
Kellogg’s Famous Flowers 

ing it has the sun and drainage. They also require very 
little attention after planting. 
They also will often thrive in soil that is too shallow for 
other favorite garden flowers. By shallow soil, we refer to the 
fertile part. If the part containing fertile soil is only one 
foot deep, the soil is said to be only one foot deep. 
For example, you may have a piece of ground with a fertile 
depth of only one foot, and with a gravel sub-soil under- 
neath. Or, one only six or eight inches deep. Here you can 
grow Poppies, as the gravel will provide the necessary drain- 
age. In fact, the soil would be almost ideal, though not suit- 
able for such plants as Peonies, because of its shallowness. 
But, if your sub-soil should be an impervious hard-pan or 
heavy clay, which would not permit drainage, then you 
might have difficulty with Poppies. 
FERTILIZING POPPIES: Commercial fertilizers can be 
used with considerable success. Apply them in the spring, 
after growth has appeared, on top of the soil, and not too 
close to the plants. A 4-8-4 or 5-10-5, or similar formula can 
be used. Next, rake the fertilizer in; or use some other suit- 
able garden tool. 
About 11% lbs. of commercial fertilizer per 100 square feet 
is right. Or, measure out a ration of about 2 lbs. per 100 
square feet, then apply only 4 Ib. at a time, and at intervals 
of about 10 days, until the ration is used. Work in each 
time. More fertilizer can be used by this measured-ration 
method. 
Another way to fertilize Poppies is to work in well-rotted 
stable manure at soil preparation time. 2 to 3 bushels of 
well-rotted manure per 100 square feet would be about 
right. Other animal fertilizers, if well-rotted can also be 
used. But, do not use chicken manure. 
You can also mulch with stable manure after the first freeze 
the first autumn, but that would be for the first year only. 
Poppies will not require mulching thereafter. 
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How To Plant Poppies 
After the soil has been prepared for planting, either with 
fertilizer mixed in or without, make a hole deep enough 
and wide enough to accommodate the roots easily. Set the 
roots vertically, top up, as in picture above. There will 
usually be some signs of green growth at the top, but if it 
appears to you that the plant has roots on both ends, the 
end with the most roots is the bottom. Better make the hole 
oversize than undersize. In any event, you are loosening the 
soil when you make the hole oversize, and accordingly the 
roots will have a better chance to start growth and develop. 
Never plant in a hole so small that the roots must be bent. 
Planting Distance: 12 to 18 inches. 
Planting Depth. The top of the plants should be just below 
the surface of the ground. One inch of soil is easily sufficient. 
After the plants are set, water the entire bed of Poppies 
[29] 

And How To Grow Them 

thoroughly. Soak them in well, and they will have the best 
chance to bloom their best for you. 
After the first freeze in the fall, you can give your Poppies 
a light mulching. Use straw or peat moss; or marsh hay is 
good; and leaves are suitable if used very lightly, but may 
smother the plants if applied too heavily. 
This mulching is necessary the first year only. Poppies are 
exceedingly hardy, and will come through most any winter 
unscathed. 
TIME TO PLANT: Set your Poppies just as soon as you 
receive them from the nursery. Nurseries dig Poppies as 
early as possible, and will likely ship early, usually in Sep- 
tember. Early planting will give the roots a chance to de- 
velop before the ground freezes. 
Poppies can also be planted in the very early spring, but 
your first planting should be made in the fall, as most nur- 
series do not furnish Poppies in the spring. With spring 
planting, you will not have blooms the same year unless you 
use large, well established plants. 
If you are transplanting your own plants from one part of 
your bed to another, do it in August. Do not, however, trans- 
plant any oftener than necessary, and then only after the 
foliage is dead. Water in thoroughly. A clump of earth on 
the roots is not necessary. 
PLANTING SYSTEM: Poppies usually look best in groups, 
with a contrasting background. The brightly colored flow- 
ers will show up beautifully against a dark background. 

It is also well to plant Poppies where the dead foliage will 
be hidden by other plants in August and September. Or 
you can set other plants in the spaces between Poppies, to 
hide the dead foliage, as shown in drawing above. Annuals 
are best for this purpose. Poppies are not good for isolated 
plantings, because the foliage does become unsightly after 
blooming is over. 
SUMMER CARE: After the foliage of Poppies is completely 
dry and dead, remove it. It breaks very easily by hand. 
Cultivation is not necessary. In fact, Poppies do not like to 
be disturbed, and cultivation can be detrimental. Just keep 
the weeds pulled. A summer mulch of peat moss about 2 
inches deep is the best weed control, especially if sterilized. 
It also retains moisture in the soil, taking the place of cul- 
tivation. But some weed pulling may still be necessary. Pull 
weeds with as little disturbance to the Poppies as possible. 
And, if watering is one of your hobbies, here’s where you 
can indulge it. Poppies love lots of water, and you can 
water to your heart’s content. 
(Continued on page 32) 

