
COLE M, TESA 
AOA AIGA A Re 


And How To Grow Them 

blooms. They can be mulched each fall after 
the first freeze, with good rich, well-rotted 
manure, but this is more of a fertilizing pro- 
cess than winter protection, as the Iris are 
quite hardy and will usually come through. 
THEY SHOULD BE DIVIDED every three 
or four years, depending on how crowded 
they become. 
Perennials 
Perennials are plants which remain in the 
garden year after year; whereas annuals grow 
from seeds, and are killed by the first frost. 
There is nothing difficult about growing per- 
ennials. Just give them good soil, and a rea- 
sonable amount of care. Nearly all of them 
require a fertile soil, and nearly all require 
some sun. 
For success with perennials in general, ob- 
serve the following: 
First, prepare the soil well. Work it deeply, 
and eliminate lumps as completely as pos- 
sible. Do this to a depth of 10 to 15 inches, 
and if this brings you down to the non-fertile 
subsoil, you can greatly increase your chances 
for outstanding success as follows: 
First remove the top soil completely, then 
spade up the subsoil, and work in well-rotted 
stable manure, or other well-rotted animal 
fertilizer. Do not use chicken manure, how- 
ever. You are now ready to replace your top 
soil. 
It is usually best not to mix manure directly 
into the top soil, but you will usually benefit, 
it by mixing in peat moss. Peat moss he 
retain moisture, prevents baking, and s 
as a digestive, helping the plant absor 
fertility already in the soil. 
Carnations and Dianthus in general do not 
like peat moss, or acid soil; therefore, if you 
are preparing the soil for them, omit the peat 
moss. 
Do not place manure next to the roots. Take 
your time in planting, and make the open- 
ing in the soil large enough and deep enough 
so that the roots can go straight down, and 
have room to spread. Do not crowd the roots. 
Now press the soil firmly against the roots, 
using your feet around the plants. This elim- 
inates air pockets, which would cause the 
roots to dry out, and the plants to die. 
After the plants are set, water them thorough- 
ly. And we mean thoroughly. An hour or 
more once every three or four days is far 
better than a little sprinkle every day. 
WINTER PROTECTION: After you finish 
planting your perennials in the fall, give 
them a light mulch. Straw or coarse stable 
manure is best. Do not use leaves unless you 
provide some method for keeping them from 
packing down; otherwise they will smother 
the plants. 
Mulch after the first freeze. Mulching keeps 
the ground from alternately freezing and 
thawing, which process is really the cause of 
winter injury. Plants can stand rather severe 
cold, if the ground does not heave. 
(Continued on page 36) 











Blooming 
WMiutature 
This group will bloom from early spring until fall. Note: One 
spring-bloomer, Pigwiggen, white, included to give full color range. 
The others bloom both spring nad fall. 

LIEWT. CHAVAGNAC. A 
vely miniature. Blooms spring 
nd fall, rich violet color. 



Money Saver 
Two each of the varieties 
PIGWIGGEN. Spring-bloom- at the lett 
ing. So cunningly piggy-like . 
that we named it Pigwiggen. 
Very clean, pure white color- 





eight in all. 
ND. Bright yellow, 
undantly in the fall. 
n the others. 
TAMPA. Rich wine-red; many 
flowers in early spring, also in 
fall. 
PRICES 
1 for $0.40 4 for $1.15 
QT Ot ees .0) 8 for 2.15 | 
Be ict O0 12° fore Sel) 


Early Spring Miniatures 
We send you 1 rhizome each of the following varieties: (1) Glee, soft 
yellow; (2) Fauntleroy, white, purple and yellow; (3) Black Bird, dark 
violet; (4) Rose Mist, soft, mauve-pink; (5) Snowcap, white. 
PRICES: High-Grade Rhizomes, 5 for 97c; 10 for $1.88; 20 for $3.69. 


R. M. Kellogg Co. 
Three Rivers, Mich. 
[35] 
