2 KAYLOR NURSERIES, LAKEWOOD, WASH, 

The Honeymoon 
With high priced glads is over. During 
the war commercial growers made some 
money. Even poorly grown bulbs of low 
quality brought good prices. Ax lot wor 
“Johnny - Come - Latelies” got into the 
game. Many were without experience in 
either cultural practices or cost finding 
systems. Poor quality products can weak- 
en any market for even the best of goods 
and prices drop. Old established and ex- 
perienced growers have been forced to 
meet this competition with lower prices. 
Based on cost of production, you, the 
consumers, have never been able to buy 
so much for so little as this year. Watch 
out for “cheap” bulbs..Buy only from es- 
tablished growers who issue a price list. 
How to Grow Glads 
Our experience covers’ twenty-four 
years as commercial growers. Ever since 
that first year we have devoted a lot of 
time to the study of plant diseases. The 
experience of other growers has_ been 
studied. We do not believe any expe- 
rienced grower will claim to have found 
a solution to the problem, but we also 
believe, this nursery comes as near to 
the answer as anyone in the business. At 
least we have never had any trouble 
from thrips and have kept disease down 
to a minimum. 
Surely we will tell you how we have 
done it. First to be considered is soil. 
Ours is of glacial formation, on a bench 
about 300 ft. above tide mark. We fol- 
_ low a rotation with at least six years be- 
tween glad crops. Follow the glads with 
clover for two years. Plow down the sec- 
ond crop and follow with rye which 
should be plowed down the following 
spring. Potatoes can be planted the 
fourth year and harvested in time to 
plant another crop of rye. Plow this 
down and plant sweet corn or some oth- 
er cultivated crop the fifth year. Keep 
the land clean of weeds. Never grow po- 
tatoes, beans or any member of the cab- 
bage family the year preceding the 
glads. We have found both carry growths 
that will hang over and attack the bulbs. 
At planting time we go over our 
small and medium size bulbs—we sel- 
dom plant the large ones—very care- 
fully and cull out any that show signs 
of carried over disease. All planting stock, 
including bulblets, is soaked for at least 
three hours in a bath made by dissolv- 
ing one pint of Supergermite in twenty- 
five gallons of water. You can use two 
tablespoons of Lysol in three gallons of 
water and get the same result. Bulbs are 

planted while still wet, the depth of 
planting being three times the greatest 
diameter of the bulbs. The trenches are 
partly filled and the ground sprinkled 
with enough Vigoro to make it good and 
pink. Fill up the trenches and a few 
days later start the cultivator. Last year 
we used a Merrytiller, made at Edmonds, 
Wash., and found it the best cultivator 
we have ever used. Keep the cultivator. 
going—it is most important. = 
As the plants grow’ a constant wateh 
is kept for any that turn yellow or ap- 
pear weak. They, with the mother bulb, 
are removed and burned. Sanitation ‘is 
most important in holding down dis- 
ease and all old bulbs, tops, stems and 
leaves should be burned. 
-Harvest as early as possible. This 
means October in our fields. The bulbs 
are lifted with a five-tine hand spud dig- 
ger. Tops are cut off with butcher knives 
over the edge of a pickup box into which 
the bulbs drop. They are washed in 
screen bottom trays, the - trays then 
placed in a vat containing a solution 
made up the same as for preplanting 
treatment. One minute in this bath and 
the trays are spread out so the water 
can drain off, after which they are 
stacked up in the dry house. Tempera- 
ture here is kept at not more than sev- 
enty degrees with electric fans forcing 
a constant circulation of air through. the 
trays. 
As soon as the old bulbs will slip off 
they are removed and burned. While 
still damp the new bulbs are placed in 
the duster where they receive a coating 
of disinfectant made by mixing one part 
dry lime-sulphur, one part Fermate and 
two parts dusting sulphur. Dust is shak- 
en off and trays are again stacked be- 
fore the blower for final drying. The dust 
coats the damp basal plates of the new 
bulbs and prevents entrance of disease 
organisms as well as hastening drying. 
Grading is done by hand, our experience 
being that machine work in cleaning and 
grading bruises the bulbs. 
Lots of work? Sure it is lots of work 
‘and some of the experts will say the 
dusting is unnecessary. O. K. with us, 
but those who buy our bulbs like the 
results and tell their friends which cuts 
down our advertising expense, and above 
all, gives us a feeling that we have con- 
tributed to the pleasure of others. 
Screen bottom trays are made 18 by 30 
inches with galvanized fly screen for 
bottoms. Copper screen will be better if 
you can stand the expense. The trays 
have three inch high sides and ends with 
six inch pegs in the corners. You do not 
need racks, as trays can be stacked any- 

