The best temperature now is not over 50°. The bulbs must have sufficient 
time to form a good root system under these conditions. If placed in a warm 
room and exposed to the sun, top growth will be made before roots, and the 
results are poor flowers or none. 
When you are sure that roots have formed, but not before, water the 
plants as directed with (or without) Vit. B-1. But be sure to leave the bulbs 
a sufficient length of time in a cool room. They need this period of dormancy 
and sufficient time to make a good root system. Many fail because they try 
to force bulbs before they have rested and have made good roots. If you get 
a poor flower it may be because the bulb had no roots and had only the sus- 
tenance stored in the bulb from which to make flowers. Lack of a good root 
system to nourish the flower will affect the quality of the flower in every 
way—Size, substance and even color. So, don’t remove pots from the cool room 
too soon. Wait until they demand it by top growth. Then bring the pots by 
easy Stages to a temperature of 60°, then about 65°. Day time temp. should 
never be much over 70° for the best blooming. 
After flowering the bulb has shrunk and a long period of growth is 
necessary. If good growth is made at this important stage, the bulb will be- 
come much larger and offsets may be made. Keep them growing as long as 
possible. When the weather is warm outside the pots may be plunged in the 
garden. If rim of pot is sufficiently below soil surface the roots may emerge 
and add range to the root system. Or better still, shift the bulb and the un- 
broken lump of soil to the garden. Water liberally during growth and when in 
good growth use manure water or mulch with manure. This is good advice 
for pot grown bulbs as well, but don’t give heavy feeding to a sick or starved 
bulb. Plants, animals and people must have enough vigor to digest and 
assimilate food. If they do not have this, it becomes a poison. 
Keep the bulbs growing as long as they will grow. When the foliage 
begins to yellow, about Nov. usually, one may reduce water, and give them a 
rest. Store pots in a cool room as for starting. 
Usually the summer’s growth will have increased the size of the bulbs 
sufficiently to require shifting to a larger pot. The new pot should be large 
enough to accommodate all the roots. Do not remove or injure any of the 
roots and contrive to distribute them thruout the soil. 
When repotted, water at once to settle soil around the roots. Thereafter 
repeat the procedure followed when you planted the dry bulbs. But your 
bulbs are now much better bulbs. They are not dried out and they have or 
should have many roots. If kept too wet or too warm while dormant, the 
roots may rot. But if you handle the bulbs carefully you may expect more, 
larger and better flowers the second year. With experience you may become 
skillful in having flowers even by Jan. 1 and others up to May 1. 
I am frequently asked why the inquirer’s bulbs do not flower. Perhaps 
they have flowered the first year after their purchase but not thereafter. 
Some state their bulbs become smaller each year. These results inevitably 
follow wrong culture. Flowers in the spring are sure to result if good growth 
was made in the preceding period. If you have trouble in getting good growth 
in pots, be sure to try shifting to the garden after flowering. 
There is no such thing as the Red Fire Disease of Amaryllis. Nor is it 
“ketching.” The red pigment or rust results from decay of the Amaryllis 
tissue of any part of the plant. It is the normal reaction of the Amaryllis 
tissue to any injury or bruise and may be caused by one’s shoes, garden tools, 
cut worms or other insect bites, sunburn or frost, cloddy or gravelly soil, too 
great acidity of the soil, contact with soil sulphur or chemical fertilizer or 
even too much fresh manure. It often appears in a very mild form in stored 
bulbs as the result of decay or oxidation of the outer tunic of the bulb. 
None of these things are of grave importance. Even a healthy man 
may sneeze. 
But when a bulb is really sick the red rust is excessively produced and 
this symptom should not be overlooked. +5 
Check on pot drainage, soil, and all conditions. 
When a bulb is infested with narcissus fly, dig out the grubs and coat 
wounds with tree seal and replant. Do not treat Amaryllis wounds with 
sulphur. It is too acid and is therefore a poison. 
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