GROWING FLOWERS FROM SEEDS 
All culture letters in the flower seed listings refer to the direc- 
tions given below. Please follow them carefully to be certain of | 
good results. Where two or more letters are given, choose the 
one that you can most easily and accurately use; however note 
carefully information under all letters given for any particular © 
flower as some indicate planting dates and other special require- 
ments, 
(A) Sow in the bed, border or row where the plants are to 
grow. The soil should be loamy, full of humus to the extent that 
it will easily pulverize; not dry out readily and crack. Make 
certain that you have good topsoil, not fill-in from the basement 
excavation. A load or two of good top soil hauled in and well 
fortified with humus—leaf mold, peat moss or well rotted ma- 
nure; may mean the difference between pride of accomplishment 
and envying your neighbors’ more attractive flower bed. Nearly all 
flowers do well in sunny locations; see page 89 for list of those 
that do well in partial shade. 
Spade to a depth of 6 inches, pulverize and rake smooth. Plant 
in rows or broadeast the seed, Cover lightly to a depth four or five 
times the seed’s diameter. Very small seeds may be merely pressed 
into the soil with a flat board and a very little soil and pulverized 
sphagnum or peat moss sprinkled over them. Larger seeds may be 
planted singly, well covered, but more thickly than plants are 
wanted. Firm the soil well over the seed, Watering now becomes 
of great importance. At no time should the soil be allowed to be- 
come hard and dry, yet excessive watering may cause the seed to 
rot, sour the soil, or cause ‘‘damping off.’’ Use a fine spray that 
will not wash out the seed. When the plants appear, thin them out, 
allowing each to grow singly, without crowding. The distance be- 
tween them is governed by their ultimate size and spread. Excess 
plants may usually be moved to a new location. 
Cultivate shallowly so as to not damage roots. Crinkle Plant 
Covers (page 80) set close together over the seed row will give 
protection and force growth of plants. 
(B) Sow in outdoor seed bed, to be transplanted. Same as (A) 
except bed should be not over six feet wide for easy tending and 
always sow seed in rows. Cold frame as described on page 7 will 
do nicely. Place in full sun, protect from winds and, in the case 
of perennial seedlings, provide a lath or cloth canopy for shade 
during heat of summer. This should be removable in damp and 
cloudy weather. Seedlings may be transplanted when they make 
true leaves, that is, when the second pair of leaves appear; or 
they may be left until larger before being moved to their perma- 
nent location, Perennials should be moved from the seed bed to 
a nursery row, to grow until fall before being moved to their 
permanent location. 
(C) Sow in cold frame or deep wooden soil-filled box (buried 
to within 6 or 8 inches of top to form simple cold frame). This 
method is used for slow germinating seed, some of which require 
months to sprout. Plant as in (B) preparing soil as in (A). De- 
scription of cold frame is given on page 7. Place in a shaded loca- 
tion, where there is free air circulation. During the spring, sum- 
mer and fall, water often enough to prevent soil from drying out. 
A mulch of peat or pulverized sphagnum moss will help retain 
moisture. In winter to afford protection, cover with leaves. Have 
patience with slow germinating subjects; do not disturb too. 
quickly. Any live seed will eventually grow if given time enough; 
provided soil, moisture supply, etc., are right. When seedlings 
appear and make true leaves, transplant to pots, nursery row or 
permanent location. If moss forms on soil surface, sprinkle fresh 
earth over top. 
(D) Sow indoors in boxes or flats (pictured top page 3). These 
should be of convenient size and about 3 inches deep. The soil used 
should be composed of about equal parts of leaf mold, sharp sand — 
(Continued on page 111) 

110 D. V. Burrell Seed Growers Co., Rocky Ford, Colo. 

