EXPLANATIONS, etc. (cont. ) 
any other one man for the development of the daffodil of today; (Richardson) - J. 
Lionel Richardson, Waterford, Ireland, who began in 1911, and is today one of the 
leading growers and hybridists; (Williams) - Percival D. Williams, who succumbed to 
the charms of the daffodil, and began raising them at his home in Cornwall in 1895, 
and continued until his death in 1935,- his work is now being carried on by his son, 
Michael P. Williams; (Jilson) - Guy L. Wilson, Broughshane, Co,Antrim, Ireland, an- 
other leader of today, who began his work with the daffodil in 1906. 
To satisfy a long felt need, the Royal Horticultural Society of London 
has recently re-classified a number of varieties and types of daffodils. This class- 
ification does not go into effect until January lst.1950, so we are placing varieties 
in the same class or division as formerly, in this list. 
The chief difference in the new Classification will be the elimination of 
the Leedsii class, the giant Leedsii going into Division II., (b) if the crowns are 
colored, and (c) if they are white; this Division will be known as “Large Cupped Nare 
cissi", instead of Incomparabilis. The small-crowned Leedsii will be (b) and (c) in 
Division II1., which will be called "Small Cupyed Narcissi", instead of Barrii. The 
Double varieties will be moved up to Division IV., vacated by the Leedsii; the other 
Divisions remain unchanged, except that afew 'species', etc. are to be removed from 
some, and placed by themselves in class X. 
DAFFODILS, NARCISSI or JONQUILS? Daffodil is the English name for all types 
end forms of the genus, or family; Narcissus is the Latin, or botannical name, - so 
either name may be used for any of then, although many of us prefer to think of the 
larger types as being Daffodils, and the Poeticus, Poetaz hybrids etc., as Narcissi. 
Jonquils however, are only one group of the genus, distinguished by rush- 
like foliage, and their sweetly scented goiden yellow flowers, usually borne in clus- 
ters of three or more, - and the name Jonquil should not be applied to any other. 
CULTURAL NOTES 
With a very few excéptions, daffodils are perfectly hardy, and may be 
grown in every part of our country except Florida, and possibly the southernmost 
parts of some of the south-western states. 
They are one of the first flowers to bloom in the spring, and they will 
continue to bloom year after year, giving an ever increasing wealth of beauty. By a 
careful selection of varieties, one may have them flowering over a period of six 
weeks or more,- most of March and part of April, here in Virginia. This time may be 
‘lengthened yet, by planting real early varieties in sheltered Spots, and late va- 
rieties in exposed positions. 
They are splendid for naturalizing in meadow, (not too dense) woodland or 
hillside, or beside a stream or lake. They will not do so well in heavy sod, and a- 
bove all, the location must be well drained. Planting in clumps among or in front of 
shrubbery, and borders along walks and fences are favorite Ways of using them, and 
some,- especially the Jonquils, Triandrus hybrids etc.,- are excellent in the rock 
garden. In a favorable season,- cool, moist and not too windy,- many varieties will 
remaine fresh and pretty in the garden or yard for two wecks or more. As cut flowers 
they are unexcelled, lasting nearly a week in water,- longer if kept in a cool part 
of the house,- and the delightful fragrance adds to their desirability. 
Daffodils prefer a sandy loam, but will do well in any good garden soil, 
iv it is well drained. They should be planted in time to make good root growth before 
winter, between early September and late October, depending on which part of thé coun- 
try you live in. Large bulbs should be set 5 to 6 inches deep,- to the base of the 
bulb,- or cven 8 inches for naturalizing; in heavy clayey soils an inch less might be 
bettcr. As to the distance apart, large bulbs should be at least 6 inches, smaller 
ones (jonquils etc.) may be a little closer, and should be not so deep as large bulbs. 
If the soil is rich no fertilizer is necessary, if just average, bone-meal 
or pulverized cow-manure is good, thoroly mixed in the soil below the bulbs at plant- 
ing time. In covering the bulbs, the soil should be ridged over them a little if 
