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1. Large size. 2 in up in diameter. 
This is the most preferred size, which 
produces large plants and if grown in 
pots requires minimum 8 in. or 9 in. 
containers. 
2. Medium size. 1/2 in. to 2 in. in 
diameter. Often this size is used for 
smaller pots, 7 in. in size, and will give 
excellent results for bedding. 
3. Small size. 1 to 11% in. in diam- 
eter. This size will not give large plants 
the first season but it is satisfactory for 
bedding purposes or small pot plants. 

CULTURE OF TUBEROUS BEGONIAS 
Tubers ... If early flowering is desired place 
tubers during January and February in a 
warm place in open trays. Moisten slightly 
once in a while until they come to life. As 
they begin sprouting, plant in flats in a mix- 
ture of peat and sand, leaf mold and sand, or 
peat alone, all of which are good media for 
developing a root system. Plant tubers 3 to 4 
in. apart, so that they are 14 in. below the 
surface. Keep uniformly moist but not too 
wet, in a warm place, well lighted, until 3 or 
4 in. of growth develops. Then plant in a per- 
manent location or in pots, as desired. The 
front of the plant is always where the tips of 
the leaves are pointing. Often if dormant tu- 
bers are planted in open ground, especially if 
it is too cold or wet, a number of them may 
rot and the planting will be uneven, with some 
coming earlier and some later, with the plants 
facing in haphazard ways. Started first in 
flats, they will develop a splendid root system 
which is necessary for the forming of fine 
specimen plants. 

Transplanting . . . Before the plants be- 
come too large and crowded in flats, trans- 
plant in open ground or pots, taking care not 
to disturb the root system too much. Outdoors 
any light soil containing a lot of humus will 
grow good begonias. Heavy soils should have 
a strong application of well-rotted manure, 
leaf mold or sand to lighten them. Light, 
gravelly or sandy soils will benefit greatly by 
the application of peat, leaf mold or well- 
rotted manure. If planting in pots, soil should 
be much lighter than that used outdoors; two- 
thirds coarse leaf mold and one-third sand or 
sandy loam will give excellent results. 
Feeding . . . If well-grown specimens are 
desired, additional feeding will be required, 
either with fish or cottonseed meals, both of 
which give fine results. The best method of 
using these fertilizers is to mix them with the 
soil that goes into the lower half of the pot, so 
that the roots will gradually reach into this 
area. If planting outdoors, a heaping table- 
spoonful for small plants and two for large 
plants will be sufficient when placed in the 
lower half of the planting hole. In potsatable- 
spoonful for a 6-in. pot or a small handful for 
an 8-in. pot will be enough to carry the plants 
through the season. See that the fertilizer 
does not come into contact with the stem or 
leaves of the plant, as both form a mold in 
the early stage of fermenting which would at- 
tack the growing tissues and destroy the plant. 
Watering .. . After transplanting, gentle 
overhead watering is best until the plants are 
well established. Too heavy watering during 
the young stage may pack the soil, keeping it 
too wet, thereby causing the soil to go sour. 
Later, when the plants are in full growth, they 
will require a steady supply of moisture as the 
root system is shallow and any drying out will 
give a set-back to normal development. 
— 5 ays a! a 
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