SPECIAL OFFER B 
MEDIUM HEIGHT 
HARDY CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
Avalanche—white 
Charles Nye—buttercup yellow 
Carnival orange red 
Courageous—ruby red 
Chris Columbus—white 
Yellow Avalanche—pale yellow 
Heatherbloom—pink 
Lavender Lady—lavender 
Betty—pink 
Cliff Runyan—orange 
Tiffany Rose—rose 
Dawn Rose—salmon 
1 each of above 12 varieties for $4.50 

SPECIAL OFFER C 
TALL VARIETIES OF 
HARDY CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
HAVING LARGE FLOWERS 
Symphony—pink 
Gold Standard—yellow 
Ermine—white, yellow centre 
Winterset—white 
Defiance—pale yellow 
Huntsman—red 
1 plant each of above 6 varieties for $2.25 
24 labeled ares age of offer A-B-C for 
MUM ROOTED CUTTINGS are well rooted 
in sand. They have not been grown into the 
larger, huskier plants. However they stand 
shipment well and may be planted upon ar- 
rival. Water well at planting. Rooted cuttings 
of all mums except new varieties are priced 
only in lots of 3 or more of each variety. 
3 of one variety for $.90 
PLANT MUMS. May 15th to June 15th. 
Plant in rows, beds or in borders about 18 
inches apart. They require very little care. A 
handful of bonemeal or well recommended fer- 
tilizer to each plant mixed well with the soil 
at planting time; then again on top, raked in, 
at budding time. 
They will produce a beautiful display of flowers 
over a satisfactory period of weeks during the 
early or late Autumn. For still greater pro- 
fusion of bloom, pinch out the tender tip of 
each plant in June; again pinch out about the 
15th of July, this time several or many tender 
tips. Most of the large varieties, can by dis- 
budding, be made to produce much more beau- 
tiful and much larger flowers, some as large 
as four to five inches. 

WINTERING OF MUMS 
Most successful hardy mum growers do not 
cover the plants during the winter. A cold 
winter with snow and no thawing would be 
ideal for hardy mums. In the Ohio Valley and 
most of the middle west however there are 
many mild, wet spells during winter. This kind 
of weather is tough on mums. 
If you cover in winter be sure to use very 
coarse material which will not hold moisture 
or shut off air. Leaves and straw should not be 
used. 
In the SPRING as soon as green growth is 
observed dig up the mum clumps and separate 
each heavy root from the clump, planting it 
by itself where you want it to bloom. This 
will help you to get a broader, more compact 
and not too tall bush. 
If you have a cold frame, it is best to dig 
those mums in the fall that you wish to divide 
and keep them under glass. This is sometimes 
important with English mums. 
HOW TO GROW DAHLIA SEEDLINGS 
It is fascinating to plant Dahlia seed, watch the seedlings develope and bloom 
the first season. You may get almost any color or shape from these seedlings. Any- 
thing is possible: Blooms 12 to 14 inches across or miniatures in all types or even 
tiny pompons. 
About April 15th prepare a rich soil 14 sand, 14 humus, 14 garden soil with 
a handful of fertilizer to each bushel. Screen out all lumps. Plant seed in a flat, cold 
frame, hot bed or box of dirt. Barely cover seed. Water with a fine spray. Do not 
allow soil to dry before seed sprout. Cover on cold days. 
When seedlings show second set of leaves transplant to 214, or 3 in. pots or set 
two to three inches apart in boxes or flats. They must have plenty of sunlight. 
ate ste into garden when all danger of frost is past, 114 to 2 feet apart; water 
well. 
The percentage of desirable seedlings varies with different seasons. In some 
years as many as one-half may show fully double flowers. Seedlings usually make 
a good clump of roots. Dig and save the best ones for dividing and planting next 
spring. Should you have a fine new variety you might want to get in touch with a com- 
mercial grower and have him introduce it for you in its third or fourth year. There 
is always a chance that you might hit the Jack Pot with a new shade of color or a new 
type. Plant standard varieties with your seedlings for comparison. 
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