Making the New Lawn 
Unlike the annual flower garden or vegetable garden 
and most farm crops, which complete their life cycle in 
one year, the lawn is a permanent crop and as such must 
have the best possible soil medium established before 
the lawn is planted. The ideal lawn soil is a reasonably 
light sandy loam through which both water and air can 
move quite readily. 
FIRST. MODIFY POOR SOIL AT START 
It is impossible to completely modify a poor soil once 
a lawn is established. Where the soil is heavy lacking 
in organic matter), as is the case in most of Westchester 
County and vicinity, humus or peat moss and probably 
coarse sharp sand too, will be needed to correct this con- 
dition. Spread these uniformly over the area and in- 
corporate into the soil with a power rotary tiller to the 
depth of 6 inches. 
SECOND. FERTILIZATION AND LIME 
The need for lime can be quickly determined by a soil 
test. Most soils in this area are acid in reaction. Phos- 
phate is absolutely necessary as this is the root growing 
element and this can be supplied from superphosphate 
or bone meal. Nitrogen is the growth element and is 
almost always deficient in lawn soils. We prefer to 
supply this in an organic form such as that supplied in 
Mitoreanite. If potash is a factor, this too can be 
supplied with muriate of potash. Any fertilizer com- 
bination such as our AGRostTorooD, 7-7-7 or 5-10-5 may 
be used. 
THIRD. GRADING 
An entirely smooth surface must be accomplished by 
raking and lightly rolling. Where ridges and depressions 
appear, repeat the process until a fine, even seed bed 
is established. 
FOURTH. SEEDING 
Four to five pounds of a good seed mixture is adequate 
for 1000 square feet. For even distribution this is best 
applied with a seeder or spreader. When seeding is com- 
pleted, rake lightly and roll with a moderate weight 
roller. 
FIFTH. WATERING 
Probably more new lawns fail because of the omission 
of water at a critical time than from any other cause. 
We recommend a light watering immediately following 
seeding and at least once a day thereafter, preferably at 
mid-day. Keep this up, unless timely rains fall, until 
the new seed is well germinated. 
6 
To prevent erosion on severe slopes, Erosionet or cheese 
cloth, staked down, will help in getting seed established. 
SIXTH a CULLING 
When the new grass is 214 inches tall, top it off with 
the mower set to cut 2 inches high. When the lawn is 
established never cut closer than one inch, unless the 
lawn is all bent. During the heat of Summer a higher 
cut of 11% to 2 inches is recommended. 

















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GRADING RAKE. This wooden rake, 
consisting of 28 teeth and 3 aluminum 
bows is the best tool for leveling and 
making a finished grade. $1.75. 
EROSIONET. This is a strong open mesh fabric that 
will hold seed firmly in place and help prevent wash- 
outs. Grass will grow up through the mesh and soon 
cover it so that it cannot be seen, and it will eventually 
disintegrate. It is 45 inches wide and sells for 25c. 
per lineal yard. 
MIDGET FENCE. To help protect the new lawn from 
intruding feet, we have a Midget fencing for $1.89 
that consists of 6 stakes and 60 feet of cord. 
For other fencing, see page 6 
HYPER-HUMUS 
The perfect soil amendment to supply valuable organic 
matter to heavy compacted soils. Hyper-Humus is a fine 
rich, black cultivated humus. It is long-lasting in the 
soil and ready for immediate use. Hyper-Humus is clean, 
sweet and free from weed seeds. Use one yard of Hyper- 
Humus to each 300 to 400 square feet of area, thoroughly 
tilled into the existing surface. For prices see page 14, 
