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The numbers, I to VIII, found with every 
flower listing refer to the following culture 
notes which give directions for growing 
all of the flowers we list. 
One of the important problems in the 
garden is that of maintaining a continuous 
show of bloom. This calls for the use 
of several different types of annuals, such 
as those that must be planted early to 
grow in cool weather (Culture IV) and 
those which bloom later in summer heat 
(Culture I and II). If some of the cool- 
weather annuals from Group IV are sown 
in mid-summmer and kept well watered, 
they will grow slowly until the cooler 
days of fall start them into more active 
growth. These will produce late flowers. 
Quick-growing annuals from Group II may 
also be sown at intervals for a succession 
of bloom during the summer. 
One way to lengthen the blooming period 
of annuals is to cut off all flowers as soon 
as they fade. Annuals complete their life 
span when seed is formed and frequent- 
ly stop flowering as soon as the seed 
Tipens. By preventing the seed from form- 
ing through removal of all old flowers, the 
plants are kept growing and blooming. 
Culture I 
These flowers need a long season and 
must be started indoors if a full blooming 
period is to be had. If early bloom is not 
important, they will bloom later in the 
summer when sown directly in the gar- 
den. Some gardeners sow both ways to 
obtain a succession of flowers. 
When starting seedlings indoors, select a 
Withee plenty of light.. North or 
shaded windows may be too dark for best 
results. Cold frames are generally very 
good. The seed is planted in small boxes 
(or flat) that have good drain- 
age and will fit the space 
you are going to use. Fill 
them with a mixture of 14 
good soil, ¥ sand and 44 
humus such as peat. Press 
the soil down firmly and 
make small rows with the 
edge of a ruler or *%lath and 
slowly shake the seed from 
the packet into the rows. 
Sift a light covering of the 
soil mixture over the seed 
and moisten with a fine 
spray. Keep soil moist until 
the seeds have sprouted. 
Very fine seed such as that @ 
of petunias should be dusted @a@ 
carefully onto a smooth soil 
surface and covered with a 
pane of glass. Shade it with 
newspaper until the seeds 
sprout. These are best wat- 
ered by setting the flat in 
a pan of water until the soil § 
has become thoroughly } 
dampened all the way 
through. When the seedlings 
have formed the second true 
leaves, transplant them into 
other flats so the plants are 
about 2% inches apart, This 
will give them room to grow 
to good size before being 
set out, Expose gradually to | 
outside conditions and plant 
outside after the weather is 
warm andé settled. When 
sown directly outdoors, fol- 
low directions under Culture § 
Il. 
Culture II 
These are the quicker-grow- 
ing annuals that can be 
sown directly in the garden 
and will bloom in time to 
make a good display for } 

PETUNIA—Fire Chief, 
The first flower development to win the gold medal in 
eleven years! This “natural color” reproduction cannot oF 
do justice to the real life, fiery-red brilliance and beauty 
of Fire Chief. A wonderful addition to your garden. Be 
sure to ask us about it. 
most of the summer. If wanted especially 
early, they should be started as directed 
under Culture I. Some flower seedlings 
are rather delicate. Extra care in preparing 
the seed bed will pay dividends in better 
plants. 
Prepare soil with a liberal amount of mixed 
fertilizer and organic matter and dig it in. 
Rake the surface until it is smooth and 
pulverized. Sow the seed at a depth equal 
to three times the diameter of the seed. 
Fine seed can be spread on the surface 
and pressed in without covering. 
Keep soil moist by light spraying until 
the seedlings have formed the first true 
leaves. When they are large enough to 
handle, they may be transplanted to other 
parts of the garden. 
Culture III 
These flowers do not transplant well, They 
should be planted where they are to 
bloom. 
Sow as soon as the weather begins to 
warm in the spring. Otherwise the culture 
is the same as II. Sow seed thinly or 
remove the smaller plants after they are 
up. These can be handled as pot-grown 
plants as in Culture VII. 
Culture IV 
These flowers are unusually hardy an- 
nuals that can withstand very cool weather. 
They are often sown late in fall so they 
can start growing the first warm days of 
spring. If not sown in fall, they should be 
planted as early in the spring as possible. 
Fall sowing gets the seeding job out of 
the way before the spring rush, 
Culture V 
These flowers, while garden subjects, are 
also useful for winter-flowering house 
plants. For garden use, handle as in Cul- 
ture II. For winter flowering indoors, plant 
fairly late in the season and transplant 
1950 Gold Medal 
into small pots as soon as they are large 
enough. Keep moving them to larger pots 
as roots fill the soil until they are finally 
in six-inch pots, Annuals in pots should 
have at least six hours of direct sunlight 
daily if they are to flower. 
Culture VI 
Perennials can be seeded at almost any 
time of the year. Best periods are early 
in the spring or in early summer when 
the rush of spring work is over. A cold 
frame or sheltered bed which can be 
shaded from the direct sun is best. Pre- 
pare soil thoroughly with plenty of organic 
matter. A loose, friable soil will produce 
a thick mat of roots so that the seedlings 
will transplant more easily. Perennial 
seedlings are rather weak growers need- 
ing extra care. In covering the drills in 
which the seeds are sown, use either 
pure, clean sand or a mixture of half sand 
and half peat. This prevents packing of the 
soil over the seeds. Always water with a 
fine spray. 
As soon as the second leaves form, seed- 
lings may be transplanted into their 
permanent position. Or, if more con- 
venient, they may be left in the seed-bed 
until the following spring. Under this cul- 
ture, only a few species will bloom the 
first year and they will not produce nor- 
mal flowers until the following year. Plant- 
ing earlier does increase the chances for 
flowers the first year. But, if it is more 
convenient, Culture I may be used. 
Culture VII 
These varieties need a longer growing 
season than can be given them outdoors. 
And because they do not transplant well, 
they must be started in pots and set out 
without disturbing the roots. Otherwise 
Culture is the same as I. The use of plant 
bands allows ee set the seedlings out 
: without disturbing the roots. 
Winner. The bands soon rot away 
and the seedlings will grow 
though started in the 
garden. 
If clay pots are used, the 
excessive drying can be 
avoided by placing the pots 
in> tax flat and. fillinos the 
space between them with 
damp peat or vermiculite. 
Be sure to keep this mate- 
rial moist or it will draw 
moisture from the pots, 
Culture VIII 
These flowers are biennials. 
They make a leafy growth 
the first year but do not 
flower. The leafy growth of 
the first year forms food for 
blooming the following year. 
The flowers appear the sec- 
ond year and then the plant 
dies. 
This means that a continu- 
ous show from _ biennials 
must be provided by start- 
ing new plants every year 
to replace those that are 
flowering. Biennials are han- 
dled in the same way as 
perennials except that they 
are started early in the 
spring to allow the plant to 
store as much food as pos- 
sible for the next year’s 
bloom. 
Many gardeners start bien- 
nials in the vegetable gar- 
den or special starting bed 
and then transplant the ones 
needed to the flower gar- 
den the following spring. 
During the winter, biennials 
should be given the same 
treatment as perennials, 
