Rhododendrons 
Azaleas, Kalmias, Leucothoes, Pieris and Rhododen- 
drons might be classed in the same catagory. To 
have success with them, try planting them in strait 
peat. Much has been said about soil preparation; 
but in heavy soils it has been our experience that 
strait peat is most satisfactory of all. Any peat- 
moss will do; but German and Polish Peat seem to 
get better response than Holland and Canadian. 
Michigan Peat seems to give us best results of all. 
This year, with more than a quarter million of these 
(Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Leucothoes and Pieris) 
in plantbands, all of the above-mentioned kinds of 
peat will have been used; and anyone interested can 
see here the difference. 
Whether you repot or reband the plants, or plant 
them out, we suggest that you try this strait peat- 
moss for a growing medium. You will be surprised 
how lustrous green the foliage will continue to be 
and how quickly the plants will grow into saleable 
sizes. 
Some nurserymen use combinations of peatmoss and 
sawdust with success. Most who use that combination 
complain about leaf-rollers, cutworms, and other 
plant choppers in the sawdust. An application of 
10% DDT (2504 to the acre, or 1# to 175 square 
feet) or ISOTOX (250# of 2% dust to the acre, or 
1# to 175 sq. ft.) will take care of such pests. The 
DDT will last longest, and will continue active for 
three to five years. Isotox may not last as long, but 
it will give the quickest kill. Then, too, if you have 
some Isotox left over, you can put some of it in your 
bean duster, and easily control the leaf-chewers that 
happen along thru the summer. It will “‘get” almost 
any bug that flies or jumps, altho red spider seems 
to get fat on it. 
Bear in mind that all of these (ericaceous) plants 
are “surface feeders”. Don’t plant them deeper than 
they are in the pot or band, and don’t hoe around 
them. Pull any weeds that come up; and don’t “heel 
up” around them. They don’t like having their sur- 
face roots disturbed. Get the ground prepared, plant 
them, and then, mostly, let them alone. 
RHODODENDRON cearolinianum. (Carojlina Rhod. 1 yr. 
nursery-grown seedlings; hardy over wide area; pink 
blooms earlier than most Rhod.) ‘ea 2 11.00 
RHODODENDRON catawbiense. (Catawba Rhod. 1 yr. 
nursery-grown seedlings; hardy; buds deep purplish- 


red, open to crimson) = eee = 11.00 
RHODODENDRON hybrid Peealinge (1 yr. nursery- 
grown seedlings from seeds of red blooming hybrids) 11.00 
SALIX purpurea nana. (Blue Asiatic Willow. Makes 
a “‘very best’’ hedge, and nice 4’ shrub for other uses; 

si@ariare awntel gegoYeye ll) dpaaen. eee ee eS ee ee eres 7.50 
TAXUS cuspidata. (Spreading Jap. Yew. You can’t 
have too many) —_ ner. s a! gi 11.00 

TAXUS cuspidata capitata. (Uprite Japanese Yew. 





From tip cuttings) Cate elie te eel Oe a 13.50 
TAXUS cuspidata nana-brevifolia. ue dwarf Jap- 
anese Yew) eee Cee tee en Ae ee 13.50 
TAXUS intermedia. (Selected strain; we aie them 
DeLorme han mcuspidata jaucs 2 a is e 11.00 
TAXUS media browni. (Brown’s Yew. Cond grower, 
and may be grown as a globe or uprite by proper 
See ITS) teed See ee oe end es SE ee ge fi ede de Eh 13.50 
TAXUS media hicksi. (Hick’s Columnar Yew; hardy 
and good; heavy berry-bearing strain) — 11.00 
THUJA occ. elegantissima. (Gold-tipped Ne horitae: 
one of the better Arborvitaes) SE ela et ern ree 11.00 

ila 
