How to Grow Glads From Bulbs 
The gladiolus can be, and should be, a summer-long flower producer in your 
garden. No bulb is so productive of truly spectacular color display — none nearly as 
economical to use — none are easier to grow and require as little gardening skill. Since 
they produce their flower spike on a very definite time schedule from date of planting, 
by planting your bulbs successively through the spring months, color can be depended 
upon from the development of the first spike until killing frost. Here in Oregon we 
plant as soon as the rains permit — varying from late February until mid-April — and 
continue plantings at 2 week intervals until July 1. These late June plantings produce 
their flower spikes in late September until frosts, which usually occur here in mid October. 
The planting requirements for fine flower bloom are most simple. They will grow 
successfully on any type of ground that can grow vegetable plants. While they prefer 
soil slightly on the acid side, they produce splendid bloom even in soil that is definitely 
alkaline. They develop best in full sun, with the same cultivation that you would give 
beans or carrots or sweet corn. Water only enough to keep the plants growing (in 
sections of average rainfall this means little or none) until the plants have developed 
their fifth leaf, but from the appearance of this leat liberal supplies of water will increase 
the height of the spike ond the floret size. Compost is the ideal plant food. Bone meal 
is excellent. Use commercial fertilizers sparingly, and not at all unless you are prepared 
to water liberally. An excess of nitrogen will actually delay blooming and stimulates 
scab and other fungus infections. If you plant bulbs of large and medium sizes, fertilizers 
do not seem to increase the quality of the spike, however they may assist in production 
of a larger bulb for the succeeding year if applied just as the bloom is fading. 
Planting depth is preferably 4 to 6 inches. Shallower plantings will bloom earlier 
but spikes may topple over unless staked. Deeper plantings assist in permitting the 
spikes to remain erect. Planting distance can be as close as twice the diameter of the 
bulb. While 6 inches is preferable if spikes are to be left uncut for garden color, they 
may be planted closer if desired for cutting. 
In cutting for the house, this may be done as soon as the first floret is opening. 
All Gladland superior varieties will then open to the very tip bud in water — although 
varieties differ markedly in the number of florets that will remain open without wilting. 
This information is given for nearly every variety in our catalog description, as is also 
the approximate time required to produce bloom after planting. In order not to affect 
the development of the bulb, the most effective method of leaving sufficient leafage to 
develop and mature the bulb and still obtain a spike of maximum stem length, is to 
insert the sharp point of a knife through the leaf sheath into the stem at a point about 
8 inches above the ground. If you will then twist the stem gently but firmly it separates 
at the point of entry of the knife blade and can be pulled through the sheath leaving 
all of the main feeding leaves intact. 
After the plant has bloomed — unless the foliage has been killed earlier by frost — 
the new bulb which forms above the one planted will be ripened enough to dig in from 
4 to 6 weeks. In any case dig BEFORE the foliage is completely brown. Cut the old stem 
off immediately, when dug, with a rose or pruning shears as close to the bulb as possible. 
If bulb is muddy when dug, wash immediately and then dry as quickly as possible. 
Thru the late summer and early fall the bulbs will cure nicely if soread out on garage or 
attic floor, or in basement if there is good air circulation. In two or more weeks the 
bulbs will be sufficiently cured that the old bulb and roots will snap off easily, leaving - 
a clean scar base Bulbs may then be stored in a dry, cool place until time for planting. 
Small quantities may be stored in paper bags, WITH TOPS LEFT OPEN for air circulation. 
Larger lots may be stored in onion sacks or mesh bottomed trays. Preserve the bulblets 
if you wish to develop for yourself new young bulbs. (Read article ‘How to Grow Glads 
From Bulblets.”) 
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