METHODS OF TRANSPLANTING 
Strawberry plants are transplanted successfully in many 
ways and with a variety of tools. The important considera- 
tion is that the roots be well fanned out, not bunched, in a 
deep, wide hole or trench, with the plant at the height at 
which it orginally grew. A small spade cr garden trowel is 
very satisfactory for hand setting in small lots, and for larg- 
er patches we have found that the machine transplanter does 
a very excellent job. 
Just don’t get in a hurry to get the work 
done. You have every reason to expect a 
practically perfect stand if the work is prop- 
_ erly done at the right time. You will notice, 
_-if you look carefully, how the new root growth 
- develops. Little white active roots appear 
along the old root system to tide the plant 
over the transplanting until the new large 
roots appear from the crown. and the old root 
system dies. 
Clipping the ends of the roots makes little difference in 
growth, and we do this regularly when the length of the 
roots on large plants interferes with putting them straight 
in the ground without bunching. 
CULTIVATION 
Cultivation should start soon after the plants are set, and 
continue throughout the growing seascn. Any of the many 
good cultivators found on most farms will do most of the 
work if used often enough, but hoeing is indispensable. Not 
only should the weeds be kept out, but a mulch should be 
maintained and the soil not allowed to crust around the 
plants | : 
_ In dry seasons it is often necessary to imbed the runners 
in the damp underneath soil to enable them to take root ear- 
ly and develop a good root system. The first runners should 
be encouraged to take root, for they will make the largest 
and heaviest plants, and do best in the next fruiting season. 
‘All blossoms should be clipped cff in the new patch as 
soon as they are well formed, and from everkearers until 
the plant is thoroughly established about July 1. 
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