FASHIONS IN GLADIOLUS 

CULTURAL HINTS 
. DISINFECTING—All bulbs and bulblets should be dipped in a disinfectant in order to 
kill thrips and to prevent possible disease infection on the bulbs. Nothing will cure bulbs 
affected any of the rots. Bulbs showing rot should be discarded at once. 
. PLANTING DATES—Any time from early Spring until the first of July. The blooming 
season can be prolonged until frost if planted at intervals of every three weeks. 
WHERE TO PLANT—Glads should be planted in open, sunny places away from buildings 
and trees. They are primarily cut-flowers and should be planted in rows such as a vege- 
table garden. Glads will grow in any kind of soil but do best in a sandy loam. The soil 
must be well drained. It pays to spade deeply. 
. PLANTING—Plant from 3 to 6 inches deep. Small bulbs should be planted about 3 
inches deep and larger sizes up to 6 inches deep. If you have a heavy clay soil 4 to 5 inches 
will be deep enough. The bulbs should be set not closer than 4 inches apart in the rows 
and the soil must be firmed well after planting. 
. FERTILIZING—tThe amount to use will depend upon the fertility of your soil. Any good 
commercial fertilizer will give good results or you can ask your dealer for the fertilizer 
commonly used on potatoes in your locality. Some growers prefer to place the fertilizer in 
the bottom of the trench as the bulbs are planted. Care must be taken to see that the fer- 
tilizer is mixed with the soil and then about 2 inches of soil placed over the mixture. The 
bulbs should then be set in the row, leaving the 2 inches of soil between them and the 
fertilizer. 
. WATERING—Glads need plenty of moisture. To produce top bloom they should have 
1% to 2 inches of water per week. Whenever the natural rainfall fails to supply this 
quantity be sure to put it on in the form of irrigation. It is best to water just once a 
week, soaking the soil well, so that the roots are not pushing upward to the surface of 
the ground. 
CUTTING BLOOMS—Glads are the most popular cut-flower grown today. To enjoy them 
at their best the spikes should be cut when the first floret is in full bloom. They should be 
placed in water at once and taken indoors to develop slowly. You can enjoy a spike a 
long time as a good variety will open every bud to the tip, in water. If the water in the 
vase is changed daily and about an inch of the stem is cut off (slantwise) each day, many 
varieties will keep for as long as a week. When cutting the spike always leave 4 leaves 
on the plant to develop the bulb for next year. 
. DIGGING—Bulbs should not be dug until about 8 weeks after blooming. This is in order 
to mature the bulbs. A good sign is to watch the foliage and when it begins to turn 
brown dig at once. After the tops are cut off, close to the bulb, dry the bulbs in the air in 
trays or boxes. It is best not to allow the sun to shine directly on them while drying. 
After 2 or 3 weeks of drying the old bulb and roots can then be removed. DO NOT re- 
move the husks as this protects the bulb during storage. 
STORAGE—After drying, the bulbs should be stored in screen bottom trays or boxes in 
the coolest place available. They must not be exposed to freezing temperatures. The 
ideal storage temperature is 38 to 45 degrees. Bulbs should not be placed too deeply in 
the boxes as they need air while in storage. 
When you get ready to store your bulbs be sure to give them a light dusting of 5% DDT. 
This will eliminate any danger of thrips feeding on your bulbs during storage period. 
Glads are easy to grow and anyone, even a beginner, can grow the finest show flowers! 
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