16 ROSES 

Climbing Roses 
FOLLOWING VARIETIES $1.50 
EACH, $16.50 PER DOZEN, EXCEPT AS 
NOTED. 
AMERICAN BEAUTY CLIMBER. An 
old standby, but still one of the most 
poplar climbing roses. Large flowering 
type of American Beauty red. A profuse 
bioomer, especially after a favorable 
winter. 
BLAZE. (Plant Patent No. 10.) Un- 
doubtedly the most popular climbing 
rose of the day. Never sufficient stock 
to meet the demand. Everblooming, 
bright scarlet of semi-double flowers 
blooming in clusters. $2.00 each, $22.50 
per dozen. 
CL. DAME EDITH HELEN. Large, 
long stemmed blossoms of bright pink. 
Fully double and always good foliage. 
CL. MME. EDOUARD HERRIOT. Fine 
salmon-pink blooms with yellow base. 
CL. MRS. E. P. THOM. One of the 
best yellow climbers in commerce. The 
lemon-yellow blossoms hold their color 
without fading, better than is the case 
with most any other yellow. 
CL. MRS. SAM McGREDY. (Plant 
Patent No. 394). Long pointed buds of 
searlet-orange washed with copper and 
red, Opening to apricot shaded with 
CL. PICTURE. (Plant Patent No. 
524.) A lovely clear pink, suffused with 
salmon. Probably the best pink climb- 
ing rose in our list. $2.00 each. 
CL. RED RADIANCE. An old garden 
favorite of American Beauty red. One 
of the hardiest of the hybrid tea climb- 
ers. 
CL. TALISMAN. Probably the most 
popular of the hybrid tea climbers and 
very showy in its copper-red and orange- 
rose coloring on the inside of petals. 
DOUBLOONS. (Plant Patent No. 152). 
A profusion of large golden flowers on 
strong, lengthy stems. Very fragrant. 
GOLDEN CLIMBER. (Plant Patent 
No. 28). Buds flecked with orange-scar- 
let, open to deep golden-yellow. 
PAUL’S SCARLET. Probably the 
heaviest blooming and most dependable 
climbing rose in our listing. Huge clus- 
ters of semi-double scarlet blooms. Near- 
ly always a Sure bloomer after the first 
year. 
VAN FLEET, JR. 
blooms of light pink. 
Medium sized 
ALL CLIMBING ROSES $1.50 EACH. 
$16.50 PER DOZEN, EXCEPT AS 
NOTED. 
bronze. 

HOW TO PLANT AND TRIM ROSES 
The top illustration to the right shows the correct way of planting a 
rose. It also shows the way a rose should be cut back when planted. The 
bottom illustration shows the improper way to plant a rose. Please note 
that the knob or bud in the top illustration, as well as the forks of the plant, 
are slightly under the ground level. The bud of a grafted rose should al- 
ways be planted from 1% to 2% inches under the ground level, preferably 
the latter figure. The bottom illustration shows this bud planted above 
ground, and of consequence a perfect chance of freezing out over the first 
winter. Also note the crowded condition of the roots which are not allowed 
to expand normally, as well as the hard pan at the bottom of the hole, which 
(Right) 
should be loosened for better root action. ‘Too 
shallow planting in a large per cent of the cases 
is the cause of the plant freezing out and suck- 
ers coming from the roots and “‘going to the wild 
rose’ as it is so commonly called. 
At least in Colorado, roses should never be 
pruned or trimmed back in the fall; either 
climbers or bush roses. Any cutting back of 
roses should be done about the time the growth 
starts in the spring, and then remove the dead 
wood only, except in bush roses, where they’ve 
gone through a favorable winter and consider- 
able live wood is still on the plant; it is then 
advisable to cut back to about six or eight inches 
above the ground. 
Watering, fertilization and cultivation, out- 
side of good stock to start with, are perhaps 
the most vital factors in the production of good 
blooms. Cow fertilizer is the safest to use, and 
deep irrigation as shown in the last paragraph 
of ‘chow to plant evergreens’’ is advisable. The 
soil should be frequently aerated by deep hoeing 
or cultivation, but not until the ground is suf- 
ficiently dried out after watering. 
INSIST ON COLORADO GROWN STOCK 

(Wrong) 

