and you will not lose priority on the scarce varieties. Incidentally, we can send 
you 25 celluloid labels for 75c. 
THE GESNARIA FAMILY — Gesneriaceae 
In this family belong Gloxinias, Achimines and Saintpaulias. 
Gloxinias really belong to the genus Sinningia and are hybrids developed 
from S. speciosa. This species was introduced before 1817 and named Gloxinia 
speciosa. A few years later botanists discovered the error but the name Glox- 
inia will always be applied by gardeners to these popular tuberous plants. 
The true botanical Gloxinias make no tubers. They are not florist’s flowers 
and are not offered in catalogues but Sinningias will always be called Glox- 
inias and we use the name here. 
Gloxinias are natives of Brazil, a warm tropical climate, which gives a key 
to their culture. Probably most failures result from trying to start them or 
grow them in cold rooms. They are ideal plants for your greenhouse or a 
warm room in the house. 
The bell shaped flowers, originally purple, have been developed into 
shades of red, pink, purple and white in many variations. Some are blotched, 
spotted or sprinkled with darker colors. All are very rich and beautiful. The 
foilage too is rich and exotic in appearance and the plants would be worth 
cultivating for the foliage alone. It is of soft velvety texture, glowing with 
almost metallic tints, a rich green marked by gray and white. 
Every month of the year we receive requests for Gloxinia tubers. They 
can only be had from Jan. to about April. We usually sell out by March. Later 
one must pay more and buy plants. We do not list plants because they cannot 
be sent long distances. Plants thus received are not very satisfactory. I advise 
you to buy tubers, early. 
How to Grow Gloxinias. Pot the tubers in Feb. or Mar. April plantings will 
do well, if you can get the tubers. We expect to have them as late as April but 
a few sorts may be sold out. Cover the tubers lightly. The tubers must be 
stored in a warm room, packed in dry sand or peat, not exposed to the air or 
to moisture. Storage temperature, about 55°. 
Our tubers may be set in 5” pots. Read our Potting Directions on a previ- 
ous page. A good soil is one-third each of peat, rich fibrous loam and sand. 
If the loam is low in humus, combine it with well rotted leaf mould that has 
been rubbed thru a 4%” mesh screen. 
We have grown Gloxinias successfully by this method but even more suc- 
cessfully in pure peat and sphagnum by the method described as the “Houdy- 
shel Method” under Caladiums. Even with out feeding, we have seen Gloxinias 
grown in peat and sphagnum double in diameter in one season. Caladiums, 
Gloxinias and Achimines are acid loving. Any alkaline soil used in potting 
these may bring grief. 
A good starting and growing temperature is 60° at night and about 70° 
day time. A little higher during the day will not hurt them and in the summer 
when in full growth the temperatures nature provides will be higher. Some 
successful growers advise full shade for Gloxinias but some advise a south 
window and much sunshine. The best practice is probably between these ex- 
tremes. Fortunately the plants will tell us when pleased. A stocky, vigorous, 
blooming plant is situated correctly. A leggy sprangling plant is receiving 
too little sun. 
Keep them moist, not soggy, when starting. When in good growth they 
require abundant moisture and high humidity of the air. Cold air currents 
must not strike the plants. Protect always from wind and drafts. It is better 
to use tepid water for watering the starting tubers and the plants in winter. 
One is usually advised to keep water off of the leaves but when properly 
shaded we have never had a spotted leaf and we water with a hose but avoid 
wetting foliage very much. 
Altho very few of our customers blame their bulbs when an occasional 
failure results, they do sometimes ask me why nine bulbs grew and one did 
not. Since long-distance diagnosis is impossible, I tell you here more definitely 
than most books on bulb culture, the conditions necessary for success. The 
average amateur will be able to succeed. But if you overwater when starting 
the tubers, allow the temperature to go down to 55°, 50°, 40° or 34° a few times 
at 
