
CHRYSANTHEMUM 
6 

Well Established Young Plant Top Several Inches Removed Strong Breaks Resulting 
_from Single Pinch 
PINCHING 
For a good number of years the reason for pinching was to regulate the number of stems on the 
plant. In recent years we have learned that in case of pompons or singles the pinching determines 
the type of spray formation. With standards, pinching will determine the type of bud formation, 
whether it be a crown or terminal bud. 
Time Pinching 
The precision culture of chrysanthemums is all set up around the "Last Pinch.’ To grow a quality 
pompon you should receive the rooted cuttings sometime in June and then plant into the perma- 
nent location approximately three to four weeks before the date listed in our list of varieties under 
"Last Pinch.'’ When growing shaded pompons the ''Last Pinch" should be 21 to 35 days before the 
shading date. When shading the 60- to 66-day varieties the last pinch should be 30 to 35 days from 
pinch to shade while the 76-day varieties require only 21 to 28 days from date of pinch to date of shade. 
Time pinching standards will eliminate the formation of the crown bud and produce terminal buds 
which will in turn produce a much straighter flowering stem. 
Pruning 
Another important factor is to remove all shoots but 3 or 4 per plant, in a few instances only 2 
shoots are allowed to mature. Allow more shoots to develop on the outside rows than on the center 
rows of a bed. When fewer breaks are selected the planting distance should be closer. If you prefer 
to have a number of smaller sprays, with fewer blooms open at one time, follow the double pinch- 
ing procedure. 3 
Standards are usually pinched once to induce breaks so that they may be grown two per plant. The 
strongest breaks are selected and all others removed. It is well to pinch on the date suggested in the 
general list. Careful observation has shown us that neckiness with some varieties is eliminated by 
pinching on the respective dates. Singles and anemones are usually grown 3 to 4 stems per plant. 
Condition of Plant 
When pinching, remove only the soft growth, never cut into the woody stems as this will not pro- 
duce the type of breaks you desire. It is our experience that it is best not to pinch until the plant 
has become well established in its permanent location. In all cases it is better to have at least eight — 
to ten inches of growth on the plants before pinching. (Photos above.) aan 
When double pinching, pinch the first time 30 days before the “Last Pinch’. This allows enough 
time to produce a growth long enough to pinch at the proper time. | Re oe 
If by chance you are delayed in planting and your plants will be too tall, it is advisable to pinch early 
enough before benching so that the breaks will be several inches long at time of planting. Never 
pinch hard plants at the same time they are planted into the bench, a heavy loss may result. Better 
ot ay « 
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wait until plants are established, then pinch. has 
The last pinching dates given after each variety will help you grow that variety to excellency. mReoy 
member that pinching is just one cultural factor and will only function when all other cultural points 
are carried out properly. te NGS aan a caller 


