any question as to 
whether to direct-seed or to transplant, 
always direct-seed unless quicker ma- 
turity is a factor. Even tomatoes, the 
crop most often transplanted, will usually 
produce as quickly from seed sown in 
the open as they will from transplants, 
which must grow new roots before they 
can begin growing again, 
Use good seedlings if you must trans- 
plant. They should be medium green 
in color, not too tall, and the leaves 
should be free from spots or dead areas. 
Avoid seedlings that are reddened or 
purplish in col6r, or show signs of yellow- 
ing (except in the case of celery plants, 
which can be quite yellow and still be 
good). 
If you want to grow your own trans- 
planis to get healthy stock, follow these 
directions: 
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- KOHLRABI 
Sow seed in early spring or fall and 
when well established thin to 6” apart 
in the row. Even better to start it in 
beds and transplant same as cabbage. 
Planting at intervals of 10 days gives 
tender bulbs until hot weather. 
White Vienna Early (fr)—8 to 10-in. 
leaves on slender stems. Bulbs 2 to 
3-in., globular light green. Crisp, ten- 
der, clear white flesh. 55 to 60 days. 
LETTUCE 
Keep lettuce growing rapidly for best 
results, A light, rich soil needed for 
this. Earliest varieties must be started 
from seed in cold-frame, As soon as 
open ground can be worked, trans- 
plant. For later use, sow seed in open 
ground as soon as weather is favor- 
able, Thin plants in rows 4” to 8” 
depending on variety. 
Heading or Cabbage 
Big Boston or Mammoth Boston—Pop- 
ular for cold frame forcing and outside 
culture. Medium, compact heads with 
creamy yellow heart. Smooth, glossy 
leaves, edges wavy, and slightly tinged 
with reddish brown. 75 days. 
Great Lakes—All-America award. An 
outstanding new Iceberg or Crisp-head 
type. A summer lettuce that stands heat 
well and is very resistant to tip burn. 
Heads medium size, solid, crisp. 
Iceberg—Late, large variety. Compact 
heads, crumpled, crisp and _ sweet. 
Leaves light green, slightly brown on 
edges. 85 days. 
Imperial No. 847 (Florida Iceberg)— 
Heads are of good size and solid. Does 
well in hot weather, and is resistant to 
tip burn, Very hardy. 83 days. 
New York—Long distance shipper. 
Large curled heading lettuce. Dark 
green. Curled edge leaves. Well 
blanched heads. Sweet, tender. 80 days. 
White Paris Cos or Trianon—Medium 
large self-folding, dark green loaf 
How? When? Pare Mer Ua cemequ [ey] Where? Why? 
DON’T BEGIN too soon, unless you have 
a greenhouse or light hotbed and can 
give the seedlings plenty of room. For 
most vegetables, 6 to 7 weeks is time 
enough to allow between seeding and 
transplanting. Most homes are too dark, 
so don’t try to grow seedlings unless 
you can do it in a sunny window that 
gets direct sunshine for at least six hours. 
Fill shallow boxes (flats) with a mixture 
of 1/3 good garden soil, 1/3 clean sand 
and 1/3 compost, leaf mould or other 
well-rotted organic matter, Make very 
shallow rows or furrows with the edge of 
a ruler or a wood lath, 3” apart. Sow 
seeds in these rows 1” apart in the row. 
DON'T let your soil dry out, and don't 
let it be soggy. Spray lightly two or 
three times a day, using an atomizer or 
bulb sprinkler. When the best seedlings 
can be selected, thin out to stand 2” to 3” 
apart. Before transplanting into the gar- 
den, withhold water for 2 or 3 days. In 
transplanting, set the plants firmly by 
pressing on both sides of the stem with 
forefinger and thumb. If not firmed thor- 
oughly, seedling may be killed by being 
hung with an air space underneath. 
Always try to save as many leaves and 
roots as possible. Scientific tests show 
shaped heads. Greenish-white, well 
blanched interior, 66 days. 
Loose Leaf Varieties 
Black Seeded Simpson—Light green, 
frilled and crumpled. 45 days. 
Oak Leaf—The most popular leaf lettuce 
for home gardens. Rich, dark green 
leaves, tender and delicious. Outstand- 
ing resistance to hot weather. 
MANGEL WURZEL 
(See Beets, Stock) 
MELONS 
Muskmelon and Cantaloupe 
Easily injured by cool weather. Be- 
fore planting, spade liberal forkful of 
well rotted manure into each hill, 
Thin plants to four per hill after third 
leaf develops, and train vines in dif- 
ferent directions. On moist ground, use 
shingles to hold melons off ground to 
prevent rotting. 
Banana—Fruits smooth and slender, 20) 
inches long and 4 inches thick, resem- 
bling a banana. Flesh salmon color, 
with banana-like flavor. 90 days. 
Hale’s Best—Flesh thick, deep salmon- 
pink, sweet and tasty. Heavily netted 
rind, with faint stripe. Small seed cav- 
ity. Outstanding variety, resistant to 
powdery mildew. 4 lbs. 86 days. 
Hearts of Gold or Improved Hoodoo— 
Nearly round 2-lb. fruit, distinctly 
ribbed, deep green with fine grey net- 
ting. Thick, deep salmon flesh, tender 
sweet. 94 days. 
Honey Dew—The well-known green- 
fleshed melon for warm climates. 
Smooth, ivory colored skin. Flesh is 
sweet and juicy. 112 days. 
Rocky Ford, Golden Lined — Fruits 
small, with rather large seed cavity. 
Nearly round, weight 2¥2 lbs. No ribs. 
Heavily covered with hard grey net- 
ting. Flesh thick, green with gold tinge 
at center. Very juicy and spicy. Excel- 
lent quality. 92 days. 
Continued on Page 16 
that it is better to allow the transplant to 
wilt slightly than to remove leaves to 
prevent that wilting. Removing leaves 
slows up manufacture of plant food that 
will help plant recover. Liberal watering 
should prevent wilting. 
After Transplanting 
As soon as the garden has been planted, 
water thoroughly but gently with a fine 
spray. This, by the way, is the only time 
we sprinkle a garden; once the plants 
are established, any watering should give 
the soil a good soaking. If a crust forms 
after watering, break this by working 
with a hoe or cultivator on both sides of 
the row. 
In the case of slow-germinating seeds 
like carrots and parsnips, mixing a few 
radish seeds in the packet will mark the 
row early. Otherwise you may have to 
delay cultivation until too late to do a 
good job of weed control. 
DON'T take it for granted that cultivation 
will substitute for watering. Tests prove 
that pulverized soil loses just as much 
water after working as before. The real 
reason for cultivating is to destroy weeds. 
Weeds shade desirable plants, rob them 
of moisture and use up soil plant food. 
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