A FEW SIMPLE SUGGESTIONS RELATIVE TO 
GLADIOLUS CULTURE 
1. SOIL. The gladiolus is not choosey. Any good soil for vegetables is 
good for glads. 
2. LOCATION. Keep away from buildings, fences, trees, hedges and 
shade of all kinds. Give the glad full sunshine, well drained soil, and reason- 
ably loose ground. 
3. SOIL PREPARATION. The same as for any garden stuff. 
4. PREPARATION OF BULBS AND BULBLETS. It is not necessary to 
remove the husks before planting. Do not plant a diseased bulb, or one that 
is scrawny. Plant only healthy, solid bulbs. 
5. PLANTING. In light soil plant about six inches deep. Five inches is 
deep enough in heavy soil. Of course they will grow in shallow planting, 
but are more likely to blow over, and will not withstand a drought as well as 
in deep planting. Space large bulbs about two to the foot, and space rows 
to suit cultivation convenience. Plant bulblets in trenches two inches deep, 
sow thickly in the row, and cultivate often. 
6. FERTILIZING. Do not over fertilize. That is easily done. Ordinary 
good vegetable soil is good enough for glads. If you want to grow show spikes 
consult a grower who shows. There is nothing better than well rotted barn- 
yard manure. Glads need lots of humus in the soil. 
%. CULTIVATION. No plant is more appreciative of good cultivation, 
or more responsive, than the glad. Keep the soil loose after every rain, and 
constantly loose during drought periods, Do not sprinkle—if you apply water 
at all, give the ground a deep soaking, then when dry enough cultivate. Do 
this about once a week or ten days in drought for best results. 
8. FIELD OBSERVATIONS. Keep your eyes open for lost labels, dis- 
eased plants (those turning yellow and dying), and strays (pull them out). 
9. CUTTING AND CURING THE CUT FLOWERS. Best to cut early in 
the morning, and place them in a cool place deep in water for a few hours. 
They continue to open out better if the spikes are occasionally cut back an 
inch or so on the slant, and given fresh water. The tip ends of the spikes may 
be cut short and put in shallow bowls and thus make a beautiful center piece 
for the table. 
10. DIGGING. It is better to dig while the foliage is green, as one can 
then determine the diseased plants and throw them out. The bulbs also lift 
out of the ground better than when the tops have died. Cut the tops off 
immediately when dug as close to the bulb as is possible. Let the bulbs dry 
in shallow boxes, not over three inches deep, in an airy, cool place, then re- 
move the old bulbs, roots and bulblets. This we call “cleaning.” 
11. STORAGE CARE. Storage care is about the most important part of 
producing healthy, disease-free glads. The bulbs should be thoroughly dried 
as rapidly as possible after digging. Within four to six weeks they should be 
cleaned. By that we mean, the old bulbs are removed, the dirt sifted out, 
and the bulblets taken care of. When cleaned they are then ready for the 
winter storage. The storage should have ventilation to prevent mildewing 
and the development of diseases. There are several serious diseases which 
develop largely in storage conditions if they are not right. Air circulation 
has much to do with the suppression of disease. The temperature should be 
as nearly 35 to 40 degrees as is possible, altho they will keep nicely in much 
higher temperatures. They must be protected against the temperature drop- 
ping below 32 degrees, as freezing destroys the eyes, and causes the bulb to 
soften and rot. Too high temperatures are not good as they hasten sprout- 


“Friends in Iowa gave me your address saying that you had such wonder- 
ful glads. So I am sending you an order for 200, with check enclosed.” 
(Missouri) 
“A friend of mine has recommended your glads and loaned me her cata- 
logue. Will you please send me the following bulbs.” (Iowa) 
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